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Dormant tii Fuel Clean Up - Need Advice - Part 2


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Hello again,

 

Got a chance this afternoon to get my hands greasy (well.... mostly gas-e).

 

I pulled the tii fuel lines off the pump, from the tank, and removed the pick-up and float.  The tank looks pretty clean and now I thought I'd ask some advise before ruining anything.

 

Thanks for taking a peak.  My questions are repeated (here) and at the bottom of the post.

 

1.  I think the tank looks clean.  Question is does the photo above show the drain plug (hex key)?  Comments welcome.

2.  Is the silver canister an inline filter zip tied to the pump?  (pretty sure I have a new one, not sure about the placement here though)  

3.  The tank boo-boo should be left as is?

4.  Forgot to photo it -but the tank pick-up has a screen held in by a plastic ring with 4 long tabs at the 12,3,6,9 positions.  Does that just pry off?  If so, any tricks?  I didn't want to rip it.  

5.  Once these things are done, I'll continue with Rob S.'s tii start-up guide.  

 

 

Left and right side of trunk

 

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Fuel lines off the pump

 

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The tank looks pretty clean

 

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Is this where / how I drain the gas (I'm like 99% sure, but never done it and figured it wouldn't hurt to ask ?

 

IMG_2539.thumb.JPG.153e04e1e5d8c719dbc4c156729d73ae.JPG

 

Looks like new fuel lines are in order.  Is the silver thing an inline filter (I think I have a new one on the shelf)?  I also believe there is a filter / screen in the fuel pump that needs cleaning - correct ?

 

IMG_2543.thumb.JPG.2a666333384ec45a178615f44aa31b3c.JPGIMG_2545.thumb.JPG.ff465b045c081bf1f84d452e87136343.JPG

 

Anyone know if this is a standard diff (the car was converted to a 5 speed)

 

IMG_2542.thumb.JPG.b781f6f9da234231b0bacd3881ab5047.JPG

 

Bilsteins and adjustable sway bar

 

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And a boo-boo on the tank.  I don't plan on addressing it, it looks just fine.  

 

IMG_2548.thumb.JPG.92657eccd293e1b4bb6426068add58e9.JPG

 

Thanks for taking a peak.  My questions are repeated (here) and at the top of the post.

 

1.  I think the tank looks clean.  Question is does the photo above show the drain plug (hex key)?  Comments welcome.

2.  Is the silver canister an inline filter zip tied to the pump?  

3.  The tank boo-boo should be left as is?

4.  Forgot to photo it -but the tank pick-up has a screen held in by a plastic ring with 4 long tabs at the 12,3,6,9 positions.  Does that just pry off?  If so, any tricks?  I didn't want to rip it.  

5.  Once these things are done, I'll continue with Rob S.'s tii start-up guide.  

 

Plans are to remove the pump sending pump, clean the filter / screen.  

 

Edited by 73tiiDavidPA
typo

Any society that would give up a little liberty to gain a little security will deserve neither and lose both.

Benjamin Franklin

73 tii (Verona, survivor, owned since '92)

66 DS21 (most technologically advanced car of the 20th Century)

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Q. #6. is this a standard diff?

A. with the rear end off the ground, spin one wheel and note which direction the other wheel spins.

     if they spin the same direction, you WIN and have yourself a limited slip diff.  Opposite directions = open diff.

 

Q. #2 fuel filter?

A.  yes.

   

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1. Yes

2. Yes

3. Really up to you, if it doesnt leak why fix it but then again if you want a peace of mind do it properly and forget it

4. Iirc bend tabs a bit, screen should come of easy. Disclaimer: it has been many moons since i 've done it

5. Good. 

 

Hth

2002 -73 M2, 2002 -71 forced induction. bnr32 -91

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Tank could be cleaner, and since the car had been sitting, and there is a boo-boo, I would suggest pulling it out and having it professionally cleaned, welded, and sealed.  Or replace with new.

1973 tii, agave, since 1992

1973 tii block 2763759

1967 Mustang GT fastback, since 1986

1999 Toyota 4Runner, 5 speed, ELocker, Supercharged

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Hi David,

I went through this a few months ago on my Tii.

#1 - Yes that is the drain plug.  If you can get your hand and paper towels through the pick-up hole wipe the inside of the tank the best you can after drained.

#2 - The inline filter zip tied to the expansion tank is not standard.  Expansion tank is not being used.  Would not try and reuse the expansion tank since both ends are open.

Would replace the filter but right now it's on the outlet side of pump.  I added a filter on the inlet side of electric pump and installed in the trunk  under floor board.  Causes it to lift a little bit. (NAPA #3299 1/2 "inlet/outlet).  Change all fuel hoses those look pretty degraded.

#3 - As said before it's up to you.

