engine and drivetrain CV joint rebuild shop recommendations

[2joejoe2]

Anyone here have a shop that they recommend for CV joint rebuilding? 

 

Mine are pretty worn and sloppy 

[Simeon]

Buy new joints and fit to half shafts yourself. Ireland Engineering sell the joints. 

[2joejoe2]

For the IE CVs....it would be about 220$ ish an axle if you get the boots too.  seems a bit high

 

I was hoping I could find a shop to rebuild them for cheaper........ I have heard of it being done for around 100$ an axle. 

[AceAndrew]

 "Rebuild" can mean one of the following... 

 

1) clean out, inspect (hopefully very well), and repack.  If yours are worn (a lot of slop), then these steps will not fix your problem.

 

2) Replace with new cv joints.  aka, what Simeon suggested.

[2joejoe2]

Don't the rebuild shops hone and put larger balls in the CVs to get rid of the slop? 

 

anyone can clean and repack a CV but thats not gonna get rid of the slop 

[M3M3M3]

2 hours ago, 2joejoe2 said:

Don't the rebuild shops hone and put larger balls in the CVs to get rid of the slop? 

 

never heard of that.

 

new cv's.....

[Simeon]

2 hours ago, 2joejoe2 said:

Don't the rebuild shops hone and put larger balls in the CVs to get rid of the slop? 

 

anyone can clean and repack a CV but thats not gonna get rid of the slop 

 

It's hard to see how anyone could do that and make it cheaper than new joints. Having tooling that would allow you to bring in generic CV joints- Set them up, mill them and then fit oversized balls. Maybe for a Bugatti. 

[Son of Marty]

Machining them is out, any honing or grinding will cut through what ever hardening is left (if any) and they won't last for very long after that, C/V joints really don't wear much if properly lubed and kept clean by intact boots, When you disassemble them look for dark spots or rings on the bearing surface and cage if you see any that's the end of the case hardening and they are shot if you find any.

[2joejoe2]

alright, well thanks for the replies.  

 

has anyone here used the IE ones? I have heard mixed things about EMPI brand products. 

[AceAndrew]

I have.... and sold about 100pcs before I left IE.  Some random chintzy EMPI bits can be dodgy, but they run their own CV factory and do a lot of them for OEM's.  Like any larger manufacturing company you are going to have the good stuff and the bad stuff.  The CV's are some of the good stuff (tight tolerances, properly hardened, etc.). 

[echappe]

original cv joints are pretty tough, Are they clicking, are they dry with no grease at all. What you are calling slop may well be normal play. U need to take them apart and inspect them for scoring and burnt and pitted spots on the balls and races

[2joejoe2]

yes they are clicking when I change directions....I will inspect as you suggest this winter when I tear the rear end apart. 

[72ITB]

Just cleaned and repacked mine for the first time it was not a difficult job and really rewarding. I would check the stub axels and half shafts for a clicking noise, I have had stub axels go. CV would likely be a "constant" noise if they were the problem. (which my axels going bad were btw)

If you plan on tearing down your rear end you'll have a chance to inspect it all.

 

I just heard of someone doing CVs for $550.

 

tim

[TobyB]

Quote

yes they are clicking when I change directions

Make sure it's not your 36mm hub nuts,

or your driveshaft bolts,

or your halfshaft bolts.

 

The standard 2002 halfshaft is not at much angularity, and shouldn't click or clonk...

...while the above nuts and bolts have a history of doing so when loose.

jus' cuz,

t

 

[2joejoe2]

I will check all of those things you mentioned 

 

Next question.....have two sets of CV axles one of them is the ealier design and it sort of self centers on the diff hub and drive axle hub.. the other just has a flush face and does not self center with the hubs.  Is it necesary to check for run out when installing the later style CV axle?