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m10 cam removal tool


Nateb603

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Hi guys,  Im trying to make a m10 cam removal tool and have seen a few pictures of homemade tools but most of the pictures do not have the cam installed. Im trying to find out if the "depressors" are meant to sit on the edge of the rocker arms or if they are supposed to fit in the slots of the rocker on top of the ecentrics. If anyone has pictures of the tool in use that would be a huge help. I am making it out of angle iron, like the ones I have seen but none of the local places had 1"  angle, so I made the frame from 1.5".  The depressors seem too long/ wide. Maybe it has to be made from 1" angle. Any advice or aditional pictures would be a huge help. Thank you

 

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Mine sat on the eccentrics.  Step 1 was to loosen the eccentrics, set them to 'maximum lash', and then re- tighten them.

 

It worked OK- you have to be careful not to bang the valves into each other.

 

I eventually gave up on it and went to the 'weasel the rockers around until there's no pressure on one rocker pivot rod' version.

It was a lot quicker.

It's even easier if you use the clamp- style rocker retainers- lots more room.

 

t

 

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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Isn't there a method where you rotate the cam when valves reach max lift, you wind a shop towel around the valve head to maintain the valve open with the towel wedged into the valve seat?

 

 This is only a few millimetres so you can do both inlet and exhaust. Once they are all done and the lash has been maxed out the cam can be withdrawn. 

rtheriaque wrote:

Carbs: They're necessary and barely controlled fuel leaks that sometimes match the air passing through them.

My build blog:http://www.bmw2002faq.com/blog/163-simeons-blog/

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I have tried the shop towel method before and it did work. The problem is that Im removing the cam so that the head can be surfaced. the shop towel method mainly works for just swapping the cam because the towels remain holding the valves open and you can insert the new cam, rotate it, and pull the towels out but I wont have a way of opening the valves again to insert the shop towels or remove them when the cam is out of the head.  

Edited by Nateb603
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I remember someone posting a detailed drawing with dimensions of the tool...but I can't find it. But for stock cam it's not so hard to make it good enough.

Another story for race engine. After dozen times I'm still to learn a hassle free way to remove/install Schrick 316 with 39/48 valves.

In this thread there is one quite good picture. Maybe you found it already as there is no cam present.

 

Edited by Tommy

Racing is Life - everything before and after is just waiting!

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I made this a couple of weeks ago, worked a treat. And used these dimensions/info found on this site. The metal I used fitted snugly in the slot of the rockers. (The clamp front right was used as that cam cover stud was stripped in the head).

 

"put the cam lobes for #2 in the down position, then incrementally work the exhaust side down first followed by the intake side (a handful of mm's at a time, side to side). As I approach full compression of the tool, the #1 valves get close and will eventually kiss, if you tighten aggressively or in a different sequence; it doesn't take much to bend valves. And even with all this, sometimes the #2 rocker has to be 'encouraged' to move a little more so that the camshaft slips out...occasionally with the tag-team help of a rubber hammer. -KB

 

20mm exhaust

16mm inlet"

 

cam-removal-action.thumb.jpg.302e369db11ea81aacd8d3e013d7a275.jpg

 

cam-removal-sm.jpg.3f9d774b0f46f4e81389f4f76734d221.jpg

 

cam-removal.thumb.jpg.723e3933441ff8e5c135597dd0326315.jpg

 

 

cam-removal2-sm.jpg.777ee5837a0a2c85a90908ba0a958adb.jpg

 

 

cam-removal2.thumb.jpg.00e0fb2849f71ed3b20f387cd4ccec1e.jpg

 

avaTour2.jpg.52fb4debc1ca18590681ac95bc6f527f.jpg

 

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9 hours ago, Nateb603 said:

Hi guys,  Im trying to make a m10 cam removal tool and have seen a few pictures of homemade tools but most of the pictures do not have the cam installed. Im trying to find out if the "depressors" are meant to sit on the edge of the rocker arms or if they are supposed to fit in the slots of the rocker on top of the ecentrics. If anyone has pictures of the tool in use that would be a huge help. I am making it out of angle iron, like the ones I have seen but none of the local places had 1"  angle, so I made the frame from 1.5".  The depressors seem too long/ wide. Maybe it has to be made from 1" angle. Any advice or aditional pictures would be a huge help. Thank you

 

 

FYI - for those not interested in making one, they're still available (the aftermarket version of the unit shown above). PM for info. -KB

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Thank you guys very much for the replies and the pictures.  I got some smaller angle today so hopefully that will work out. If it all works out iI will post some pictures of the finished tool. Thanks for all the help its really appreciated. 

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On 28/03/2017 at 7:38 AM, Nateb603 said:

The problem is that Im removing the cam so that the head can be surfaced.

 

Do you really need to remove the cam at all? My local head skimmer doesnt need the head broken down. I just drop off a head, sit in the waiting room for 45 minutes, they come out and give me back a skimmed and cleaned head, I then give them £40 and I'm on my way.  

02tii 2751928 (2582)

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12 minutes ago, JohnH said:

 

Do you really need to remove the cam at all? My local head skimmer doesnt need the head broken down. I just drop off a head, sit in the waiting room for 45 minutes, they come out and give me back a skimmed and cleaned head, I then give them £40 and I'm on my way.  

 

but with the cam installed surely some of the valves will always be protruding beyond the surface of the head?

 

avaTour2.jpg.52fb4debc1ca18590681ac95bc6f527f.jpg

 

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