Crankshaft rear seal shim ??

[worzella]

Hi - 

 

One more and I think most of my questions are done for a few days

 

When pulling apart my M10 last week, I noticed a slight line (groove is too much for this)

on the rear 8-bolt crank flange from the seal.

 

Reading the documentation/FAQ, I was told to make note of the axial position of the seal before 

removing so that when inserting the new seal you can slide it ever so slightly forward or back

in the cover. This will give the seal a fresh seat instead of running over the previous groove.

 

But my engine guy/brother, who is used to building Mopar V8's asked if a "shim" is available 

for this flange. He said on his rebuilds he uses a cylindrical, very thin metal shim that just pressure 

fits over the flange, giving a clean surface the whole depth.

 

Just curious if this exists for M10 cranks.

 

Randy 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[harold]

Yes.  Search on Rockauto - under engine, is something called crankshaft repair sleeve.   They have them for front and rear of crank - about $25.   I would do what BMW recommends, and make sure the lip of the new seal rides on a virgin portion of the crank.  Polish it up good before assembly.

[Buckeye]

like this

 

[Guest_anonymous]

Your brother is talking about a quickie sleeve, a very good solution for the front main. The rear main as buckeye shows is a shim that sits in the rear main housing so the seal doesn't sit in the same position when bottomed out in the housing.

[worzella]

Thanks all.. and for clarifying how the rear shim moves the seal out.

[D.martijn]

Quick question, my rear seal housing was fairly pitted so I decided to replace it.

This would mean I don't need the shim for the seal as the housing is brand new right? Or should I use the shim anyway?

[Simeon]

Use the shim anyway. 

[TobyB]

...and save the Speedi- Sleeve for significantly grooved journals.  I'm always surprised

at how a nice new seal can conform to a pretty deep groove and not leak.

 

And I wonder- when a seal wears through a speedi- sleeve, the sharp edges

must chow the remains of the seal up pretty quickly....

that seems like a big mess.

 

t

 

[Son of Marty]

3 hours ago, D.martijn said:

Quick question, my rear seal housing was fairly pitted so I decided to replace it.

This would mean I don't need the shim for the seal as the housing is brand new right? Or should I use the shim anyway?

The shim moves the seal in relation to the crank so if you replace your real seal housing it should at least in theory put the seal in the same spot on the crank, so yes a shim would be in order.  Toby i have never seen a spedi sleeve wear through they usually mirror the groove your trying to cover up and gain clearance that way. 

Edited March 19, 2017 by Son of Marty

[D.martijn]

 

11 hours ago, Simeon said:

Use the shim anyway. 

 

10 hours ago, Son of Marty said:

The shim moves the seal in relation to the crank so if you replace your real seal housing it should at least in theory put the seal in the same spot on the crank, so yes a shim would be in order.  Toby i have never seen a spedi sleeve wear through they usually mirror the groove your trying to cover up and gain clearance that way. 

 

Aah, yes I get it now! Thank you for explaining!