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72 tii Car + Parts (new & used)


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I bought the car in 1987 after restoring a 1974 tii which I sold upon finding the '72.  It was originally a Florida car, but was brought to Charlottesville, VA and I bought it shortly after it arrived in town.  It was my daily driver until 1993 when it got hit and has been sitting in a garage since.  It needs a left rear quarter panel and passenger side door.


It has had stainless brake lines, Bilsteins, Suspension Techniques springs and sway bars, Panasports, 320 radiator, Momo Monte Carlo steering wheel, battery moved to trunk, new center grille, installed. I have receipts for all new & used parts.


Need to get $10,500 for everything - not willing to break this up.


Below is a list of new parts that I have for the car - the prices below are for reference only and reflect current retail pricing.   I've just included them to give you an idea of what everything would cost a la carte.  Used parts are listed further down.


New Parts:

E12 factory rebuilt engine (shipped to me from Munich - still on pallet-all receipts) $4,500.00  
Upper chrome set $1,295.00  
Chrome lug nut set $6.00 each
Alloy set $4.00 each
Wheel center caps $$$$  
License lights $59.00 each
Flat Euro signal lights $270.00 each
Original complete tail lights $633.00 each
Rear panel badge $35.00  
Transmission rubber mountings $30.00 each
Strut mounts $43.00 each
Ball joint kit $25.00 each
Rear "2002tii" badge $70.00  
Hood Roundel raised letters $52.00  
Head gasket for tii $30.00  
Thermostat $14.00  
Valve cover gaskets $9.00 each
Antenna $79.00  
Front fenders (not aftermarket - still have BMW factory stickers & sales receipt)    
Clips to cover seams in rear European-style bumper $70.00 each
Side mirror $195.00  
Band 1 & Band 2 : 1502 - 2002tii parts catalog    
Volume 1 & Volume 2 Repair Manual for 1502,1602,2002    
BMW 2002tii  Fuel Injection System Handbook    
Engine compartment decals    
New 1602, 1802, 2002, 2002tii Owners Handbook    
Original BMW 2002 / BMW 2002 tii showroom customer information flyer    


Used parts:

  • Injection pump
  • Cold start valve
  • Fuel injection valve
  • Intake manifold
  • Throttle body
  • Aluminum intake runners
  • Air cleaner housing
  • Gas tank ( but actually may be new ) I do not remember
  • Trunk lid 
  • Air conditioning 
  • 320 five speed transmission
  • Dozens of magazines, articles, books specific only to the tii













































Edited by rogstii
Reduced price
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15 minutes ago, lilmo said:

What's the VIN?  Does the number on the motor in the car match the chassis number? Why was a crate motor needed?



I'm out of town at the moment and do not have the VIN with me.  The VIN on the motor in the car does match the chassis.  The original engine needed to be rebuilt, and at the time I could purchase a rebuilt engine from Munich for the same price as having mine rebuilt locally.  Plus, it had a 10,000 mile warranty - not sure if that's still valid or not ;) 

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15 hours ago, lilmo said:

What's the VIN?  Does the number on the motor in the car match the chassis number? Why was a crate motor needed?




I like to guess at VIN's!  It looks like the car has no notch on the firewall and the intake accumulator (plenum) that is still mounted on the car appears to be dated February (2 nubs?) 1972 so that would generally place it in the 2761000 to 2761944 range.


Interesting car and assembly of parts!








1976 2002 Polaris, 2742541 (original owner)

1973 2002tii Inka, 2762757 (not-the-original owner)

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Sorry to be responding so late, but let's see if this answers everyone's questions.

First of all, as I said in my description about my car and parts I will not break up my inventory.  After 25 years in the BMW CCA, and nearly 30 years of BMW ownership, I have switched my allegiance to a 2002 Audi TT  Quattro roadster, so the very last thing I need is to be sitting on tii parts.

Now let me try to answer your questions:

My car's vin is 2761647.  Call me old fashioned,but my interest in tii's was driving them, not showing them, so matching numbers was of no concern, but yes, the engine is original to the car.  This little car played the roll of daily driver for me, with its last 2 years making a daily trip between Richmond and Charlottesville, VA, and  If memory serves, it was right around 4000 rpms.  Some time within those years, I had the transmission rebuilt and replaced both the clutch and flywheel. When I decided it was time for an engine rebuild, Phil Marx, ( BMW sales for around 40 years, former CCA national president, talented mechanic, collector of some truly beautiful early BMW's, and dear friend ) suggested that rather than have the downtime and money spent to rebuild it myself, why not buy a factory engine complete with 10,000 mile warranty and it was also something that would lend itself to dickering between different dealership parts managers.  Which would you have done, spend $1800.00 for a factory engine or rebuild one in order to retain the same vin ?

Again, I did most of the modifications which were being done in those days; removing front spring spacers, Billstein HD shocks, H&R sway bars, Suspension Techniques springs, 320 radiator, stainless steel brake lines, Panasport  14"wheels, "stereo", new windshield, battery moved to trunk with, if memory serves correctly #2 cable, etc.

Now in terms of questions regarding fender(s), rust, and the need for body work; 

As I pointed out in my introduction my car is in need of a left rear quarter panel and new right-hand door skin.  Actually, the damage to the door was caused by a 3- yes that is a three - year old who lost control of her mother's van, ran through the side of the garage, and pushed my Delta table saw into the tii.

You must remember that I also said it had been a Florida car for the first 15 years of it's life. It seems to me that what seem to be the most rust-prone areas in these little cars is around the front turn signals, the lower rear corner of the front fenders, the pedal pod, and spare tire well.  My guess is, that the owner did not replace the trunk led gasket and failed to address or to even discover water in the wheel well, hence it is rusted through, but that is an easy fix.  As you can see it has rust around each of the upper chrome fastener holes.  There was a club member who advertised in the Roundel selling stainless clips for around $129.00.  Why I never bought any is beyond me. The thing is, it has been garaged since 1994 and other than these issues presents an excellent basis for restoration. The paint under the trunk lid, hood, and on the majority of the body is original and in surprisingly good shape. The carpet has been removed and the floorboards are as new.  It is just a great starter.

Now in terms of the parts, both old and new, they were affordable.  One of the parts men at Bimmer Parts and I probably knew each other's birthday.  In 1967, I was in college and working part-time at Kroger when I ordered a new SS 396 Chevelle, 325 horse, 4-speed, 3:73 rear end. It was literally like a shopping list, and I as a college student could afford a new car.  In the 80's at the tail end of those times I could still easily afford to accumulate tii parts, even on a teacher's salary.  What would you have done?  

I hope this has answered some of your questions.

Oh, by the way, and this is the honest truth, I did trade in my '57 BelAir convertible on the Super Sport.


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