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Stuck wheel hub


rapandi

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Hi

 

I have tried separating the wheel hub - the wheel hub will just not break free.

 

- Using a hub puller I placed the hub under tension over a few nights and saturated it with penetrating fluid 

- Using a hammer and timber tried whacking it from behind the hub in the hope that it would break free - no luck

-Thinking of leaving it under tension and using a propane torch to heat it and then giving it a hit

 

Am I doing this correctly?

 

Can i just put the castle nut back on and give the spline shaft a strong hit in the hope it will move and in turn set the hub free?

 

Thanks

 

DSC_0924.JPGDSC_0920.JPG

 

Raj 

Raj

1972 BMW 2002 Tii - Golf Yellow

 

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I would try heating up the hub first. Its never a good idea to hit the castle but. You risk deforming the shaft threads and the nut, then you will need a stub shaft as well.

Andre B.

1971 BMW 2002

Wanna-be racer, too stiff for the street...

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16 hours ago, rapandi said:

I have tried separating the wheel hub - the wheel hub will just not break free.

 

- Using a hub puller I placed the hub under tension over a few nights and saturated it with penetrating fluid 

- Using a hammer and timber tried whacking it from behind the hub in the hope that it would break free - no luck

-Thinking of leaving it under tension and using a propane torch to heat it and then giving it a hit

 

 

 

Dealt with same issue along time ago.  Logistics (crowded garage) and a desire to save fresh powder coating prevented liberal use of the torch.  Things were so impossibly tight that even the "Jesus" nut had to be chiseled off.  Recall breaking a two-armed gear puller (similar to your picture).  Ultimately everything gave way when trying a different style (four-armed) gear puller.  It could have been that all of the earlier flexing and persuading paved an easy path for the larger puller, or that a slight change of levering made the difference - but we will never know.  :rolleyes:

 

For lack of a better answer, you might try repositioning your current puller or try another one, if available.

 

 

 

 

 


 

 

 

gedore-8026030-1-62-8-wheel-hub-puller.j

T:  Good point about pulling the studs out.

 

pullerhub.JPG

 

PullerInAction.jpg

 

 

Necessity is the Mother of invention?

70121-404-wheel-hub-puller-installer-35_

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/unimog/1238171-404-wheel-hub-puller-installer-2.html

 

 

Where there is a will  . . . there is a way?

VWdrumpuller13.jpg

 

 

Edited by avoirdupois
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The bolt- on puller runs less risk of distorting the flange, but may pull the studs out.

Easier to replace studs than the flange, I say.  Fine threads are better- the coarse ones don't have enough leverage,

and lube 'em for good measure.  I even use a ball- bearing as a point on one of mine to reduce friction.  It also

tends to do less damage to the end of the stub.

 

Heat is good, and propane heat won't hurt anything that you're not already replacing.

Get it good and hot, and then use the BFH on the end of the puller.  The BFH needs to be in the 3-5 lb range.  Really.

I like my older copper- faced hammer, just for the satisfying 'whunk' it makes.

And slug it.  Hard, if you have to.  You're going to replace the bearings, anyways, because they're so cheap.

 

Yes, I've cut nuts off, too.  They go on so tight that the threads sometimes gall together.

 

t

 

 

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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Three or four years ago I broke a two-arm puller and a bigger three-arm puller on one of these hubs.

 

Gave the trailing arm to a friend then working here at Frankfurt airport. They applied icing spray and a 20 ton press - hub didn´t move, press had to be repaired afterwards.

 

Just out of anger took my big sledgehammer and "whunked" it on the f..ing thing (really liked that word Toby, inspired me to write this text) - broke the hammer handle.

 

Then I took the big angle grinder and cut everything into nice little pieces. About three hours of senseless work - but really killing that sh.t was worth it!!!

 

Regards, Lars.

Ei guude wie? (Spoken as "I gooooda weee" and hessian idiom for "Hi, how are you?")

 

Já nevím, možná zítra.

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51 minutes ago, LarsAlpina said:

Three or four years ago I broke a two-arm puller and a bigger three-arm puller on one of these hubs.

 

.

I also broke a 3 arm puller on a hub when it broke it shot a 1/4"x 2" sliver of metal hard enough to bounce off the cement floor and puncture the tire I put under the rear of the rocker, it sliced my leg badly when I slid out to find out what the hissing sound was, the sliver was beyond razor sharp and I knew it hit the floor because it went into the tire at a upward angle.

If everybody in the room is thinking the same thing, then someone is not thinking.

 

George S Patton 

Planning the Normandy Break out 1944

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Soooo....

 

does the splined shaft just push right out? How do you "push" it out? 

 

I placed a timber across the face of the castle nut and whacked it hard in the hope it would push through.... No luck. Any tricks?

 

Raj

 

image.jpeg

Raj

1972 BMW 2002 Tii - Golf Yellow

 

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4 hours ago, rapandi said:

does the splined shaft just push right out? How do you "push" it out? 

I placed a timber across the face of the castle nut and whacked it hard in the hope it would push through.... No luck. Any tricks?

 

Raj,

 

Congrats on getting the hub off. I suspect the timber softened the blow of your sledge hammer. The stub axle normally needs a good whack to get it out. It is held in by friction and perhaps rust by three things--the outer bearing, the bearing spacer, and the inner bearing. I'd flip the castle nut upside down, and run it down on the shaft so it is just flush with the top of the shaft--such that any blow is both on the nut flange and the end of the shaft. Less chance of damaging the stub axle threads. Then use a thick piece of metal instead of wood to transfer the blow after soaking.

 

--Fred

Edited by FB73tii

--Fred

'74tii (Colorado) track car

'69ti (Black/Red/Yellow) rolling resto track car

'73tii (Fjord....RIP)

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Again, me with the copper- face 3 lb hammer.

 

That usually works. 

 

Support the arm solidly, if you can- one of these years I should make a jig

to hold the arm so you can get it into a press.

 

It should be a lot less tight than your flange was- it's just an interference

fit on the bearings, and that's usually not very tight to avoid hurting the bearings on install.

 

You'll want new bearings.  And check the face of the flange where it touches them-

you may find a groove worn there.  Likewise, the spacer, when you get it apart.

But the good news is, given how stuck things are, that's pretty unlikely.

It's the loose ones that you have to worry about.

 

t

 

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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