Missing parts on Intake Manifold? Random wire help

[ymanchik]

I'm finally getting around to my long 'to-do' on my 02 so sorry for all the questions. Hoping someone can tell me if there is anything missing on this intake manifold or if everything looks alright. Car runs fine but would give me piece of mind. Also any idea what that wire could be in the last photo? It's dangling right by the firewall, next to the rear of the header. Thanks guys!

[HBChris]

Your signature says you have a 71 but that is a 75/76 smog motor with two barrel intake manifold.  It has the pipes for the thermal reactor manifold plugged and with the Weber carb the sending units have been removed for the Solex choke.  If your car is a 75/76 that wire might have been for the smog solenoids on the firewall along with vacuum lines that connected all of them.

[Hans]

Wonder what that sender looking thing is on the manifold. Temperature of some sort, but not water?

[Simeon]

19 minutes ago, Hans said:

Wonder what that sender looking thing is on the manifold. Temperature of some sort, but not water?

 

It is for air temperature. Switches at 17 deg C and is part of the smog controls. 

[ymanchik]

1 hour ago, HBChris said:

Your signature says you have a 71 but that is a 75/76 smog motor with two barrel intake manifold.  It has the pipes for the thermal reactor manifold plugged and with the Weber carb the sending units have been removed for the Solex choke.  If your car is a 75/76 that wire might have been for the smog solenoids on the firewall along with vacuum lines that connected all of them.

Does that mean someone before me swapped in a 75/76 motor? The intake manifold was swapped out for the current one when I had the Weber installed. 

 

So it's fine to leave everything as is? 

 

Thanks!

[Stevenc22]

Definitely looks like you have a 75/76 motor. You should analyze the entire engine bay and remove any and all smog controls which might be still attached. Lot of extra weight and ineffienct junk if the smog controls are still attached.

 

Your intake manifold looks fine. Those extra holes are for smog controls which are unnecessary.

[Mark92131]

The hole through your intake manifold next to the air temperature switch is used to mount the EGR Gas Filter that runs under the intake manifold.  With everything plugged and sealed, you should be good.

 

Mark92131

 

 

[ymanchik]

5 hours ago, Mark92131 said:

The hole through your intake manifold next to the air temperature switch is used to mount the EGR Gas Filter that runs under the intake manifold.  With everything plugged and sealed, you should be good.

 

Mark92131

 

 

Thanks for that! That helps a lot.

 

[Conserv]

12 minutes ago, ymanchik said:

Thanks for that! That helps a lot.

 

 

If you want to know whether your engine block is original, find the engine number (7-digits, bracketed by "+" signs) on a flat machined boss at the very rear of the block, left side, just above the starter's nose.  If those 7 digits match your car's VIN, it's the original engine block.  If not, it's been swapped at some point -- not a rare occurrence.  There's also probably a casting date on the right side of the engine block, between or near the number 1 and 2 freeze plugs.

 

Your engine's head has a casting date on the left side, perhaps near the number 3 and 4 intake ports, or perhaps near the number 1 port -- generally only on very early examples.

 

Below is a typical engine number, + 2761590 +, (first photo) and a typical engine block casting date, October 31, 1973, or "31 K 73" (second photo).

 

Regards,

 

Steve

Edited January 26, 2017 by Conserv

[ymanchik]

Thanks 

3 hours ago, Conserv said:

 

If you want to know whether your engine block is original, find the engine number (7-digits, bracketed by "+" signs) on a flat machined boss at the very rear of the block, left side, just above the starter's nose.  If those 7 digits match your car's VIN, it's the original engine block.  If not, it's been swapped at some point -- not a rare occurrence.  There's also probably a casting date on the right side of the engine block, between or near the number 1 and 2 freeze plugs.

 

Your engine's head has a casting date on the left side, perhaps near the number 3 and 4 intake ports, or perhaps near the number 1 port -- generally only on very early examples.

 

Below is a typical engine number, + 2761590 +, (first photo) and a typical engine block casting date, October 31, 1973, or "31 K 73" (second photo).

 

Regards,

 

Steve

Thanks Steve, I'll see what I find out tomorrow.

[Hans]

Air temp - makes sense. Thanks Simeon. I'm not  a smog guy.

[ymanchik]

23 hours ago, Simeon said:

 

It is for air temperature. Switches at 17 deg C and is part of the smog controls. 

Is it fine the way it is in the photo or does it need to have a wire going to it?

[HBChris]

You don't have the three smog solenoids or the relay which relies on the air temp sensor and coolant sensor under the manifold so there is nothing to hook up.

[tzei]

10 hours ago, Conserv said:

 

If you want to know whether your engine block is original, find the engine number (7-digits, bracketed by "+" signs) on a flat machined boss at the very rear of the block, left side, just above the starter's nose.  If those 7 digits match your car's VIN, it's the original engine block.  If not, it's been swapped at some point -- not a rare occurrence.  There's also probably a casting date on the right side of the engine block, between or near the number 1 and 2 freeze plugs.

 

Your engine's head has a casting date on the left side, perhaps near the number 3 and 4 intake ports, or perhaps near the number 1 port -- generally only on very early examples.

 

Below is a typical engine number, + 2761590 +, (first photo) and a typical engine block casting date, October 31, 1973, or "31 K 73" (second photo).

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

 

What is the logic behind block casting datum? K is 11th letter in alphabet.

[Conserv]

4 hours ago, tzei said:

What is the logic behind block casting datum? K is 11th letter in alphabet.

 

At least in Germany and the U.S., the letter "I" is generally not utilized in "letter-representing-month" or "letter-representing-year" dating codes -- probably because the letter is similar in appearance to the number "1".  Thus, "K" represents the 10th month of the year.  In Becker radios, H represents 1972 and J represents 1973.  In Blaupunkt radios, H represents 1976 and J represents 1977.  So the "I" disappears!

 

Ford, at least in the late 1950's and early 1960's, used a "letter-representing-month" dating code, albeit in a different format.  Below are the casting dates from my 1961 Ford F-350's intake manifold, cast February 7, 1961, or "1 B 7". and engine block front cover, cast December 13, 1960, or "0 M 13".

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

Edited January 27, 2017 by Conserv