My 1973 Euro 2002tii

[Mach Schnell]

Awesome work and great info. Thanks for sharing. I am impressed!

[jgerock]

Always look forward to your updates!  I recommend grinding the sharp edges of those metal brackets that secure the two column switch sockets. They are sharp and will cut you when working under the dash. This happened to me on my 73 last weekend when replacing the speedometer.

[pehlivanov_tii]

Thank you, guys! Jgerock, good advice! I didnt have much time in the last months, actually. In my job i have too much overtime work during the winter and in the garage is very cold. Anyway, i polished the sunroof rails.

 

 

 

 

For protecting the polished aluminium i used Poorboy’s wheel sealant.

Also repainted the panel for the sunroof headliner. It was rusted and the metal is thin for sandblasting. So i sanded it on hand. 

Also i was missing that little black plastic things that goes on each back side of the long rails that acts like stoppers for the sunroof cables. They are NLA and hard to find. Guess on which car i found them. Everytime i get some spares from this parts car i say to myself that this is it, there are no more needed parts here, but i am wrong.  also i put it’s sunroof rails as spares in the basement.

 

And some seals and headliner. The headliner came with preparations for the metal hooks that hold it. The seals are for brakelights, front and rear window, sunroof and B column trim:

Edited January 28, 2018 by pehlivanov_tii

[pehlivanov_tii]

It was a very busy period and didnt have much time for posting, but there are updates.

 

1. Some powdercoated parts which were sandblasted in the previous page - Tii air cleaner, hardware parts from the doors and some other bits. By the way - the supports that hold the big door glass are actualy NOS. All my old ones were very bad rusted. But i found one very old glass shop here in the end of the city. These guys had few sets of NOS glass for our cars with the supports. They had only surface rust and repainted them. 

 

2. Assembled the pedal box. All parts were new from W&N. I had some issues with fitting some of their spacers between the long bolt and the pedals so i made custom ones:

 

3. Dashboard - scored a crack free two piece dashboard from an euro tii (like mine). The dashboard is very fresh looking:

 

4. Got some new tii pistons from QSC:

 

5. Door hardware zinc plated and door latch install:

 

6. Fuse box refurbishment. It turned out very well. I put some electrical silicone grease on the connectors:

 

7. Started with some sunroof assembly. When i took the car for sunroof repair the old mechanic told me that the original Golde motor is totally destroyed. There were much water in it and it was true. When i opened it all i saw is rust lol. He made me a custom bracket and installed me a motor from VW. I didnt want to have a VW part on my car so i gave the original motor another try, i took it to another service. There were old man, the founder of the service, i asked him very kindly to try something so he worked on it much time, took it apart, cleaned everything and returned it to me with the words “now it is like new”. The original mounting of the motor was destroyed by those custom mods with parts from VW, so it took me a lot of time to put it in the original way:

 

 

[jgerock]

+1 on your progress.  Wish I was helping you on this great tii project.

[pehlivanov_tii]

The last 6 months were very busy and i cant say that i have big progress. I signed in a masters program which is very intensive and i am coming home after work and university  at around 10 pm, and as you can guess i dont have power for nothing. But anyway. 

I wanted to ask you about my Scheel 401/501 or however is the model called. I have a great pair of seats without any signs of wear, but also i do not have bracketa for them. I have their originals rails which are mounted to the seats, but only rails without any brackets. And i have stock 02 rails and brackets. What do i need to fit them and to be foldable? which type of bracket do i need, because i have seen few types and i am getting a bit confused. 

 

Now my little progress:

1. Rear taillight chrome rings - i told you that before buying new ones i want to try to polish the old ones and rechrome them. I did that and it has good efect, but you have to be lucky. First i sandblasted them with very thin and smooth sand, because the guys from the galvanice shop told me that all other chroming should be removed. But first ask your galvanizer, because here is a trick - pretty much they all have chemicals from removing chrome, but they will probably not say that to you, because it is easier for them. I polished two rings, gave them and pne turned out perfect, the other one is 8/10. If you dont see it from close you may not notice difference between both them. They told me that both rings were reacting completely different during the chrome process. The problem ring was making some reactions when it was dropped in the chrome bathtub.

- polishing:

 

- chromed

 

And this is the one that didnt turn out so well. What do you think?

 

- reflectors painted with light reflecting chrome spray. When i was spraying on the back i saved the original date on the taillights:

 

 

 

2. Door handles - i found very very nice set of used door handles. Like the chrome rings on the taillights i was planning to do the same on the handles, but they turned our to be a lot harder for polishing than the rings, because of the bad chrome spots which were everywhere and very deep. As much as i sanded they were getting more and more, like they have been hiding under the chrome. So i founded ones without visibles bad chrome spots. The door handles came with those fancy plastic foldable keys, which actually i didnt find to be so nice as it was moving to much and actually i found it as very uncomfortable when you are actually using the key for lock / unlock. So i recode the lock to use the key of my NOS ignition console which is with NOS ignition switch and locks. (There are pictures in the back posts). The process of recoding is very easy, i followed an youtube video. You have to change these little things in the lock until when you put the key none of them is protruding.

