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1967 1600-2 for sale in Seattle $7,000


codigoRojo

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For sale: nice manila 1967 1600-2. Very little original, mechanically, but also very little rust. Non-original 1967 1.6L engine, 4-speed, short neck diff, hydraulic clutch, 12v electrical. Runs well. Sporty driver. Body reasonably clean. Paint has nice patina. Interior pretty nice. Still has some of the nice rare 67 bits. Asking $7,000. You can reply to this post or PM me for more info. It lived in California most of it's life, then in my garage in Seattle. Here's a general view:

 

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Here's what I got from BMW's archive:

 

The BMW 1600 VIN 1522898 was manufactured on April 17th, 1967 and delivered on April 26th, 1967 to the BMW importer Hoffman Motors Corp. in New York City. The original colour was Manila, paint code 004.

 

I have no idea why the paint sticker is wrinkled. 
 

 

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Car has later model subframes and complete drivetrain. 1.6L engine with e12 head, 9.0:1 compression, 284 cam, electric choke 38/38 Weber carb, IE pertronix style electronic ignition. stock exhaust. It starts easily, runs well when warmed up, slightly too rich when dead cold, then slightly too lean while warming up. I've been tinkering with the jetting for the past year or so, but it's not perfect. The car comes with a decent selection of jets so the next owner can continue to fuss with the mixture if desired. There's a wideband O2 sensor installed to help. 

 

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The transmission is a later 4-speed, I believe installed with the engine and later model front subframe (which has a stock, later model sway bar). The trans has a hydraulic clutch. I'm not sure when the rear subframe was replaced, but it definitely was. The car has a short-neck, open differential and regular CV joints. The rear brakes are stock, and the front brakes have e21 calipers but are otherwise stock. I discovered this when one of the calipers seized and I replaced them both with parts off the shelf from O'Reilly's. I installed Bilstein HD shocks and struts and I believe the springs are slightly cut Suspension Techniques (if memory serves, they are marked on the coils). As seen in the pictures, the car has a complete set of five powder coated Alpina R1-440, 5-1/2x13 steel wheels with Sumitomo HTR200 205/60-13 tires. The right front tire rubs a tiny bit when turned to full lock parking, so the outer edge of the tread is slightly cut there. Otherwise all the tires have great tread, and I don't think the spare has ever been used.

 

The interior is nice, if a bit rough around the edges. The black e21 Recaro seats are in excellent shape. A couple of the black plastic hinge trim bits are missing but they look fine to me. The carpet was replaced, and has a full set of coco mats. The original "bus" steering wheel is in good shape although has a couple small cracks. There are several cracks on the original 3-piece dash. The original short center console is intact, and contains a Kenwood cd deck (which I never listen to). The headliner is sagging on the c-pillars but is not torn. The original door panels are decent but the cards are swelled and need replacing, and the mylar "chrome" trim is toast. I installed some of Blue Devils' later style retractable seat belts but they still rub a bit so don't retract as they should. The original rear seat is in good shape, but has indentations from where I had a child safety seat installed. I suspect this will come out with a heat gun and some massaging, but I just removed the child seat and it's too cold out to fix right now.

 

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My next post will have pictures and detailed descriptions of the body, paint, and of course minor rust. 

 

 

Edited by codigoRojo
lowered price and updated engine info
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Body condition:

 

The body is reasonably straight. There are a few bumps and bruises but nothing major. There are four small areas of rust which I will describe (and show pictures of) here: a small hole in the lower left "valance" at the bottom edge of the nose beneath the bumper, the very bottom trailing edge of the right fender, the windshield wiper holes below the front window, and the spare tire well. There are three small dents as well: the passenger door where the door brake appears to have failed at some point, the right upper nose, above the grille and below the hood, and just above the left taillight. All these appear pretty easy to fix to me. The paint isn't great, but it's not terrible either. Much of it appears to be original. There are rub marks on the roof, fender and trunk ridges where a car cover appears to have moved around. The driver's side quarter panel looks like it was repainted at some point, but it matches fairly well. There are numerous rock chips on the nose, which I have always wanted to sand down and repaint. There are also lots of chips in the rear edges of the door jambs. I like the patina, and it definitely has some. 

