engine and drivetrain Brands to use - head gaskets and head bolts?

[Healey3000]

Hi,

 

Searching brings up OEM Elring and aftermarket VR head gaskets.  I'd love to use MLS but that would be overkill for a street engine.  Same with ARP studs.

 

Things change over time and certain brands may fall out of favor so I thought I'd ask - what is the current favorite brand for gaskets and bolts?  Head may need to be decked so a plus-thickness gasket may be required. I assume that timing cover, distributor flange, manifold and valve cover gaskets, etc. are not as critical?

 

Thanks!

 

[jgerock]

Stock BMW stuff in both of my cars.  Think the gasket is Elring.

[TobyB]

No problem with Elring- but I've used a dozen VR headgasket sets, and never had one NOT seal as it should.  I know the E30

bunch doesn't like them, but I've never had a problem, even on an M20.  When I do, I'll throw a whineyfit, I'm sure- but it hasn't happened yet.

 

My favorite bolts are the ones that are in the engine- they've been proven to work, and they were made in Germany.

If they're not damaged, I trust them more than anything I can get now, INCLUDING what comes from the dealership.

(take a look at what's in the BMW system for rockers these days)

 

pm'ed you back.

 

t

 

 

 

[Preyupy]

If it a stock low compression ratio engine ( <9:1) either the Elring or VR gaskets have worked well for years.  I have had a few problems on the higher compression engines with the VR gaskets over the last few years.  If the head needs to be surfaced make sure you have the front timing cover surfaced at the same time (they MUST be the same thickness or it will LEAK)  Stock head bolts are just fine and you should not need to replace them unless you messed one up or it is horribly rusty.  Other than that the stock gaskets will work just fine.  If you are having the head rebuilt ( grind the valves etc ) I would update the guides to the later style and use the smaller valve stem seals (this quite possibly has already been done) 

[KFunk]

After a new BMW head bolt snapped on me while torquing it down, I just got ARP studs. It's not worth the risk of going through that mess again.

[TobyB]

That's what I'm saying- the OLD BMW head bolts, I trust more!

 

t

 

[kbmb02]

14 hours ago, TobyB said:

That's what I'm saying- the OLD BMW head bolts, I trust more!

 

t

 

 

+1

 

Like Toby, I generally use the old OEM head bolts, in street engines and race engines alike. Have not had one fail. -KB

[Healey3000]

Thanks all, for the advice and pointers.  I'll stick with the VR gasket and reuse the head bolts I have in the car now.  These may have already been reused when the head was replaced decades ago but I assume they are fairy overdesigned and should be good for another go.  In case the chain needs to be replaced, is there a brand recommendation?

 

I'll try and get some videos of the leak in progress but vibrations may render the images useless.  Perhaps a minute of running, followed by stoppage for pictures repeated a few times will provide evidence of the source of the leak.

[Healey3000]

An update - I took off the valve cover, cleaned out the stud openings and sealed them with RTV.  I used the Subaru oil pump goop, which in my experience with our Subies, is a very good product.  I then changed out the valve cover gasket, applying Hylomar on both sides, for good measure.

 

Next, I will change out the distributor flange gasket, o-ring and sealing washer.  If it still leaks oil, it has to be the head itself, either a blown gasket or a crack somewhere.  Sound right?

 

Thanks.

[Preyupy]

You should not need to glue the valve cover on to keep it from leaking.  If it is leaking SOMETHING IS NOT FLAT!  With the valve cover off check where the front timing cover meets the head right under the V/C gasket.  If there is a step that you can feel with your finger the head was surfaced without the front timing cover or the front cover is from a different engine and has been cut to fit a different head.  Put the V/C on a known flat surface and check it for flatness.  There Is also the possibility that the lower timing cover is not the same height as the block (just like the upper cover and head they need to be machined together to make sure they are FLAT)  The distributor housing on the back of the head is known to leak if not installed correctly (there is a special sealing washer that goes under one of the bolts holding it to the head. This bolt goes into the oil galley and sees full oil pressure so it can leak past the threads without the sealing washer)  The oil pressure light switches are known to leak past the terminal on top.  Someone might have messed up the gaskets on the front covers when they were installed.  Head gaskets almost NEVER leak oil and if they do it is not because there is a problem with the gasket, the problem is because something else is keeping the gasket from sealing properly. 

[Healey3000]

Hi,

 

I agree, the VC should not need any help.  It wasn't leaking to begin with but since I'm in belt and suspenders mode, I figured I'd add the Hylomar.  It's not really an adhesive and can be wiped off easily.  Front timing cover has no step and there is a dab of RTV to fill the gap, so that was done correctly.  The thing is, if the installation was not done right, I'd expect it to leak right away.  I had no leaks for a few thousand miles since I bought the car.  I see no leaks from the front of the engine, even keeping in mind that oil travels in mysterious ways when a fan is blasting hot air rearwards.

 

And yes, that distributor mounting is going to be the recipient of my attention next.  It could be the sender (I've had that fail on a non-BMW before).  I may as well replace it, for good measure.

 

Thanks.