 

you have to unscrew this bolt. Push it down and be careful because it is spring loaded and it will fly away:

 

no key inserted:

 

Wrong key combination - you see there are two pins protruding:

 

Correct key combination:

 

3. Power sunroof switch. If your is not working it is probably of bad contacts inside (i uploaded more pics to be foundable on the web, because i searched for pics of the button in the web but i found nothing). The switch is very simple, just get a little sandpaper and clean the contacts inside:

 

These are actually the bad spots:

 

4. I did the wood piece with the dome

light and started attching the headliner a bit:

 

5. Tried to polish the windows with glass polish - no result, you better dont waste your time. No pics here, just FYI. Mine actualle are not bat at all, just wanted to go through this hoping they will get some extra shine, but they are as before. If you have some scratches you can start from the rough sandpapers, like i did on my headlight lenses back in some posts. But I haven’t tested this to side glass! So keep that in mind. 

 

 

[ray_]

Very nice! It was likely said, but electric powered sunroofs are very rare I think.

 

Those things in the lock tumbler that you changed to match your keys are called wafers. You  can also file down a wafer that is sticking up too much

 

Post a photo of your Scheels. Dave Varco makes adapter brackets for Recaros. They may fit the Scheels or if not, he can make some that will likely fit. Have a look here:  https://www.2002parts.com/bmw/recaro-seat-parts/rec-bracket-02.html

 

Cheers,

Edited March 5, 2019 by ray_

[pehlivanov_tii]

Thanks, this is how they look from the bottom.

[jgerock]

Nice progress!  I think you can buy the sunroof switch new from Walloth Nesch.

[pehlivanov_tii]

I posted a while ago my Close ratio Getrag 245 gearbox. The gearbox needs some repair on the housing and 2nd gear synchronizer and i will have to repair it. But meanwhile i found another challenge which was a very good deal - Getrag 235/5. But wish me luck to get this thing working. I was looking very careful, as much as i could before buying it if it has all the parts, and as far as i am looking all parts are there without visible damage on them, but why it was parted out - nobody knows.

 

I hope i am not repeating myself with some things:

1. Vent frames polished:

 

2. NOS driver piece “salt & pepper”, New clutch and some other parts:

 

3. Installing the sunroof drain tubes was harder than i expected. The rears were not a big problem because the column is wider. But for the fronts i had to be more creative. I ran a wire through the tube which from one of the ends is stucked with some bigger detail that can not go through the tube. And simply you have to pull the wire from the other end to get the tube through the body column.

 

this worked fine for the rears. But i couldnt run even the wire through the front A columns, you know there are some foams in the column and the wire cant go through them, i needed harder thing which does not bends, so i used a sunroof cable which i attached to the wire with cable ties.

 

4. Some work on the handbrake:

 

5. I installed the door handles, not a big progress, but i like how the car is getting step by step more and more alive by every installed detail  

 

[pehlivanov_tii]

Long time no updates, but i keep moving, slowly, but keep doing some stuff.

The condition of the mystery 235/5 gearbox has been inspected and the result is:

 

- worn bearings

- broken and after that bad repaired counter shaft

- good synchros.

 

I got very nice counter shaft retro engineering guys. I bought from them also the gasket kit and one of the bearings that i could not find aftermarket. The other bearings i managed to find aftermarket bringing the old bearings in the bearings shop. Two of the bearings did not have this channels so i took them to a guy with spinning machine to cut them. For such small things i am trying to find cheaper way instead of paying 4-5 times more.

These are the photos of all new parts. They are ready for mounting, but if it is only this the gearbox will counted as a bargain for this cost.

 

Tail lights - i still have these rechromed rings, but however i decided that the result could be a bit better, so i bought new ones. I fitted them and also put the new badges of the rear panel. The 2002tii badge is from touring, because for sedan they are NLA. The touring one is shorter with 2 cm, but I preferred this new one instead of correct one but old and polished. Before installing the tail lights i sprayed where the seal will contact the body with cavity wax, just in case if some water go in there to protect it from rusting.

 

- Vent frames - I installed the new vent frames seals and door glass as well. Installation of the seals and puting the glass back went smoothly. I had drilled the old rivets of the vent frame and after installing the glass and the seals i inserted new ones.

For installing the seal i used silicone spray. I used pliers to pull up the two ends of the seal until you see on the next photo how they are fully inserted.

Refurbished the mechanisms too.

 

-Parts - i have now pretty much most of the needed parts. Brake lines, cooling system parts, handbrake cables, 5 speed speedo cable, engine bushings, badges, trim stuff and many engine parts, but for the engine i will prepare another post soon.

 

....

At last i will post two actual photos of the car. Ignore the front grills with no black slats on it. This will be fixed.  and a photo of the engine bay now, after i fitted some parts and linked the fuse box:

Edited January 13, 2021 by pehlivanov_tii

[pehlivanov_tii]

Another small update.

