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Brake Job, no pressure after attempting to bleed


shaggyT
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I just swapped the front brakes with new stainless steel lines, new calipers and pads also on the '76 . After attempting to bleed with the 2 person method, only very little fluid comes out of the rear passenger side, there is no resistance in the pedal and the reservoir doesnt look like it went down at all. With the car there is absolutely no brakes. After cracking the front caliper bleeders no fluid is coming out. After pumping vigourously there is still no pressure, with car off or on. What can it be

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After pointing the bleeding catch tube higher, was able to bleed the rear the pedal got stiffer. After pumping for awhile managed to get fluid out of the top bleeder on the front caliper (new caliper). Didnt get any fluid to the other bleeders(inside/outside) before decided to wrap up for the day.

 

Is it likely that there is just butt load of air in the lines due to empty new calipers and empty new front lines and requires major bleeding? Or does it sound as if master cylinder seals gave out?

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The master cylinder seals were probably already weak and by pumping them past their normal parking location inside the bore they gave up the ghost.  

 

There are rather inexpensive options to replace the component:http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=pr5i3z452rsoot45bdfbgyjo&makeid=800003@BMW&modelid=1010822@2002&year=1976&cid=14@Brake %26 Wheel Hub&gid=1836@Brake Master Cylinder

 

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Might also just be that there is air trapped in the master, and it's not drawing fluid.

 

I put a few psi of air pressure in the master, and open the bleeders.  Usually the quart container

of fluid has enough to completely fill and bleed the system.

 

You can make your own bleeder out of hardware store parts- the cap off of certain commercial

bottles (3M products, I've found) screw right on, and then you just figure out how to plumb

up a line to your compressor, Mity Vac, or bike pump...

 

t

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6 hours ago, TobyB said:

Might also just be that there is air trapped in the master, and it's not drawing fluid.

 

I put a few psi of air pressure in the master, and open the bleeders.  Usually the quart container

of fluid has enough to completely fill and bleed the system.

 

You can make your own bleeder out of hardware store parts- the cap off of certain commercial

bottles (3M products, I've found) screw right on, and then you just figure out how to plumb

up a line to your compressor, Mity Vac, or bike pump...

 

t

I'm going to try this i feel the pedal getting stiffer so this is likely. I'll post back next weekend.

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I'm also going to be tackling a brake bleed this week, and I'd like to give the one-person pressurizer method a go. 

 

I've got a side-question thou... Why is it that 2002's Brake Fluid Resi is vented to atmosphere? Or where else could moisture be leaking into the system?

 

Has anyone attempted to swap to a sealed resi system, or the type with the expanding rubber bladder insert to minimize the hygroscopic nature of brake fluid?

 

Here in moist Germany, I notice its pretty much a necessity to bleed every year with my car. Granted, shes' been sitting... but when I parked her I had a firm pedal and stopping power, but a year later she's got the stopping distance of a Cargo Ship.

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