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Major over charging issue in '72 02 PLZ HELP!


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Hey guys,

 

i am troubled and frustrated - I replaced my battery and voltage regulator (a nice Beru regulator and fitted autozone battery (Duralast?)) because initially it popped both my headlights and the same time whilst driving in the dark (fortunately my high-beams worked enough to get me home).

i noticed my battery was puffy so that's when I replaced the reg. and bat. And headlights. 

 

This worked for 2 months and then my new battery literally exploded. Terrible egg smell, battery adic instantly corroded my battery tray and radiator. 

 

Once I got the battery out I gave my engine bay a baking soda scrub down and rinsed - fortunately autozone has excellent warranty coverage so I got a free battery and drove my car over to them to check the system- they said my 2 month old beru V-reg was dead and in the 1mi drive over to them it also killed the new battery the just gave me. So I replaced both again (oh yes, my headlights popped again...) 

 

anyways, all said and done, they have me the green light and said all systems were working properly and no over charge was occurring. I drove it for 3 days and low and behold my battery broke AGAIN. 

 

So so now I need help. Wtf is going on? I had my alternator rebuilt 3 years ago and it has never given me this trouble... and you'd think the v-reg would be doing its job but instead it just breaks. 

 

 

(Also, the atlatik automatic sunroof 73 as seen in pics is for sale. $3500 BaT -after rebuilding calipers and replacing master break  cylinder I haven't bled the brakes... and some dummy pushed my break peddle and sucked a bunch of air in the lines. More pics if re-quested)

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Edited by GraysonHaugen
Clarify need for help
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I would buy a new internally regulated alternator and bypass the external regulator, leave it there for looks.  The three wires between the regulator and alternator may be exposed and grounding each other, it's a very common issue, wires get brittle and they are hidden under a plastic sleeve or tape.  Check them out first, good luck.

 

(and buy a new factory positive and negative cable, those look like crap, the positive is an aftermarket kluge)

Edited by HBChris
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2 hours ago, HBChris said:

I would buy a new internally regulated alternator and bypass the external regulator, leave it there for looks.  The three wires between the regulator and alternator may be exposed and grounding each other, it's a very common issue, wires get brittle and they are hidden under a plastic sleeve or tape.  Check them out first, good luck.

 

(and buy a new factory positive and negative cable, those look like crap, the positive is an aftermarket kluge)

Thanks for the quick response HBChris! 

 

I ordered both cables ($80.00!! That was way more than I had expected.) 

 

I'm curious to know if you would recommend a particular alternator with an internal voltage regulator -- any suggestions? 

 

Thanks! 

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I think it's the bungee on the battery, myself.

 

Put a semi- permanent voltmeter on it- if it's blowing things up, it's well over 15v.

 

I too wonder about grounding- for the v reg, the alt case, and the block.  And give the

wires going to the alt a very thorough going- over- as everyone else says, they aren't up

to 50 years of heat and vibration...

 

I like the 320 alternator- but Jenn's car has had a stock, vintage 2002 one and a solid state regulator for going on 20 years, here...

 

t

 

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Data point: I've seen a car where two new Beru voltage regulators (the smaller ones commonly found these days) failed within a few days of install. All wiring was correct, alternator checked and grounded. The fix was to install a 40-year-old used OEM regulator. -KB

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18 hours ago, Buckeye said:

Do you have a ground wire connected from alternator to the oil filter housing or engine block?

Does telltail light in the cluster stays on while engine is running?

It is grounded to the engine block- and I cleaned that contact when I replaced the starter motor- of course it could be a little grimy over two years. No lights in the cluster stay on while the engine is running? They all work properly. 

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New cables in! Grounds checked and cleaned, fresh bungee for those of you who were digging at my ratty old one ;) 

i do have the battery clamp, but there isn't enough room on the tray to use it with the battery I have now. FYI. 

 

Took it to a battery shop and had them check the system- they said everything checked off. Voltage reg is good, battery is good, alternator is good (not a live feed for voltage output but he said it gave him the green light). 

 

I hope the new cables and clean ground is the solution. 

 

If not- I'll be back on here and probably

movint forward with an alternator swap. 

 

Any idea what that thing is on the last photo? A horn relay??

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