 

Rust first. Bottom of nose, driver's side. Not sure what causes this common rust location, it's below both the battery and the radiator vent tube so one or both are guilty. Here the rust appears fairly contained, and could probably be repaired without too much hassle. Just cut it out, POR the back side, weld on a small patch. 
 

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The windshield wiper holes have some bubbling and flaking paint around them. The windshield might need to come out to deal with this.

 

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The bottom of the right fender, trailing edge just in front of the door, has some rust where it looks like someone hit a rock or curb. It looks confined to the fender, and could probably be repaired without removing the fender.

 

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The spare tire well has some minor surface rust. I don't see any holes, although they might appear when you try to grind through the surface rust. Definitely doesn't look to me like the well needs replacing in any way.

 

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As for the small dents, the nose panel has a small dent above the passenger side grille. The vaunted perforated beltline trim was bent but not crushed, and I don't think the hood was hit. 

 

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There's a small dent right above the left taillight. I think it can be pushed out with a bottle jack or "porta-power" tool fairly easily. The quarter panel has a very slight kink above the fender arch which may or may not have been caused by the taillight hit. It's so minor you really have to squint to see it. 

 

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The passenger door dent is pretty small. There's one where the belt trim is kinked below the wing window, and a small dent below the knee in the center of the door. Both are less than 1/8 inch deep. Sorry I don't have a good picture of these.

 

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The chipped nose and door jambs are pretty obvious in person, less so in pictures.

 

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Well, that's all for now. If you want to see something specific, shoot me a line and I'll add more pics. Thanks for looking. 

 

Edited by codigoRojo
price lowered
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I'll take pictures of the dash and engine number when I get home from work this evening. 

 

Here are the pictures. Very interesting. The engine is stamped 1523450. That is a 1600 number. Not the original, but not what I expected! Thanks for getting me to get the block number, Flunder! So the car has a 1600 engine! Huh. 

 

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Here are the dash photos. You can see the original cluster and dash are intact and in pretty good shape. There are three big cracks across the top dash pad, starting from the corners of the defroster outlets. And by big, I mean long, but not particularly deep or wide. My plan was to replace the windshield, and while it was out to repair the cracks per several how-to articles found here on the FAQ. This reminds me of another point I forgot about in my previous entries. The front and rear original windshields. There are several self contained, medium rock chips in the front window (but no cracks) of repairable size. Both front and rear windows' safety laminate is faded/fogged/hazy, especially on the edges. It's not a problem unless you drive into the rising or setting sun, at which point the windshield has excessive, potentially unsafe glare. For an occasional driver it's absolutely fine but if I wanted to commute daily I would replace both windows for sure. And since the dash pad needs repair work and the headliner too, and the rust around the wiper holes, that would be the logical time to replace the glass as well. The O2 sensor display seen in the instrument picture is just taped to the cluster lens, and is easily removed. 

 

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Edited by codigoRojo
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I'm going to post up a few under-car pix, but I have to apologize. They are terrible. The light was bad, I couldn't get the car up high enough to really get a good shot. What pix I did get there are a couple things you can see: the weird epoxy holding the floor drains in. The PO stripped out the tar insulation from the interior and thought it was a good idea to knock out the floor drains. He proceeded to glue in some plastic drain caps by smearing a big gob of epoxy on them. There's a nice coat of "rust-preventative" (oil) on the whole underside of the car. I think it looks solid. Frame rails, rockers, floors all look free from rust to me. The other thing you can see is the exhaust, which I replaced with an OEM resonator and muffler. The bit that goes up over the rear crossmember didn't seal well so the muffler shop welded the whole thing up last time it was in. It seals fine now, but will need to be cut if you ever need to pull it out for service. No biggie.

 

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I cannot wait to get my mitts on this beauty , I really like the stance  &  the colour , it's going to make for a fun restoration project I'm going to be doing  for one of my partners in crime :)

1970 4 speed 2002 (Daily driver/track car ) 
1974  Hybrid powered twin cam engine, Pig Cheeks , ( now a round tail.) Getting ready to Sell 
 

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