#4 - Just pry out the pick-up screen, you are going to replace it anyway. New one just pops in with a little persuasion.

#5 - Yes, follow Rob's guide

 

On the inlet screen in the banjo fitting I would recommend just blowing it out from the outlet side.  Don't try and get little clip out.  I removed mine and it lost tension and it came out and went into K-fischer pump. Luckily got it out without damaging anything. Rob used my experience in a Roundel article.

 

I would also recommend getting the upgraded electric fuel pump.  There have been quite a few Tii's left stranded with a failed 44 year old pump.  Replaced mine.  Search Tii electric fuel pump and you should find guide to replacing.

Best of Luck,

Glen

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Additional #6.  The differential's side covers are 4-bolt style, which indicates the differential is either from a 2002 or from an early e21 (through '78, I believe).  Plus, there appears to be the larger gap between side cover and output flange typical of '02's.  I'd probably guess it's a 2002 differential and, because factory 2002 LSD's are rare, I'm guessing it's an open differential.  When I see that the car's Kugelfischer still retains its wire hose clip -- rare -- I'd also guess that the differential is original to this car (probably an open 3.64).  The casting date on the top of the differential housing, the casting date on the inside of the rear cover, and any completion markings (# pinion teeth, # ring teeth, LSD "S", month and date) will generally confirm or deny whether the differential is original to the car.

 

Continues to look like a great find!

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

1976 2002 Polaris, 2742541 (original owner)

1973 2002tii Inka, 2762757 (not-the-original owner)

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Well... I got the pump out of the car.... the third 10mm nut up top is not an easy get.  

 

I then plunged forward... not reading of course the reference material.....

 

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No real harm (I hope) everything went back together again and got cleaned

 

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Not too much sediment or rust in the screen (missed the step that this little thingy comes out without taking the pump apart. 

 

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I was also able to get the pick up screen off and clean that too

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Next set of questions I am pondering....

 

6.  I think I got the alignment of the pump input nozzle correctly in relation to the pump.  I used the factory photo as a guide, and where the markings from the gaskets were.  (I should have taken a photo before dis-assembly.... must remember that in the future)

7.  Is there a way (for really electrically challenged people) to bench test the pump.  I know the stock answer "hook it up to a 12v source..." but really don't know how to do that.  Wires directly from the new battery I bought?  Do I run only gas through it to test?  I would really rather not install a dead pump.  I don't want to replace per se, trying to keep costs down / this is not a keeper car.  

8.  Noted before, the expansion tank was not in use, I have no issue not including it (leaving it there, just not using it) when I re-install.  Any issues with not using it?

9.  Where do you guys get rid of old gas?  I know I can take oil to AutoZone etc., pretty sure they don't take gas.

10.  New gas lines.  Can I just pick these up a Napa or like store?  I don't need little roundels on my fuel lines.  Do I need to tell them anything special about the type of line?  Clamps?

11.  Where is the in line filter suppose to go (obviously not zip tied to the pump)?

 

Thanks everyone is so helpful, I would certainly be lost without all the support.  

    

 

 

 

 

Any society that would give up a little liberty to gain a little security will deserve neither and lose both.

Benjamin Franklin

73 tii (Verona, survivor, owned since '92)

66 DS21 (most technologically advanced car of the 20th Century)

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Well, you'd really need to pressure and flow test the pump. If I were you I'd bite the bullet and install first.

 

The filter mounts on a bracket just to the left of the radiator. Assuming you have the standard radiator you should be able to restore to the proper location.

 

Pic from Bill Williams....

 

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Cheers,

 

 

Ray

Stop reading this! Don't you have anything better to do?? :P
Two running things. Two broken things.

 

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Expansion tank is reputedly a noise reducer. If the original pump still works and you decide to keep using it, there may be more pump noise than usual. Changing to a 5-series pump most likely makes the problem go away, as far as I can tell. 5-series is a more developed design (i.e., newer). There's no telling why a filter was jury-rigged in place of the expansion tank.

Where I live, the county has a waste disposal facility adjacent to the main dump facility for household chemicals, and they take old gasoline. There is an annual limit to how much stuff one can dump there. Actually, they take almost anything.

Jerry

no bimmer, for now

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If you buy a 5 series fuel pump, try to retain the expansion tank for noise reduction and a fuel surge capacity. aFAIK, BMW still sells the expansion tank/pump mounting bracket new. My 73 started leaking at the end caps of the tank so I bought a new one.  An E30 318 in tank pump is a nice upgrade.

 

only use hose rated for fuel injected vehicles

 

clean the other screens first before restarting. I have posted them many times before (I am getting to be an old fart).

Jim Gerock

 

Riviera 69 2002 built 5/30/69 "Oscar"

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