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Roundie and square tail distributors


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Lots of variations in distributors through the years with points in different configuration and different cap arrangements. I would send Blunt your distributor number and get him to identify the correct parts. Even the condenser varies with a square or a round hole through the body. 

rtheriaque wrote:

Carbs: They're necessary and barely controlled fuel leaks that sometimes match the air passing through them.

My build blog:http://www.bmw2002faq.com/blog/163-simeons-blog/

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There are 2 styles of cap-  'early' dizzy has a tab that sticks up from 1 of the hold-down clips.

'Late' has a notch cut out of the barrel of the dizzy, and the cap has a tab.  And is a vw part


I think they changed in '71,  but don't quote me.


Rotors all interchange.  and are vw.


Now, the actual dizzy spec varied a lot... 



"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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Rotors all fit, but there are two kinds to choose from.

One has a wider tip, for the added advance associated with vacuum advance distributors, if I understand it correctly.


With rotors there is also a difference in resistance.

Bosch typically marks them with either an R5 or an R1.


My extra VW bits come in handy.


EDIT-- the R5 rotor is what the manual calls for.  It makes for a longer spark duration than the 1K rotor.

Edited by '76mintgrün'02



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Don't forget the rev- limiting rotor, Tom!  Those were NLA back when I started, but seem to have come back from the dead

(maybe Botch found a big warehouse full of 'em they forgot they had?  Sent one to China by accident?)




There's also the "whups, guess I have an HEI" rotorrotor meltdown.jpg


and the "guess it's time to do the driver's side mount" rotor...



rotor motor mount.jpg


I'm sure I'm missing a few...






"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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Great info presented. I would start with WHICH motor do you have in the car as a base point and then decide which path to pursue (updated electronic ignition or old school). So many times I go to a car show and see a non-original motor but somehow it is believed to be original. But thats OK & thats part of the fun of owning a 40yr + old car. Personally I went with updated via Crane ignition and have had zero problems. Call me if you get stuck.





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