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BMW 1800 TISA

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I put a new dashboard in my 2002 turbo, it's about a day of work, but becomes two days with mission creep. Along the way I tidied the garage, and cleaned off the serial numbers on my Tisa block for the first time. I keep the old tired motor in the garage, and put the weak original gearbox aside as well.

I thought I would post a image  of stock TiSA  piston domes just to keep the TiSA thread alive.

 

Best regards, Peter

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And just for comparison, here is the piston and some numbers on an 1800ti block. Peter does your block also have the numbers like in the 3rd picture(top left on 1st pic) 

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Dan, and my BMW brothers, those 995107 numbers at the top of the picture are from my Tisa block. I posted them partly because I was shocked that they were so uneven and UNGerman. Maybe the serial block number stampers we're drunk that day, after lunch, I'm amazed at the pattern. I have, however, had pleasant amounts of German and Czech beer over the years and can see how things could've turned out this way. Very high quality and first class beer is made in the Czech republic, who invented Pilsner.

Dan thanks very much for the dome comparison pictures of the BMW 1800 TI pistons. I am building a hot rod two door BMW, and putting a 2000 Tilux motor into it. Unfortunately someone rebuilt the motor with smaller dome / lower compression Pistons, and led me to do research on the subject of what the domes look like.

I rushed headfirst down a slippery slope, and of course, am building a high compression hot rod motor now.

 

It is very easy to influence adolescents with the concept of more power from higher compression ratio pistons. The original plan was to build a car with stock 2000 TI motor power, slightly better by virtue of a set of Weber carburetors and a high performance exhaust header. A good honest 130 hp, or so.  

Because the original Pistons were absent, there's no choice but to move forward and overdo things. Before you know it you have a TISA grind 300° camshaft, 45 Webers, exhaust header, and expensive valve springs etc. moving forward.     On the positive side of the ledger, the car will be hideously fast when gear ratios, mild race motor, etc. are all figured out and installed in the car. Oh but now the slippery slope becomes ever more treacherous and difficult. Because the car is faster, you must purchase better brakes, and suspension components like Bilstein shocks absorbers, high performance springs and sway bars. It is hard to implement discipline on a high performance Street period Correct sports car. It will probably wind up while like one of those pig cheeked  race cars driving through France on its way to Lemans, or some other enjoyable race track. Here is a picture of the car in early form next to my UIMG_3854.thumb.JPG.e840dfb457627b0a558ff91013676736.JPGncle Barry's super cool European headlight version BMW 2000 door sedan that his brother Neil got for him..

IMG_3964.thumb.JPG.29d7021bfc3ace0bac9a953c964e2c35.JPGBest regards, Peter

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Got to work on some interior cleaning.  Here are before and after shots of the door cards as well as a shot of the inside of the door card.

Also a before and after of the trunk panels.

Anyone got an idea about how to remove the tire marks.  I think they loaded tires in the back to go to some exciting event in the past.

 

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Wow,Bill that is a beautiful interior door panel. Again, the car is so un molested it becomes like a religious shrine from my standpoint. Please spoil us with more pictures interior, exterior

pictures rusted body pictures anything, That you share will be appreciated.

Best regards, Peter

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Here are a couple of images of an NOS Mahle piston that is supposed to be second oversize (84.50).  The markings and the attached page from a period catalog seem to indicate that they are correct so the question/concern I have is the difference between these and the ones in Peter's block.  The dome on mine measures 8.5mm which corresponds to the catalog.  The catalog also indicates the dome heights for 1800 and 1800ti to be 2.7 and 5.5mm respectively.  On these pistons, clearly marked TISA, there are also distinct valve reliefs visible. 

 

I hope to have a look at the pistons in #133 when the engine is dis-assembled for rebuild and maybe that will help clarify.

 

Image showing the valve reliefs

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TISA markings

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Third column shows the dome dimensions, height being the last number

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Jim,

 

I agree.  Apologies for the old camera but I was most interested in showing the shape of the dome and the valve reliefs.  Here is a better image showing the 84.42mm size.58bc3d78029af_TISApistonmarkings.thumb.jpg.0fa6f3274bb9930d278490086ac2a9ba.jpg

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(edited)
59 minutes ago, jgerock said:

Hard to read the piston picture bmbill- stamped number looks like 84.47 (mm) diameter.

 

Looks like 84.42 mm to me.

 

edit: Didn't see Bimill's post with the measurement before I posted.

Edited by adawil2002

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(edited)

To add to the knowledge base, here is an image of a 1800Ti piston sourced from Walloth&Nesch.  The shape of the dome and lack of valve reliefs is visible in an otherwise poor quality shot.  Unfortunately, one of the Ti pistons from Walloth had a bent skirt, probably from being dropped according to  my machine shop. Walloth was very good about accepting a return but sadly this was their last set of oversize 1.8Ti pistons.  Perhaps the last in the world?

58bc7142ede88_1800Tilargeimage.jpg.e77ebda9e3bef170c34b31a1d69aa458.jpg

 

Edited by bimbill

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Anyone have a good rubber e-brake boot?  Mine has a hole.  Peter's looking through his stash.  Thanks.

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Another query for the assembled multitudes.  Back seat back and bottom both are in great shape, including the padding, but I think the padding has a mildew tang--more than just "old BMW" smell.  I was looking into ways of dealing with this other than getting them re-stuffed.  Anyone have experience with Auto Vaccine or have some other method to try?  Thanks.  Bill

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Bill, consider spraying Febreeze on the front and back of them, then washing the front vinyl off with gentle soapy water. Place outside in the sunshine, let dry. As always infection/mildew does not occur in the sunshine.. Redress the seats with good vinyl dressing. Please don't restuff them, they are too original. Remember the paraphrase of Voltaire

"The enemy of good is better."

This is usually referred to during angioplasty on the renal arteries. Oh let's make them a little better, and then the artery rupture's and you have to call the vascular surgeon. I personally would favor originality over a little honestly occurring milldew aroma in a car that is about 60 years old.

The Universe is in a state of significant entropy, and there is certainly pleasure in slowing parts of it, but I think we need to know our limits as humans. My existence means less than an ant fart in the continuum of time. But you know what, your TiSA will likely exist after you do not. I recommend signing the inside of body parts or Occult areas that you have worked on with a sharpie marker "Bill was here" seriously it's your car, I occasionally do this just for the fun of it. So that if somebody does happen to take the dashboard out of my 2002 turbo after another 40 years,they will discover my little bit of 2017 graffiti. It is only a little bit sacrilegious; a car can only be completely original once.

 

Best regards, Peter

 

P. S. That is definitely a very early style handbrake proper cover, the later ones are not as biomorphically molded. Kind of like stylistically comparing a alpha Romeo sprint speciale to a 1970s wedge-shaped Lamborghini Countach or Lotus esprit. 

If we asked everyone to send in copies of their rubber handbrake boot covers, somebody would likely turn up an early one like yours, but it may take quite a while. I do not recall ever seeing one like that. The hand brake cover of my car is different making me wonder if it was  replaced earlier on.

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