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I'm hoping to find someone that's done exactly what I want, to a car exactly like mine :D. Just kidding. I've found a lot of different threads, but they're typically dealing the specific problem someone has encountered. 


I have all new hoses, roll over edge clamps, water pump, thermostat, and coolant. I'm not sure what else I need or what else I should do while I'm at it.


I would like to have the radiator pressure checked and then re-cored/replaced if needed. I've seen lots of recommendations on 3 row, W&N, Behr, etc. I would also like to make the heater work. I realize this might be as big or bigger than just replacing the hoses, but if there's some time/money savings from doing them at the same time then that's what I'd do. (Money saved maybe only for coolant? Is there an overall time savings for doing both at same time from duplicating any efforts?)


Here's my tentative plan:

  1. drain radiator
  2. Leave heater in the on position (how can I be sure the valve to let coolant run through the heater core is open? maybe its closed and that's why it doesn't heat during the winter)
  3. Remove thermostat and run water through the block, back through the drain on the radiator
  4. Pull radiator and take to a shop for pressure test
  5. Remove/replace fan (electric fans sound nice, but you lose the look... not sure here)
  6. open engine block coolant drain plug to drain water. Continue running water to make sure it is cleaned out.
  7. replace all hoses
  8. ??? Work on heater
  9. Put things back together and fill with fresh coolant/distilled water


Is this the right process? 


'74 automatic with 32/36 DGAV (water choke) carb

Edited by cgates30
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Drain the system and flush with fresh water, I use Prestone 2 part flush per the instructions then just go ahead and remove the radiator and send it to a good shop to be cleaned and checked out, As you say remove the T-stat and run fresh water through the system after removing the block plug that is under the exhaust manifold (you may want to shove a screw driver into the hole to get all the sediment out) and run till the water is clear. Your heater valve should have the plastic center part instead of being all brass these usually strip where the lever attaches to it if thats the case your screwed, I think Blunt has a kit to replace the plastic with a brass part to fix that, but at that point you probably should remove the heater box and rebuild it per the FAQ write up

If everybody in the room is thinking the same thing, then someone is not thinking.


George S Patton 

Planning the Normandy Break out 1944

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You pretty much have the idea. Depending on the condition of your car, there could be alot of calcium build up in the block and on all water nipples. Some of the water nipple may even be completely corroded (The water divider for instance).


Remove all the hoses and figure out the condition of each water nipple as you go. some sand paper can help you remove calcium around the nipples so you can figure out the condition of the underlying metal nipple. 


I recored my radiator at a local radiator shop. Chose recore that way i knew it would fit back into the car without issue.

1976 BMW 2002 Chamonix. My first love.

1972 BMW 2002tii Polaris. My new side piece.

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