Suspension overhaul possibly in the next couple of weeks

[Dionk]

A suspension overhaul is my next big project. I considered a rebuilt head and cam but the engine is running fine so ground contact and feel is next. Have had great luck working with the guys up at Bluntech - hopefully "moby" will make it to vintage this year so I can meet them. I digress....Thinking of buying all that's pictured here and a new rear subframe (mine has a rust hole) as well.

What am I missing that should also be considered?

Thanks

Dion

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[Hans]

You'll want a bunch of new cotter pins, a large can of PB Blaster, maybe thread cleaners and other assorted special tools, maybe front upper strut mounts, maybe spring pads (depending on what you have - one , two or three dots for different thicknesses). How old are the rear rubber brake lines?

[Dionk]

All brakes, brake parts (rotors and drums) and lines are new! That was second big project getting a running engine and trans in the car was the first. Agree on the upper strut mounts and spring pads - good catch. Ty


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[Dionk]

How many spring pads would I need - 4 or 8?


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[Dionk]

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Edited January 27, 2017 by Dionk

[Dionk]

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Edited January 27, 2017 by Dionk

[John_in_VA]

The rear strut bar won't add much, if anything, to your handling, but I don't want to take $$ from the BluntTech beer fund!

There's a steering part or two that I don't see pictured in your pile.

Have you considered a good used subframe?

[JerryC]

This could go a long way. What's your budget and time look like?

So, here goes. Everything listed before plus:

Front wheel bearings service

Six of those special studs and nuts that attach the lower front stuff to the strut housing, and the locking wires.

+2 on upper strut bearings

steering box seals, and new oil or grease (search steering box lube)

weld in the left engine mount reinforcement bracket on the front cross member, IE sells a good part for it

steering wheel upgrade

steering shaft flex joint

rear cross member mounts, flip them over to raise the cross member and reduce the camber increase caused by lowering springs

differential mounts

and...

 

['76mintgrün'02]

I would skip the rear strut brace as well.  No struts back there anyway!  From what I have read, bracing the shock towers is not necessary.

 

I put a strut brace up front and then took it out.  I cannot tell a difference.  For me, it was a choice between that bar and running a stock air cleaner on the Weber.  I chose to remove the strut brace and am very happy I installed the air cleaner.

 

There are four (identical) thin spring pads up front.  (edit- not true, see below)

(The top ones last longer than the bottoms, because they tend to hold dirt, which chews them up).

 

In the rear, there are also four pads.

The bottom two are the same and the top two come in three different thicknesses, which need to match, side to side.

The upper rear pad thickness is denoted by dots.  One dot is the thinnest and three the thickest.  Two is between them, of course.

 

With H&R springs, the thicker pads in back seem to work the best, but I would set it up with what you have and see if it needs to be adjusted.  

Edited January 27, 2017 by '76Mintgrun'02

[Mike Self]

And while you have tthe front strut tubes out of the car, be sure and clean all the dirt out of the lower spring cups, then enlarge the drain hole so dirt and water won't get trapped in there again.  The factory made the hole too small and too high, allowing plenty of dirt to accumulate in there, eventually causing rust problems.

 

cheers

mike

[Dionk]

5 hours ago, John_in_VA said:

The rear strut bar won't add much, if anything, to your handling, but I don't want to take $$ from the BluntTech beer fund!

There's a steering part or two that I don't see pictured in your pile.

Have you considered a good used subframe?

Thanks John - ill look into what steering parts may need replacing.

 

 I picked up a used rear subframe (powder coated black) from  coupeking.  At least I ordered it last night anyway. 

[Dionk]

5 hours ago, '76Mintgrun'02 said:

I would skip the rear strut brace as well.  No struts back there anyway!  From what I have read, bracing the shock towers is not necessary....

......The upper rear pad thickness is denoted by dots.

Strut braces are dropped from list. I was tentative on thm anyway.  Thank you for the "dot education" much appreciated. 

[Dionk]

3 hours ago, mike said:

rust problems.

Thanks. good advice.

[Hans]

On spring pads, I agree: wait to see how it looks after a few (hundred) miles, and adjust as necessary. Just make a note of what goes back in,  Are all front pads the same?

 

Hard to avoid scope creep here... I seem to recall it was easier to access ball joints/tie rod ends with backing plate removed....comments??. Is so, how are backing plates? Ditto on rears - since the trailing arms are off. Which  leads to  - as suggested- wheel bearings, since i suspect the front hubs have to come off anyway.  In some ways, it may be better to do this in stages rather than dismantle the entire bottom of the car.

['76mintgrün'02]

16 minutes ago, Hans said:

 Are all front pads the same?

Good catch Hans.  I misspoke.  I just looked them up and there are indeed uppers and lowers.

At PartsGeek, they show uppers and lowers as having different part numbers.

I am sorry for the confusion.

 

I bought all my stuff from Mr BLUNT and his site only shows one front spring pad...

An email or phone call to Blunttech would insure that you are getting the right parts.

(It looks like his price on these is 20% cheaper than on PG )

https://www.blunttech.com/products/3844823