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M10 cylinder head re-torquing


ranjag
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Hey folks .. I recently rebuilt my engine and got it running a few weeks ago and have got the engine up to temperature a few times now. Was wondering if I need to re- torque the cylinder head bolts now that engine has gone through a few heat cycles.

 

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While personally I don't think there's anything wrong with the three stage torque technique, best practice these days is to follow the instructions provided by the gasket manufacturer. No instructions? Three stage. 

 

OE type gaskets use an angular torque technique and don't require retorquing later on. 

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I *ALWAYS* follow the head gasket manufacturer's instructions to the letter. Gasket materials have advanced / changed a great deal in 45 years. BMW's torquing technique applies to factory 1970-something gaskets. Most professional BMW techs prefer Elring over Reinz head gaskets. I went with Elring because I don't want to do it twice. :)

 

FWIW: Most modern gasket manufacturers recommend angle torquing (usually as follows: initial torque, angle, second angle, heat cycle for 20 -40 minutes, angle again)

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As always, I'm the exception that speaks up.  Screw the angle torque method.  I did it all exactly correct on my freshly rebuilt engine, and 300 miles later it worked loose and blew the headgasket between two cylinders.  It needed re-torqued to keep that from happening, but there's no good way to do that with the angle method.

I went back to three stage old way, and re-torqueing after a couple hundred miles.  That method never failed me before.    

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2 hours ago, mike said:

I didn't know there were angle torquing instructions/procedures applicable to our M10 engines.  I thought that was specifically for the later engines with head bolts that were meant to stretch when torqued, and weren't re-usable.  Can someone please elucidate?

 

mike

 

58f4dd5c1d3ba_VictorReinz_Cylinderheadgasket-1.thumb.jpg.f41296f20c6fb617c4b5ad22076ad535.jpg58f4dd5f14f2f_VictorReinz_Cylinderheadgasket-2.thumb.jpg.999076ecaaba7f6e8e78b0f6cf32427b.jpg

 

See section 4 on the following link;

1 hour ago, ranjag said:

Thanks to everyone's input.. I ended up using the Reinz gasket set as it was the only one available from Worldpac up here in Vancouver... now to re-torque do I need to loosen the head bolts and then torque back in three steps .

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Depends on how you torqued the boltsNo. See my post. First loosen bolts slighly, then tighten to final specified torque.

58f4dc5ba3bc9_cylinderhead._1.thumb.PNG.903a236ace877b925bcba59675ca9b75.PNG

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There's also no reason you can't pull an angle- torqued head to 57ft-lbs (or whatever it is) IF you back it off 5 degrees, then make SURE you then go forward at LEAST

5 degrees.  Or 57 ft lbs, whichever comes last!

It's most important to have even pressure on the head- how you get it can vary..

 

But once you have a lot of miles, a retorque may cause more trouble-  I've had it cause an old, brittle gasket to fail.


my experience, anyeay,

t

 

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