My first roundie

[ray_]

3 hours ago, zinz said:

Which one?

 

Ed

 

 

Fixed that for you!

Edited February 16, 2017 by ray_

[zinz]

I figured someone would say as much...

 

I'm down to 3, and soon it will be 2.

 

Ed

[JerryC]

Back to smog pumps - my early '68 1600 had both a smog pump and gulp valve back in 1995. It was VIN 1561983. It was resold for the umth time on BAT about a year ago, still looking good!

[69NEWCLASSNH]

Got em. Do you want the manifold too? PM with shipping details.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Alex-01]

On 2/17/2017 at 11:47 AM, 69NEWCLASSNH said:

Got em. Do you want the manifold too? PM with shipping details.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

PM sent

[69NEWCLASSNH]

i'll see if i can get the box out today.. already boxed up.

[Alex-01]

Hey everyone, 

I've been reading some threads regarding the bumpers on our cars, but I remain unclear of a few things. Does my car (69 1600) already have the more desirable shorty bumper? Do people tuck in my style bumper, some cars look like their bumpers are shorter. I'll appreciate any advice or suggestions.

 

Thanks

 

Alex

[AceAndrew]

1 hour ago, Alex-01 said:

 

I've been reading some threads regarding the bumpers on our cars, but I remain unclear of a few things. Does my car (69 1600) already have the more desirable shorty bumper? Do people tuck in my style bumper, some cars look like their bumpers are shorter. I'll appreciate any advice or suggestions.

 

 

Hi Alex,  

 

Bumper ?: Yes

Bumper shortening ?: No

 

In regards to bumpers, you've got just about the best most anyone can ask for.  Some opt for a few small changes like the lower-profile euro-market bumper overriders and license plate lights.  As a former designer, I prefer the taller us-spec overriders, they add a needed "vertical" element to the body shape.

[Alex-01]

3 minutes ago, AceAndrew said:

 

Hi Alex,  

 

Bumper ?: Yes

Bumper shortening ?: No

 

What do you mean there?

 

Thanks for your input, it helped me understand what I have.

[AceAndrew]

Yes to your question regarding if you had the desirable bumpers.

 

No to your question if people shorten them or not. 

Edited February 27, 2017 by AceAndrew

[Alex-01]

1 hour ago, AceAndrew said:

Yes to your question regarding if you had the desirable bumpers.

 

No to your question if people shorten them or not. 

Got it! Thanks for the break down 

[Alex-01]

Calling any battery wire gauge experts!

 

So I've decided I'm going to make my own battery cables but I haven't found a clear answer on the gauge I should use. This isn't a battery relocation project and right now that is not the goal. I'm in the process of putting some things back to together to see if I can start this car by next week.

 

Anyways, I didn't want to spend $50+ on the stock ground wiring, and was wondering if there's anything I can do to upgrade the wiring. The stock ground is a flat non insulated wire and I would like to change that to something insulated, but don't know what gauge to use. The positive wiring isn't looking too good at the starter connection so I figured I can change this to.

 

Thoughts? Any don't dos? Should I keep the original setup or should I proceed with the plan?

 

Again, I'm not interested in a relocation discussion, i already seen a thread (that otherwise would have addressed my doubts) turn into a relocation debate.

 

TIA guys

[Simeon]

If you look at the wiring diagram the battery cables are given as 16mm2 which are not massive. This is an equivalent to 6 AWG wire. Maybe get something a bit bigger but no need to go too big. 

 

The ground strap, with two legs comprise of a 16mm2 and 8mm2 straps. To replicate this, the main thing is to connect the engine block to the battery using a new cable. You can then connect the block to the body with another cable the same size. 

 

Get prepare cables with factory crimped terminals. Alternatively, if you want to make them yourself, use solder lugs. Avoid anything that screws together to grip the cable. 

 

Edited March 23, 2017 by Simeon
Wiring diagram added.

[Alex-01]

12 hours ago, Simeon said:

If you look at the wiring diagram the battery cables are given as 16mm2 which are not massive. This is an equivalent to 6 AWG wire. Maybe get something a bit bigger but no need to go too big. 

 

The ground strap, with two legs comprise of a 16mm2 and 8mm2 straps. To replicate this, the main thing is to connect the engine block to the battery using a new cable. You can then connect the block to the body with another cable the same size. 

 

Get prepare cables with factory crimped terminals. Alternatively, if you want to make them yourself, use solder lugs. Avoid anything that screws together to grip the cable. 

thanks for the advise. Do you think I can go with a 2awg on the ground wire from battery to block, and 4awg on the positive side? Do you happen to know the size of the lug diameters I need?

[Simeon]

The ground and the positive cables only need to be the same size. 4 AWG will be fine for both. The battery terminals are the standard 'small' size (whatever that is) basically not truck sized. Once upon a time the positive and negative terminals were slightly different sizes but now I think they use a single terminal that does both and modern batteries are designed that way. 

 

I think the lugs are 8mm for the terminal on the starter motor and that will be the same for the block.