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Stabilize engine and fixing transmission leak


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I've got to pull the 4 speed transmission to change input and output seals.

Is there a "best way" to stabilize the engine while the trans is out? I have no engine hoist and have seen mentions of using a 2x4 and some straps around the engine?


Also, write-ups mention just driving a screw in to pull the old seal, but don't mention the outer housing plates. Most kits don't have the paper gaskets for the input and output housings included. Is it necessary to take off the outer housings and gaskets if you just want to swap the seals? 

Thanks, hoping this is the last issue before really getting her on the road.

Edited by theNomad
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2 X4 method works pretty good, just wedge it in there against the firewall, and strap it down somehow to keep it from moving while you wiggle the tranny around.


hopefully someone will chime in about the transmission oil seals, i've never done those

79' 320i (comfy modified daily driver)

73' 2002 (weekend beater crusier/rolling resto)

73' 2002tii (superfast rust bucket undergoing restoration)

72' tii (parts car)  ...99' SV650  ...00' KTM 380 2 stroke ...06' Kawasaki Ninja 500R ...96' F-250 7.3L turbo diesel (towtruck)

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I've never had a reason to stabilize the engine.  It can balance on the 2 motor mounts without issue.  Getting the transmission out is no problem.  It just slides back and out.  I help it along with a floor jack supporting the tranny while pulling it back.


Putting the transmission back in the car is another story.  I usually wedge a 2x4 on end against the ground and the front lip of the oil pan.  This pushes the rear of the block down and gives a better angle to help slide the transmission back into place.  TIP: The bellhousing clears the tie rod center link by only 1/4" at best. Keep that in mind when you are re-installing the box.


Sorry, I don't have any personal experience with transmission seals.




Edited by PaulTWinterton

73 Inka Tii #2762958

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Be sure to take off your distributor cap, at least, some say to pull it.
I had to jack up the front of the engine until the distributor was really close to firewall, I was warned "you will break the cap", I would have.
Doing the 5 speed swap.
Ditto on the seals, what's your clutch like?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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output housings

The transmission doesn't have an output housing.  On a non- caseloader, it would be called a 'plate' or a 'main plate', that thing that looks like a removable housing.


In front, yes, the sleeve for the throwout bearing is in need of some sort of sealant, either chemical or gasket, as the oil seal rides in it.




"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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see section 18 on the following link. study first few pages beyond specifications.

Service book recommend supporting engine with block of wood between sump pump and front axle sub-frame. 

If you plan to use floor jack to support/lift/lower trans, suggest to fabricate a simple jig from wood.

   IMG_1793.JPG IMG_1794.JPG

76 2002 Sienabraun

2015 BMW f10

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4 minutes ago, PaulTWinterton said:


Funny.  You just had that picture hanging around?  Or are those realtime cold ones?

I've been known to whip it out as in meme's especially when I start drinking. Yes that's right kids, drinking and the internet don't mix. Just ask Ray. 

Edited by conkitchen

But what do I know

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