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M10 Crank Bolt Removal


Dake

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Hi all, first I'd just like to say I've Googled the heck out of this issue and cannot find a clear response. The details are in another thread but the TLDR is I accidentally drilled through the timing chain cover and now I need to remove it.

 

I ordered a Lisle Flywheel Stop from O'Reilly (in black) and its teeth are improperly spaced. I ordered a VW flywheel stop from eBay (in gold, as suggested on an 02 forum) and I see no way it will work because the gap between the flywheel and case is nowhere near wide enough. It's wide enough for the black one, just barely, but again those teeth are not spaced right. This is an E21 transmission. Is there a tool that will get this job done?

 

"Just put the car in top gear and pull the e-brake"

Well first, I don't have an e-brake. But I did put the car in 5th and chock both rear wheels. I applied heat and PB. I was literally hanging from a 4 foot breaker bar and nothing happened.

 

"Just use a screwdriver on one of the teeth"

I'm not a fan of breaking a tooth off the flywheel, and with my luck that's what would happen. This bolt has probably been attached since before I was born.

 

"Just machine your own tool"

I wish I had the resources to do that!

flywheel.jpg

Edited by Dake

1969 2002

Doubles as a work bench and lunch table

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I am assuming you are talking about the NUT that holds the front pulley onto the crank?  You know that it is a normal Right Hand Thread?  Getting anything on the flywheel to lock it in place will be hard with the transmission installed.  As long as you have full engagement and it does not slip off you should be ok with a screw driver/pry bar inserted between 2 teeth if you can get access.  It should be torqued to about 300ft/lb + rust

1970 1602 (purchased 12/1974)

1974 2002 Turbo

1988 M5

1986 Euro 325iC

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The air cooled VW flywheel lock has (2) sides spaced for VW 6 volt 180mm and 200mm 12 volt flywheels. It will not fit exactly in the BMW flywheel teeth but it will work.  The bolt that comes with the tool is incorrect for use on the BMW engine- I use a different bolt.  Since your transmission is in place, I do not think you can use a lock with just the inspection cover removed.  If you are taking the car apart, pull the radiator and try to use an impact on the 30mm nut holding the pulley to the crank.

Jim Gerock

 

Riviera 69 2002 built 5/30/69 "Oscar"

Royal Red 69 VW Squareback built 8/13/68 “Patty”

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If 5th gear and chocked wheels allows a 4' breaker bar, securing the engine from rotation is not your problem. 

 

Chemical weapons first: apply your favourite penetrating oil. 

 

Use a impact wrench. The biggest you can find. If you don't have air etc Then look into something like a 'slogger wrench'

 

http://www.tridon.com.au/products/Toledo/24/327578/sloggers/409471/offset-cranked-slogging-wrenches-safety-version-metric/437445/SWRM30CS

 

Finally, it may need some heat applied to the nut or even split and replaced. Drill down parallel with the crankshaft to weaken the nut and then have at it with a sharp cold chisel. 

rtheriaque wrote:

Carbs: They're necessary and barely controlled fuel leaks that sometimes match the air passing through them.

My build blog:http://www.bmw2002faq.com/blog/163-simeons-blog/

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Air impact gun.  $20 Harbor freight, fill the compressor tank, put on ear muffs, have at it, and read a book.

It'll sit there whattling away for 5 minutes, then all of a sudden, brrrapppp and it's off.

 

Or an 8' bar.  Moderate heat and a penetrating oil helps, too.

 

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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I just bump it off with the starter.  Take a breaker bar or big 1/2" drive ratchet and wedge the end between the battery tray and the frame rail, and make sure the socket is firmly in place on the crank nut.  One brief turn of the key to spin the starter and it pops loose.  Its surprisingly far less dramatic than you'd expect.  Sometimes the ratchet falls to the ground afterward, but no biggie.  

 

Edit:  Plenty o' videos of this method.  I've done it in several types of cars, including the 02 multiple times.  Crazy easy.  https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=starter+bump+crank+bolt     

Edited by KFunk

Bring a Welder

1974 2002, 1965 Datsun L320 truck, 1981 Yamaha XS400, 1983 Yamaha RX50, 1992 Miata Miata drivetrain waiting on a Locost frame, 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser

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17 hours ago, Preyupy said:

I am assuming you are talking about the NUT that holds the front pulley onto the crank?  You know that it is a normal Right Hand Thread?  Getting anything on the flywheel to lock it in place will be hard with the transmission installed.  As long as you have full engagement and it does not slip off you should be ok with a screw driver/pry bar inserted between 2 teeth if you can get access.  It should be torqued to about 300ft/lb + rust

 

You, uh, sure about that 300 ft/lb. number? Maybe you're thinking of a rear axle nut?

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1VzY_ydaeqp_lN-NT_dpMSjvD9_rbh5g27BunmTNRKKI/edit#gid=0

 

That sheet shows 101 to 108 ft. lb for the v-belt pulley on the crankshaft, which seems similar to what I've found in my manual (not with me) and put on my crank nut many times before.   

Edited by KFunk

Bring a Welder

1974 2002, 1965 Datsun L320 truck, 1981 Yamaha XS400, 1983 Yamaha RX50, 1992 Miata Miata drivetrain waiting on a Locost frame, 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser

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I made a tool in about 10 minutes.  Using G-10 fiberglass I had laying around.  One hole is tapped for a little M6 bolt to create a nub to fit into a flywheel hole; the other hole is used to bolt it onto the tranny bell housing.  

DSCN1523.JPG

DSCN1522.JPG

Edited by jmiller
M6, not M10 (uses 10mM socket)
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3 hours ago, jmiller said:

I made a tool in about 10 minutes.  Using G-10 fiberglass I had laying around.  One hole is tapped for a little M10 bolt to create a nub to fit into a flywheel hole; the other hole is used to bolt it onto the tranny bell housing.  

DSCN1523.JPG

DSCN1522.JPG

The winner solution by far.  Send this man a cool one.

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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jmiller, that is amazing. That's the kind of solution I like: a free one.

 

I'll try that out over the weekend, but at first glance my flywheel doesn't have threaded holes or holes large enough for a substantial bolt (larger than M3 or so).

 

I would use the starter or a screwdriver if I didn't have visions of something breaking and the car getting parked for ten years.

1969 2002

Doubles as a work bench and lunch table

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40 minutes ago, Dake said:

 

I would use the starter or a screwdriver if I didn't have visions of something breaking and the car getting parked for ten years.

 

Screwdriver I'd worry about breaking teeth on flywheel, but not sure, never done that.

 

Starter is kind of like using an electric impact wrench, only much easier.  As long as your socket is on straight (6pt. preferably), you're fine.  It's amazingly drama-free.  Watch the vids ( https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=starter+bump+crank+bolt ). I've done it on my 02 several times, including with my freshly rebuilt engine with all the goodies, on a friend's Corolla, a friend's Escort, and my wife's Subaru.      

Bring a Welder

1974 2002, 1965 Datsun L320 truck, 1981 Yamaha XS400, 1983 Yamaha RX50, 1992 Miata Miata drivetrain waiting on a Locost frame, 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser

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Get clean cotton clothes line rope shove it down a spark plug hole on the compression stroke. It will stop the crank from turning, then give your breaker bar a good pull. Back the crank up and pull the rope out. I've also used a plug wire at a wrecking yard when rope wasn't available. 

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