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pehlivanov_tii

My 1973 Euro 2002tii

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(edited)

Some interesting parts scored:

- CR Dogleg Getrag 245 Transmission, removed from E21 M10 Alpina. This gearbox will be installed if i don't find Getrag 235/5. Actually i already had interest in two gearboxes, but i missed them, so this one is getting closer and closer to the install:

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- Supersprint headers:

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- Becker Monza radio in great condition:

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- CMR / Borrani 6.5 J:

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Edited by pehlivanov_tii

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On 7-8-2017 at 0:31 PM, pehlivanov_tii said:

 

Assembling:

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Any tips on how to remove (and install back) the glass from the housing?

Awesome updates! it's looking great

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(edited)
7 hours ago, D.martijn said:

 

Any tips on how to remove (and install back) the glass from the housing?

Awesome updates! it's looking great

 

Removing the glass is by cutting the seal from both back and front side with carving / exacto knife. When you cut the old seal the glass should fall off with very slight pushing. Don't try to heat the glass, because it can crack. Cutting the old seal will make it.

 

About the installing, here is my explanation in the previous post. If you have any questions let me know i will try to explain more detailed:

 

On 8/7/2017 at 1:31 PM, pehlivanov_tii said:

I couldn't take pictures from installing the seals, but here are my tips: Put the seals on hot water for few minutes to get softer. Then install the seal on the glass lens. Use some lubricant which will not affect the rubber to put the seal easier. Then use tiny rope, and put it in the seal canal where the metal housing lip should sit. Use some pliers to expand the outer housing lip / board where the seal will sit. Because if you dont do it, the lens and the seal will not get in. Leave the lens + the seal and the installed rope on a soft surface (because we dont want to break the glass when pushing lol) and start pushing the housing from above. Make sure that both ends of the rope are in the housing, not outside of the housing! When pushing the housing from above start pulling one of the rope's ends. When pulling the rope the things should happen and the seal will get behind the housing lip. It is kinda hard to explain without pictures, but i hope you will understand me. After installing the lens and the seal, use silicone hammer to straiten back the outer housing lip / board. 

Edited by pehlivanov_tii

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(edited)

Unfortunately i couldn't find all of my pictures from the wiring harness refurbishing, but here are some of them. You have to be very patient doing this, it takes a lot of time. First of all i suggest to untape your entire harness and inspect for some torn cables or worn wire isolation. I found at least 4-5 wires that were with torn isolation, also bad connections, oxidized wires, etc. My harness was very dirty, oxidized on places and part of it was painted in Golf yellow from some repainting lol.

I bought from a Polish electrical store cable terminals and PVC isolators for terminals, exactly the same like the ones that BMW used. And replaced pretty much all of them. You will need crimp pliers, cable strippers, solder and many other things. Important note!!! - if you replace a terminal always solder over the crimped area. This is recommended, because the terminals were crimped to the wires much stronger from the factory than your new crimping. I also suggest using heat shrink over the new crimping or some wiring wax / paste to keep the moisture out of the connection. Good finish result is also replacing the factory heat shrinks if it's torn. For that obviously you will need a heat gun.

 

Here is how i found my wiring harness - i inspected the bad spots and made a list what i need to order to fix them. Also put some notes which cables goes where:

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I also ordered new wires from Autosparks.co.uk to replace the broken ones. And new heat shrinks. It is a great source for wires for oldtimer cars - i used them, because they have many color combinations and now my new wires match to the old ones and the wiring diagram.
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This is how replaced heat shrink and cable terminal look like. This has been done on many cables:

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Fixing a bad "Solder point":

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Replaced the headlight wiring. See the old vs. new one. Original wires were painted and some of them broken. The H4 socket is also from Autosparks:

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Replaced the heat shrink of the front harness. I bought from another UK online shop grey heat shrink to match to the original color. Which was not grey anymore lol.:

