body and interior 3M Spray Adhesive Temperature Ratings - What to use to hold up your roof insulation ?

[calw]

While asking questions about sound deadener, the topic of spray adhesives came up.  I thought I reported this some years ago but couldn't find it with the search function, so I looked 'em up again.  There are lots of 3M spray adhesives, with different specs, including what materials they are meant to bond together.  I just focused on temperature rating  and don't pretend to know for certain how applicable this is.

 

The one temperature rating shown in the 3M data sheets is "Shear Adhesion Failure Test - SAFT".  The test is described in the data sheets, I won't repeat it here.

      3M adhesive #                                 SAFT Temperature (deg F)

           72 Blue                                                        170

           77                                                                205

           80                                                                300

           90                                                                250 

 

There are many different types available, those above happened to be in my collection when I looked this up.

 

Result?  I used # 80 when  I installed my roof insulation pad, about 1/2" thick medium density rubbery stuff, the exact type of which I no longer recall- it was years ago.  That held the insulation. for a few years untl the headliner went up with no issues.  Then the headliner, which has also been in place for a few years now.  No falling down yet.  BUT, the car's not been out in the hot sun, or any other weather for that matter.   I also recall to took two fo their 19 oz cans to do the job.

 

Will it work for YOUR material?  I have no idea.  Always test a small piece of both materials to be bonded with the planned adhesive FIRST!

 

 

[Simeon]

When I installed the underhood insulation on my car I used the Selly's product below (Australian brand) specifically for its heat resistance. Certainly had no problems since and it gets pretty warm here. 

 

http://www.selleys.com.au/adhesives/household-adhesive/specialist-adhesive/kwik-grip-advanced/

 

What at I would say is for your application most contact adhesive softens with heat and then hardens again as the temperature falls. If the insulation is relatively lightweight and it has the benefit of some mechanical assistance from the head liner rods to hold it in place, you are unlikely to see any catastrophic failure.  

 

The original foam sound proofing was in place under the head lining in my car and they wouldn't have had the benefit of anything other than rubber / spirit based contact adhesive when built. The car had then been through 40 odd years of hot summer in Australia without any problems (the dash and rear seat back are a different story). 

[Son of Marty]

Just the other day Esty recommended  Weldwood vinyl roof/landau top contact cement for this job she says none of the 3M products have a high enough heat rating when it comes to interiors I would sure follow Esty's advice.

[Fatherof3]

I've had poor results with 3M sprays in the heat. Brushing on Weldwood has worked much better.

If the insulation is heavy and installed vertical or upside down I would even consider caulk type adhesives.

 

I'm sure there is a good spray out there for a price

[harold]

But the Weldwood vinyl roof product comes only in minimum 1 gal containers.  That's more than a lifetime supply.

 

There is a 3M (brush on) product that is rated for high heat  - 3m Scotch-Weld 1357 Neoprene High Performance Contact Adhesive. 

 

Also of the 3M industrial spray can products - 3M Heavy Duty 20 Spray Adhesive - is rated to 210 deg F. 

 

So a blanket statement that 3M products aren't good for high heat is not correct.

 

Harold

[Fatherof3]

7 minutes ago, harold said:

But the Weldwood vinyl roof product comes only in minimum 1 gal containers.  That's more than a lifetime supply.

 

There is a 3M (brush on) product that is rated for high heat  - 3m Scotch-Weld 1357 Neoprene High Performance Contact Adhesive. 

 

Also of the 3M industrial spray can products - 3M Heavy Duty 20 Spray Adhesive - is rated to 210 deg F. 

 

So a blanket statement that 3M products aren't good for high heat is not correct.

 

Harold

Weldwood brushable contact cement comes in pints and quarts. Carried at most hardware stores around here.

"I've had poor results with 3M sprays in the heat" how is my personal experience a blanket statement?

Edited September 1, 2016 by Fatherof3

[MildSeven]

I'll report back how the 3m Super 90 holds up... so no one makes the same mistake I may have made.

 

but 2 notes on my application...

 

1. I live in Montreal. Where a hot summer day is 33'c in the summer and like 40'c with humidity (feels like), that's 104'f. I don't imagine the sun can take the roof of the car over to 200'f (93'c) but I might be wrong.

2. The material I used is super light. (EZ cool, less than 2lbs for 40sq')

 

I guess we could see how well it holds up on the firewall as well.

Edited September 1, 2016 by MildSeven

[Arizona02]

Hey Mild Seven, i have measured outside roof temps out of curiosity to compare paint colors temp using an infrared Laser thermometer, the pistol grip style $35 made in china. Did this in the early afternoon 105 degree day in Arizona. The white car 150 and the black at 200. these cars have the windows rolled up tight. Ambient air inside the car is gasping, sitting on Leather / vinyl seats will burn your butt.

[esty]

i don't know it all and there are so many variables who knows what may happen...in 05 when we restored my 76 we used super 90 to attach some lightweight foil backed foam to the roof..luckily we did this quite a while before we got around to installing the headliner...when we were ready to put the headliner in, the sections were not solidly attached like they were when we glued them in place and in spots they had fully released....we had the car inside, out of the sun but the building was not climate controlled and got hot inside

 

i've also had other interior work fail using super 80 & 90...maybe 6 months ago i made 3 sets of trunk boards and used super 90 to attach the vinyl to the face...i never got around to wrapping and attaching on the back...i had them sitting in the garage all that time...when i grabbed a set a couple of weeks ago to finish, all of the edges had released as well as some spots in the middles

 

i've never had weldwood fail...just my experience and your results may vary

[Robert A Olmedo]

I always use the roof repair strips for sound deadening. Aluminum on one side and very heavy adhesive on the other. Kind of like dyna mat but a heck of a lot cheaper.  

[Simeon]

The edges on my trunk boards have released (in situ) using 3M 90. Areas where I used old fashioned, brush on rubber based contact adhesive this all stayed in place. 

[solo 2]

6 hours ago, Simeon said:

The edges on my trunk boards have released (in situ) using 3M 90. Areas where I used old fashioned, brush on rubber based contact adhesive this all stayed in place. 

+1 

 

I did auto upholstery for 10 years, contact cement works really well on anything being bonded to steel, once cured it doesn't come off. most glues I've seen have to be sprayed on both surfaces and then left to set up tacky, almost dry, if you don't do this most glues will fail. Wet feeling glue is a recipe for disaster in my experience.

[JAS]

I too have had mixed results with 3M 90. Used it with my under hood foam pads and those have held up well with the heat over the past couple of summers. When doing my headliner and rear parcel shelf, I found 3M 90 did not always hold, especially around the openings of the sunroof and the sunroof underside panel where the glue is only thing holding the fabric to the metal's edge. The material started to release even before finishing the project.

 

So, before finishing the headliner, I did a test. I took several small pieces of scrap headliner and glued them to a piece of clean metal using a different glue for each -  3M 90, Wurth's Power Grip Adhesive, and Permatex's weatherstrip adhesive #80BR. I let the glue cure for a couple of days and then applied heat from my heat gun until the temp of the metal was about what would be expected inside the car on a hot summer day (used my infrared temp gun to measure the surface temp), 

 

The result: The only one that did not soften and release the fabric (when tugged) was the Permatex product. Out of curiosity, I increased the heat further - to the point where it started to bubble up. Still held.

 

So went with the Permatex product, particularly for the critical areas. The one drawback to the stuff is that it dries yellow. So if it accidentally gets on something visible you will see it if you don't clean it up right away. It did not show through or bleed through the headliner material (checked first).

 

My two cents. Hope it helps.

John

Edited January 15, 2017 by JAS