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Engine Freeze Protection


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As Steve says, antifreeze is the primary protection against freezing but if you are not using the car (or you are not absolutely sure what's in there) then drain the coolant and leave it open so expansion doesn't damage anything. 

rtheriaque wrote:

Carbs: They're necessary and barely controlled fuel leaks that sometimes match the air passing through them.

My build blog:http://www.bmw2002faq.com/blog/163-simeons-blog/

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42 minutes ago, Hans said:

you need to drain the block which means getting the bolt out of the side. Are you sure there is no antifreeze in there? Get a tester that works on cold fluid and see what it says. How cold will it get?




With the exception of racing cars, I thought everyone used antifreeze, as it also increases the coolant's boiling point.  But, yes, if you're in a -10-degree locale and the existing coolant is only effective to, say, -10, I'd certainly drain the radiator, block, and heater.  A 50/50 mixture of antifreeze and water is good in temperatures down to something like -30 or -40 degrees.  My '61 F-350 lives in Maine, parked and garaged during winter, and it has never had a problem.






1976 2002 Polaris, 2742541 (original owner)

1973 2002tii Inka, 2762757 (not-the-original owner)

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FYI, the block drain is under the exhaust manifold and looks like (and is) an ordinary-looking 17mm bolt.  If there's coolant in the block currently, be prepared with a funnel and hose leading to a catch bucket, as if left to its own devices when you remove the bolt the coolant will run everywhere--down on the crossmember and drip all over the place.  I installed a drain cock in its place some years ago--I found one with threads that were compatible, or recut the threads--don't remember which--but it's not been leaking for the past 15-20 years so it must be OK.  




'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
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15 hours ago, maharaja said:

As both engines are non op getting antifreeze in the system

may be impossible

i guess draining them may be best

 some version of a pulley on a drill hooked to the water pump with a belt may circulate enough to get enough fluid everywhere, as long as the rest of the cooling bits (rad/hoses/etc) are there.


For some reason, I'd think a dry block would rust a little on the inside.


Just a thought.

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