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Pros & Cons of Sound Deadener in the doors

Captain Manly

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Ok, I know in the past that there have been discussions with this subject.  But given the large amount of non-reinforced sheet metal on the doors (with the exception of the one piece located on later models thanks to the DOT), as well as the distinctive rattle of the door latch mechanisms, I am really tempted to do so.  I am planning to put in 6" speakers (well the previous owner already did so I am carrying on the tradition) so to mitigate any further vibrations I am deciding to pursue this option


I have used deadener all over the car with no separation failure by using a heat gun to really work it in.  I already have Duraliner applied which it's rough finish would increase the grip and with that internal piece already there it could be used as a "ledge" for the deadener to sit on.  


Just to be sure, is there anything else to add to stack the deck?

TIA as always!!



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Water runs through the inside of the door by design so any nooks and crannies it can get behind and hang around will increase chances of rust. A smooth surface with sealed edges and a non porous finish will help the water pass on through or dry up quickly. 


If the sound deadening stays stays as a smooth, well adhered, non porous finish then it helps. If it comes away in places and the residual glue allows water to gather against the paint finish, or lips and edges hold water from running free, then it could be a problem. Remember, you don't need to cover the whole thing. Just enough to take the drum out of it is enough. 


Good prep is key and it sounds like you have that covered. 

rtheriaque wrote:

Carbs: They're necessary and barely controlled fuel leaks that sometimes match the air passing through them.

My build blog:http://www.bmw2002faq.com/blog/163-simeons-blog/

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I used a spray-on sound-deadener/insulation using an undercoating gun (branded Silent Running). It sort of looks like the popcorn finish sprayed on drywall.  It is light, offers sound deadening and panel stiffening, and is a great moisture barrier since it seals every crevice (particularly the door bottom).

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If you have a 74 or later 02--or an earlier one with a replacement door that has the side beam in it--make sure whatever you use for sound deadening doesn't bridge the gap between the inside of the door skin and the side beam.  If that's allowed to happen, it'll form a dandy water trap, and in a few years you'll wonder why your door is rusting out about halfway up the side--just above the knee trim.  Even with tight sill seals, an amazing amount of water finds its way down inside a car's door (why we have an acella cloth--the plastic stuck to the door under the upholstery panel).  You don't want to impede its flow to the drain holes at the door bottom. 


When the gummint mandated those beams in 1974, a number of cars had exactly that problem:  Pintos come to mind, and I think Vegas too.  Don't let it happen to your '02





'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

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