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Control Arm Bushing Installation


Buckeye

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I came cross this thread (originally was posted by @jerry in Dec. 2006) while was planning to rehab control arm bushings in my car. I read folks talk about replacing entire control arm because is difficult to press new bushings in. So I decided to give it a try on only one arm and see what happens. Well, it worked and procedure is SPOT-ON. Thanks to Author (Jerry). Following is the link to original post. The procedure is also copy and pasted here just in case the link not working properly or is broken.

 

folks, a big hearty thanks to Pinepig and Zenon (and another FAQer whom i've forgotton, who i took the plumbing fitting idea).

anyhow, these bushings have been installed, and with the proper setup and tips offered, this job is very much doable and rather rewarding.

the key was Pinepig's use of bailing wire to wrap the rubber bushing. i used the wire that is made to tie rebar for cement forms; commonly available and cheap.

cut off about 18 inches or so and wrap around the center portion of the bushing. it does not have to be perfect nor necessarily tight (see photo).

assemble a nice pulling tool. i saw a fellow FAQer's use of galvanized pipe and copied it. i ground to small scallops for clearance as shown (see photo). these allow it to seat squarely on the Control Arm (don't want an akward angle to add to the effort). buy a handful of hardened washers and a couple spare nuts.

i took Zenon's comment to heart, not to apply load to the rubber. i accomplished this by salvaging the center tube from the old bushing. use a hacksaw to slice it lengthwise in 2 places. you will still need to pry it off. as Zenon said earlier, these things are tough and can take the abuse. you'll notice that i still have residual rubber on my tube.

the setup should be self evident from the photos. as the bushing is pulled into the hole merely pull the wire one wrap at a time to clear it.

IT WORKS and the effort is minimal. i was able to use my wimpy all-thread rod without fear of pulling the threads apart or mashing the washers. this was tremendous difference from my earlier effort.

pull the bushing past the spot you think it needs to go so that you can properly seat the outer flange. you can adjust the final position of the bushing by reversing the tool and pulling in the opposite direction till it aligns as you want it.

That's all there is to it. Very rewarding and a much less costly alternative to replaceing the entire control arm.

Addendum (3/15/10) (I am unable to upload my photos for some reason)

I found using an ACME threaded rod and a thrust bearing to significantly ease the effort of installing the bushing. These can be purchased from McMaster-Carr.

P/N 93410A120 6ft 1/2-10 ACME threaded rod $37.59

P/N 94815A107 ACME HEX NUT 1/2-10 $2.44/ea Buy 4

you'll only need a 12 inch section of the rod. (the ACME rod is merely a suggestion)

apply grease to the threads to prevent galling of the nut while tightening (the applied loading is quite high)

Also, I strongly advise the use of Silicone grease (not petroleum grease). Dow Corning makes some for labratory glassware. the glycerine is not nearly as effective. Liquid Soap has been suggested but i have not tried it.

 

 

control arm bushings_1.jpg

control arm bushings_2.jpg

control arm bushings_3.jpg

control arm bushings_4.jpg

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76 2002 Sienabraun

2015 BMW F10

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I used essentially the same thing when I did my cars, except I used plastic plumbing pipe, threaded rods and very thick washers.  Those plastic pipes are very strong under compression, and will conform to uneven surfaces when under compression.  Worked fine for me.  None of the front suspension bushings were particularly difficult to remove or install with my home-made bushing pullers/installers.

 

cheers

mike

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'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

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  • 7 years later...

Invest in BMW OEM part, use lots of grease and heat gun to soften the rubber as you work it in. 

 

I used a big carriage bolt, big washer on one side and socket, or metal pipe on the other side to push the bushing in.

The aftermarket bushing will not go in no matter what you do. They are oversized.

 

 

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  • 6 months later...

I am on this task right now. Just wanted to confirm what someone already mentioned. I ordered the outer bushing from Autohauz AZ. Strugled with the install and came across this writing. The matter of fact for me is that the Autohaus AZ supplied bushing has the right number on it but it simply is too big. I ordered new set from BMW and they are about 1.5 mm smaller in radius. I am sure they install like breeze. So word of cation even if the part number is correct in the box it does not mean you got the right part. If the bushing does not install with reasonable force it is too big and thus wrong part.

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What brand name was on the 'too big' bushing?

 

'FEBI' somehow stands for 'we can make rocker arms to 0.01mm, but everything else is +- 2mm'

 

Lemforererder used to be very good, but it is now ZF'fed and Sached and thus, somewhat suspect.

 

t

 

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"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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I recently did this; used Uro on the inners and BMW on the outers.  About the same degree of difficulty.

 

Found that a hose clamp worked well to control the bushing.  Simple to ease off on its tightness as the bushing goes into the cavity.  Liberal use of Dawn dish soap.

 

IMG_0992.thumb.jpeg.0155da769f181dd0d24d770271050307.jpegIMG_0994.thumb.jpeg.75daa631544dd905adc6d6361567f29a.jpegIMG_1078.thumb.jpeg.6cf20f74a03b319f59d6c1fe6a9820bb.jpeg

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Luis

 

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