engine and drivetrain Speedometer cable assembly into transmission

[worzella]

I hope you will forgive some duplication, but I had a couple of questions related to this assembly that enters the transmission. I also added a couple of pictures and re-posted jgerocks excellent summary. 

 

o One picture shows my old cable end and the new one. Once I paid attention, I realized there was the adapter and o-ring, but I could not get the adapter off the end. After reading the article below and looking in detail at the parts diagrams I now realize that there is a seal and a metal bush.

 

o I took another look and the "bush" is metallic not rubber and seems to be pressed into the end of the adapter. So my main question is.. how do I get the bush out. Do I just grab the adapter with one set of pliers and the bush with another and rotate? Pull?

 

o Once I get that out, is there a proper direction for the new shaft seal? I will pay attention to how it comes out, but never know if PO replaced and installed properly.

 

Thanks again and hope this summary helps someone else out. 

 

PS - I also read about people having a hard time locating the set screw that holds the adapter/cable in place, but I think mine is still OK, so I did not research that much.

 

From jgerock:

 

The speedometer cable fits inside a bushing assembly that slips into the transmission housing. The speedo drive gear shaft fits inside the other end of the bushing.

There are (4) parts to the bushing assembly that I purchased for my 4-speed Getrag 242 trans (disclaimer here - parts are from Maximillian- double check the part numbers for your car):

 

From the transmission drive gear outward, they are:

Bush # 23121630176 (short collar)

Shaft seal # 23121490192

Adaptor # 23121490117 (longest piece)

O-ring # 23121490177

 

The shaft seal is inserted into the adaptor and the bush is then pressed into the end. This seals the shaft and keeps the speedo drive shaft gear centered.

The bottom of the adaptor has a partial groove to accept the 8mm (wrench size) locking pin bolt and it also retains the speedo cable end. If the assembly is inserted into the transmission with the groove out-of-index with the bolt-hole, you will just tighten the bolt against the side of the adaptor so that it will not come out (but the cable will). Remove the assembly and turn it so that it the groove is at the bottom of the opening and parallel to the bottom of the car.

If your adaptor and cable drive gear falls out when you remove the cable itself, the parts and O-ring should be replaced. This is a major leakpoint in the Getrag transmission (4 and 5 speed O.D. units).

Edited September 11, 2016 by worzella

[TobyB]

Well, huh, look at that.  I guess I knew that was in there, but it's been ages...  I forgot about the seal buried in there.

 

I may have been working on too much hydraulic equipment, but can't you get that seal out (#4) without pulling out the bushing?

They collapse some, but I don't remember how much. 

As to orientation, I'd be surprised if yours has ever been out.

But you want the sealing lip to go towards the oil, so inward.

 

t

 

[worzella]

Thanks Toby - Always can count you you for an answer.. Just got too curious and went downstairs an hour ago and grabbed two channel locks and twisted that metal bush out... kind of mangled both the bush and adapter.. but then tried to get seal out and that SOB is buried in their tight. And it is behind the bush so no way to remove without taking that bush out.

 

So I think the moral of the story is ... pony up $30 for new adapter, bush, seal and O-ring and re-assemble on the new cable. That is my plan going forward.. doesn't quite seem like those parts were meant to be ever transferred to a new cable.

 

Randy 

Edited September 11, 2016 by worzella

[jgerock]

Randy,

Thanks for the reminder.  I've posted so much stuff my memory is fading (yes - I've starting getting those e-mail ads for "walk in tubs").  

 

Hopefully the replacement parts are still available from BMW suppliers.  

[worzella]

Update - ordered the four parts and all were available except that metal bush. Not sure it was a temporary delay or NLA... but I plan to re-use the one I took out of my original speedo cable.

 

It all makes sense expect the original seal is not quite the same as the one they sent me. Toby said:

 

                "But you want the sealing lip to go towards the oil, so inward."

 

I will see if I can make that make sense when I put it together, but might have to post again..

 

Thanks - Randy 

 

[theNomad]

I couldn't get the old metal bush out to reuse it and didn't want to mangle it. Didn't think it was the main issue so I replaced the O ring and left it.

[mvliotta]

Now I know where that speedo o-ring goes that I ordered!

 

Great pics above, Jim and Randy.

 

My speedo cable slipped out of the metal adapter easily, and the metal adapter remains flush in it's housing. Not sure if the speedo was leaking....tempted to just leave it alone and see if it leaks after trans is re-installed.... BUT does one need to evacuate trans fluid to replace it??

 

Vince

 

 

Edited December 13, 2016 by mvliotta

[Buckeye]

No. But is lot easier while trans is on the bench. you can pull that adapter out by inserting and thin punch to adapter side hole (inside) and maneuver it out. 

 

Also, it is good practice to replace back-up light switch again while trans is out. That is another source of fluid leak.

18 minutes ago, mvliotta said:

does one need to evacuate trans fluid to replace it??

 

[worzella]

Continuing saga of this small project.... I tried and tried to get that seal (part 4 or 11 above) into the adapter and it is an extremely tight fit. I greased up the seal frame and the adapter inside and then slid the seal onto the drive gear. I thought this would allow me to position the seal properly to "drive" it into the adapter. As hard as I tried to line it up, my first blow with a plastic mallet sent that damn seal in slightly crooked and the game was over. I tried to realign and failed and then tried to remove for another try, but it was stuck and I mangled the rubber sealing lip. Crap !!!!

 

But, good news is that the seal is available and ONLY $13 (one less overpriced bar cocktail this week for me!), so my plan B is to try to use my press to get it in. I need to conjure up some way of ensuring it is lined up properly before I lower the press. I am scared of using the drive gear because those cost a fortune if I mess it up. So I am pondering some threaded rod with a right-size washer and a bolt.

 

Another thought was to torch the adapter hot-hot and keep the seal in the freezer over night and maybe that baby would just drop in... I doubt I would be that lucky, but maybe. That seemed to help a bit when I installed rear hub bearings. 

 

Anyone with experience getting this seal into this adapter? I wish the replacement part had the adapter, seal and end bushing already assembled. But then that would take all of the "fun" out of this.

 

Thanks - Randy  

[jgerock]

I too had a difficult time getting the parts assembled. It took me several attempts to drive the seal into the adaptor. Think I sanded the leading edge to make a chamfer.

[worzella]

Good tip... I will add that to my attempts and make sure I do it when I am in a cal, patient mood

[theNomad]

Where did you buy the #4 part from for $13? I didnt get that with my parts. I have a metal pressed in part in the end of the cable end you show hanging out of the trans. There was no other rubber seal other than the oring. Maybe ill look again

[Longdrawz]

Folks...any trick to getting the adaptor (#10,#3) out?  I removed the screw, speedo cable popped out, adaptor...not so much. 

 

TIA,

Nate

[jgerock]

7 minutes ago, Longdrawz said:

Folks...any trick to getting the adaptor (#10,#3) out?  I removed the screw, speedo cable popped out, adaptor...not so much. 

 

TIA,

Nate

That's a good sign your seals and bushings aren't worn out. Use a small punch in the screw hole to try and lever the assembly out. Be careful not to break the housing.

[Longdrawz]

Thanks...I'll give that shot