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The front harness seems to be ok now, so it's time to put it on the car. Before that - cleaning from the old tape. Each wire and socket was carefully cleaned - Before and after:

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After:

 

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Edited by pehlivanov_tii

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Wiper linkage and motor refurbishing. Sandblasting, zinc plating and powdercoating in original colors. Before taking the rods for zinc plating i polished the areas where they contact with the other arms. I thought that it will be better these surfaces to be more smooth. I also lubed well these areas. Also tested and lubed the motor, changed the heat shrink wire insulation and cleaned the plastic cover. You will see also that i used heat and sound insulation panels with the dimensions of the original ones to copy them. And painted them in Golf.

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Here is the work on my hood latch bar. Here is the moment to tell that you have to install first the wiper mechanism, then the hood latch bar and the heater box should be the last. If you leave the hood latch bar last (like i did, and it's wrong), you have to mount on the car the center rod only and then to put the left and right lock bars. I have parted out this, sanded, zinc plated and installed again. Take some pictures before parting out to see how those "rivets" are installed and the springs. Parting out is by punching out the rivets. The hardest thing here is to put back the center spring. I actually dont remember how i did this, but it was something like - put 2 of 3 rivets on the rod. Put the 3rd rivet on 60-70% of its way, then use your legs, arms and a flat screwdriver to put the spring in position and then with some of the free hands (if you have any left :D ) poke the 3rd rivet on 100% to hold the spring in the right position.

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Edited by pehlivanov_tii
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Glad that it would help you. I have something missing on my cold start harness, but i havent looked it in detail yet to see what exactly is missing. I just remember there was some cut wires. :( Can you take some detail photos when you do yours? Thanks

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I surely will.

 

Here's what the harness looks like (web photo):

 

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The original relays are NLA, but available used.  I decided to get the replacement version. 

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I am looking for the socket for it.  I hope to get it from my mechanic's Bosch electrical guy.  If not, I'll make it with separate spade terminals bound together.

 

Here is a close-up of the circuit.  It's six wires to the relay: Power from the ignition switch through fuse box, second hot wire from starter circuit, ground, one pair to the Thermo time switch (I'll have to make a plug for that), and a pair to the injector valve.

 

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I added a marked-up wiring diagram, I hope it's useful!

 

 

 

Wiring_Diagram 2002Tii w notes.pdf

Wiring Diagram Color-coded.pdf

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(edited)

A loooot of sandblasting. The vacuum cleaner for the sand blast machine got broken and here is how i prepared myself :D

 

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And now here is a new challenge. As you know the handles, brake light rings and the turn signal housings are made of cheaper, different metal material that got some small pits with the time. So i decided to sandblast my brakelights and handles too. This shitty material is not easy for chroming too. A local galvanize shop told me that they even dont want to see these things. After i told them that i can sandblast and remove the old chrome, to polish the details and prepare them they told me they can try. The chance is 50/50. So i have to polish these good and i will keep you in touch if its going to work.

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And the last one is not a big progress at all just wanted this post to have also some finished product - a relay polished with fresh zinc plated bracket. :)

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Edited by pehlivanov_tii

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Excellent progress!  I have some older door handles, rear reflector housings and rear chrome trim rings if you need them - shipping most likely prohibitive though.

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Jim, thanks. I am using a Bulgarian company located in US that delivers every month from US to Bulgaria. So far i have collected one or two more sets of handles, i am not sure about the brake light chrome rings, but if i see that the chroming is not going well i will contact you. :)

 

Here is my steering column. This is my original one gone through the sandblasting, zinc plating and powdercoating. You can see how i cut out the section that has to be painted how it should be original. There is a photo compared to an old column from my parts car. Also i put NOS ignition console witch came with new igntion switch. Note the blue marks on the bolts. The good thing here is that the chrome section where the key goes is not scratched. Puting the console on the column was not very easy, i had to stretch it good, i guess the paint layer is thicker. My original ignition console is available and put in box for spare. :) 

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