steering and suspension How to get new Bilstein shock into front strut?

[wilfredski]

My '74 2002tii had the original oil filled dampers in the front struts. I'm trying to replace them with new Bilstein shocks but they seem VERY tight. So tight I can't get them in! I thought removing them was supposed to be the hard part!

 

I'm wondering if my struts are incompatible with the new shocks. Does anyone know? From my attached pics can anyone tell me if the struts are supposed to have the inner sleeve mine have? The very top of the inner sleeves seem to be messed up a little bit, but the rest of the tube is in perfect condition. I've tried pulling back the tops to allow the new struts in, but it doesn't seem to be enough. I can only get them in a couple of millimetres.

 

[02tom]

Use a wire wheel on an extension with a power drill or similar to clean out the tube of rust. Clean the threads too on the outside of the strut tube. Done this on the last few installs I've done and it goes so much better

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[harold]

Looks like the remains of a prior cartridge is still inside.  The original strut housing is the same diameter all the way down.   See if you can get that loose and pull it out.  Try something like an exhaust removal air chisel. 

[wilfredski]

Thanks Tom. Tried the wire wheel, but still too tight.

 

Harold, this is the outer sleeve from the original oil damper assembly. These were the early type of dampers before self-contained shocks were used. There was no self-contained strut in there. I had the same thought as you and wonder if this sleeve can be removed, but it seems absolutely stuck tight. Anyone have experience removing or dealing with this sleeve?

 

[Mike Self]

IIRC that inner sleeve is much thinner metal than the strut tube itself, so you should be able to deform it by driving a punch between it and the strut tube.  Deform the top of the sleeve enough, squirt some penetrating oil between the two and let it sit.  Then you should be able to get a grip on the sleeve with vise grips or arc-joint pliers, twist it back and forth until it loosens up.  Or as Harold suggested, use a curved air chisel to split the sleeve down as far as you can.  Heating the strut tube will help too.

 

mike

[wilfredski]

Thanks Mike and Harold. Yes, the inner sleeve is thinner metal than the strut tube. Any idea how and where this inner sleeve is held in place? There's a definite gap between it and the strut tube but it seems to be rock solid.

 

I'm just making absolutely sure this tube is actually removable before I have a crack. i.e. not welded at the bottom or something! Once I attack this tube, there's no going back!!!

 

If I do successfully remove the inner tube, It will mean quite a gap between the new bilstein shock and the strut wall. Is this right? Should there be a 2-3mm or so gap around the shock and the wall?

[Simeon]

There is only that gap at the very top. The strut tube does thin down about 2" down. The Bilstein will be a close fit but not tight, the location of the strut is really determined by the gland but at the top that centres the strut rod. 

[AceAndrew]

Simeon is correct, the insert is centered by the gland nut.  

 

There is a decent chance that the bottom portion of the sleeve is fused to the housing.  It will be a rough time, just have patience.

[wilfredski]

I love the knowledge on this forum! Thanks Simeon and AceAndrew.

 

The depth of the existing sleeve is a couple of inches shorter than the length of the new bilstein shock (I measured inside to the bottom of the current sleeve). Am I right in assuming there will be a fair bit more depth available once the sleeve is removed?

[Simeon]

The Bilstein will go right to the bottom of the strut tube and will be secured into compression as the gland nut is tightened. 

[TobyB]

Quote

Looks like the remains of a prior cartridge is still inside.

 

This.  I would bet what came out of your 'wet' strut was, in fact, the guts of a cartridge.

The sleeve on the original wet strut was quite a bit smaller than the i/d of the housing.

 

And that sleeve may be really rusted in there- it looks nasty.

You can drill up from the bottom and attempt to punch it out if nothing else works,

but I'd try all sorts of other things first.

 

hth

 

t

 

[tzei]

And when you do get them out, put some oil in the struts with those new Bilsteins - helps to cool them and they will never ever rust in place.

[OriginalOwner]

 

Quote

Looks like the remains of a prior cartridge is still inside.

 

I Agree with harold and toby.  

I had that problem around 1997.  What I was told by a BMW shop guy in Santa Barbara was,  "You now have a piece of junk, and 2 choices:  get another strut assembly or try this method I've used."

 

What he said to do, and what I did:  

• remove the strut assembly from the car
• using an acetylene torch, burn a small hole in the bottom of the strut tube
• using a "long" steel rod and a sledge hammer, drive out the old tube
• weld closed the hole in the bottom of the strut tube

Worked just fine, no problems since.

 

Cheers,

 

Carl

 

Edited October 27, 2016 by OriginalOwner

[wilfredski]

Thanks Carl. I've taken to the sleeve with a long flat bladed screwdriver and chisel. Looks like it's spot welded in down the sides! This is now definitely above my capability.

 

I've taken it to an engineering mechanic who does vehicle modifications and fabrication. I've passed on all your advice regarding drilling/welding the bottom to push it out. 

 

Fingers crossed! Keep the tips coming please!

[wilfredski]

An update for those who are faced with this issue in the future:

 

It's all good news. The sleeve insert finally came out. You can see the mechanic welded a bolt to the insert so it could be pulled out of the strut. He said it was well and truly wedged in there and took quite a bit of force to remove. But here's the pics showing the insert narrowing at the bottom showing why the new shocks are longer than the original oil filled dampers.

 

New Billy HD shocks slid in perfectly with a little oil. H&R sport springs completed the install!