Engine block - I just got my engine block for refinish the cylinders and bore to 90 mm to use it with the Tii QSC pistons. Also here are the Hasting pistons rings that i have waited for few months to arrive and their correct part number for 90 mm pistons. I spent a lot of time prepairing the engine block for painting which means that i had to remove all the old oil that was on the block. I used high temp spray paint and i think it turned out very well. 

 

- Cylinder head

I received my cylinder head from full refurbishing too. And painted it again with high temp paint

 

- Limited Slip Differential - probably back in the story I told you that with the car i have got a very nice E21 differential which i was about to install in the car. However I decided to go as much stock as i can, so i sold it and bought a factory 02 40% LSD from a Tii (also the date of production is very close to mine so the year and month matches), with 3.64 ratio. I noticed the differences in the housings between the 02 and E21 diffs and 02 open and LSD diffs. I will get this one inspected and refurbished of course, but i have some questions and if people with factory LSDs can  share their opinions that would be great:

- i was surprised that when you turn one of the shafts by hand the 40% diff actually acts like open diff and the other shaft turns in the opposite side. Is this the same with yours guys?

- how do you measure the actual lock up. Also in wallothnesch i found several sizes of discs 1.9, 2.0 and 2.1 mm. Could you tell me what is the stock set up - how many discs and what sizes for the 40% lock up?

[pehlivanov_tii]

I am lucky to have a girlfriend who each weekend tells me “is there anything that we can do to the car?  “ and she helps me a lot. In the last few months:

1. The engine parts were cleaned and painted. I know the clean aluminium color is good enough, but here is how the cleaning turned out to me. Some of the parts are oxidized, so i decided to paint them. And i like the look. It was a lot of cleaning. A dremel tool was pretty helpful in the hard to reach spots.

here is how my perfectly cleaned and degreased parts were looking and the reason that i decided to paint them.

painted with high temp paint and with clear coat after this:

 

 

2. Bought some parts and gaskets for the engine assembly and a NOS cold start valve:

 

 

3. I have the Getrag 235/5 Gearbox assembled. In the previous posts i explained how i scored the gearbox in parts in a box with unknown condition for a unbelievable good price. The counter shaft needed replacing, the bearings too, but i found all of them except one ina generic bearing shop. The mechanic told me that the synchros were good (fingers crossed)

 

4. My mechanic disassembled the Kugelfischer pump. It seems that one of the valves are broken. I managed to score single spare valves, but decided to buy one more Kugelfischer pump again at a very good price. All parts will be ultrasound cleaned and he will assemble everything and i have to find a diesel center and i hope they will be able to help me with the pressure testing. You can see in the first photo how the valve on the right looks different. This is the broken one and the piston was stuck. As far as i understood this is not a common issue with those pumps.

 

 

Edited May 11, 2021 by pehlivanov_tii

[pehlivanov_tii]

I completed the headliner process. Almost, only the sunroof headliner piece lefts but i am working on it.

I will share my experience with it and few more advices additional to the write ups here. 
1. OEM headliner needs to be restiched because the original glue dont hold well where you have to insert the bows. You can see how i restiched it and you can see where it actually was the problem. 

2. Started to fit the headliner with the clips. Getting out the wrinkles on the c pillars is the hardest part. The position of the bows is a key for success. I am talking about the sunroof cars, because non sunroof cars i think all the bows fit in holes. For example i used new board that holds the dome light and which actually holds the second bow. So the hooks i used to attach the bow there, i moved them several times to find the perfect position of the second bow. You need to start pulling the headliner as much as you can from the rear window. If there are wrinkles something is not attached in its perfect position. In my case i still have some minimal wrinkles there but could be worse.

3. I used 3M 90 spray adhesive. You need to spray this on both surfaces to hold well. On the sunroof section i used one more type of glue. I see most of installations included clips on the sunroof section, but i didnt go that way. I pulled the fabric, sprayed the 3M spray adhesive but i left around half inch of the material which i treated with second type of glue - second Loctite glue. So i pulled, glued and after one second it was fixed. Also i made that because i was worried how the 3M spray adhesive will hold in the hot days, because i saw that it was not much heat resistant. For the windows i am not so worried because the window seals are holding the fabric in place, but is not exactly the same with the sunroof section. Also i left more fabric material to glue and actually i glued a fabric even over the holes for the sunroof aluminium trim, so actually even the screws of the trim should hold something. I am happy how well it turned out. You have got to be very careful on the edges to not cut too much material.

 

 

I found metal sunroof cables so i prepared the cables for installing. They look bad, but they will do perfectly the work.

 

and put the rear window. Without the tool for the trim. With extra person, i put the seal on the glass first and fitted it to the car with the rope trick. Then with water i started putting the chrome trim and only with a flat screw driver on small sections started to fit it from each side with pulling the seal over the trim edge. It wasnt the best thing you can imagine and it is tricky but it works. 

[jgerock]

Great progress!  Congratulations!