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Handbrake Adjustment - 17mm deep offset wrench


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yes, I know what you mean.  I drilled holes in a two foot long piece of wood and bolted it to the drum, so I had that leverage.  I also think it helps to have the drum pulled in tight. 


I can see where it would be handy to have the proper wrench, so it can be done easily with the wheel on.


drum adjustment.jpg


(It' funny.  With the new photo loading FAQ situation, I no longer need Photobucket.  My problem can be finding the old photos on my computer, because I do not label them very well, so I went to pull this one off Photobucket.  Well,  there is a problem loading PB files now and it does not work like it used to (right Jim?), so I downloaded my own photo back from PB to upload here.  Where there's a will, there's a way... as they say).



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Its near impossible to adjust the brake shoe adjusters with the wheel on. Do what 76mintgrun'02 suggests and put a spacer on the wheel studs and tighten the lug nuts to hold the brake drum in place so you can adjust the adjusters with a regular wrench.

1976 BMW 2002 Chamonix. My first love.

1972 BMW 2002tii Polaris. My new side piece.

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13 hours ago, Buckeye said:

I need to adjust handbrake on newly installed brake shoes with wheels on and like to know if a ordinary 17mm deep offset wrench will work or has to be specific offset (i;e. 40 or 60 deg offset). Thanks.


I think they photoshopped that picture! There is no way that a ring spanner will fit between the adjuster and the shock lower mount, even if you file a bit off it!


As Simeon says, the tool kit 17mm spanner fits just fine, except its too short to get any real leverage with, which you will need as the adjusters will be rusted stuck. At least it wont round of the adjuster.


I like Toby's spanner trick best as opposed to Minty's plank.

02tii 2751928 (2582)

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Thanks for everyone's input. eccentric bolts have been moving freely. I used spacers (1/4" long tubes) and wheel studs to do initial adjustments.

@JohnH I agree with your statement regarding that picture is photoshopped. Original BMW tool # 34 2 000 was made by a couple German co. 







@'76Mintgrun'02 (Master Tinker) - Thanks for the link in your last reply. NOW like to see you get busy and have a prototype made in your shop this week and then share pictures. I have included basic dimensions for your reference.

17mm wrench.PNG






76 2002 Sienabraun

2015 BMW f10

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Super cheap option and allows you to keep the wheels on. Go to your local pawn shop, cheap tool warehouse, etc... and buy a cheap, long-ish 17mm open end wrench.  Put it in your vise and bend the open end to shape... adding a little heat will help.  You might have to thin the open-end section a bit with a grinder, but maybe not.


I found that when the adjusters are properly lubricated and in working order, the small BMW bent wrench from the tool kit is all I need.  Block the front wheels, floor jack under the diff, place the safety stands, and adjust the brakes.  Takes maybe 10 minutes...  Look for those little bent wrenches in the tool kits of BMWs in salvage yards.






'69 Granada... long, long ago  

'71 Manila..such a great car

'67 Granada 2000CS...way cool

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Just for completeness, the bent spanner was also produced by Stahlwille #12714;




and by Sauer #6134020;


sametag sales 2.jpeg


I think that the Stahlwille was the original. It also appears to be thinner than the Hazet #2921, which may allow its ring (box) end to be used.

02tii 2751928 (2582)

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  • 11 months later...
  • 9 months later...

This is probably a moot point after more than a half of a year, but the OP asked about the handbrake adjustment.  The (two) 17mm adjustment bolts on each backing plate being discussed are not adjusters for the handbrake.  The handbrake is adjusted by pulling up the flexible boot at the base of the handbrake itself, and adjusting the 10mm nuts on the ends of the handbrake cables that go to each rear wheel.


Haynes suggest pulling the brake handle up 6 clicks, then shortening the cable until the rear wheel being adjusted can't be rotated by hand. Check that releasing the hand brake back down allows the wheel to turn freely.  Repeat on the opposite wheel.  Then, when the hand brake is pulled up 10 or so clicks, the rear brake shoes will be well pressed into the drums.

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