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John A. When you put your ARP head studs in, did you follow


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

ARP's recommended method of hand threading the studs into the block? I'm confused here. I've read your posts about studs and it seems I should put the studs into the block so that the stud sholders are not bottoming out on the deck and then use some locking compound to hold them in place.

The ARP folks say to put lube on both ends, hand thread them into the block deck and then torque to spec. I know the stud continues to turn as I torque it and I'm certain it is bottoming out. Am I missing something?

Thanks!

John N

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Guest Anonymous

Well, best I can remember..

The ARP instructions are to be followed, esp. with regard to the lube on the top threads (where the 12 pt nuts are fitted.) Their torque specs depend on the specific lube used -- different values for using engine oil vs their special lube. The less friction (due to the special lube), the higher clamp load for the same tightening torque.

IIRC, I used engine oil to lightly lube the bottom threads before hand-installing them into the block, then the special lube on the top.

Yes, the shoulder portion of the stud does reach the block, but it does not really get "torqued" into it.

Some of this will depend on the chamfer on the bolt holes on the block -- did you clean the threads with a chaser and also dress the chamfer at the top? A good fit here might minimize the spin of the stud.

The bottom threads are M12x1.75, and the top threads are M12x1.25. This combination makes it harder for the stud to continue turning into the block, it should not be a real problem. Just prep the hole and be careful, you should see the stud stop turning long before things get real tight. Not much else you can do there, I've seen no ill effects on teardown.

Note how one stud will interfere with the cam cover's breather baffle. You need to grind down one of your fancy ARP fasteners to get clearance.

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