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Carb Hell!


DEZIMADE

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With all do respect to the repeatable garage in my area ... Whom prides them selfs as the best with BMW 2002's I will not mention any names...

It's been back and forth due to a mysterious stalling when the clutch is down. She starts right up and drives like no other . 73 base 2002 .

I'm getting annoyed and sad, and somewhat embarrassed to keep calling them back to alert them that this ongoing issue is a problem. 6 hundred and 75$ dollars later. It's making me crazy.

Carb rebuild kit etc.

Can some one sharp enough know what's going on with this fickle carb. If it is even that! At this point I wonder .

Again : I drive to get food 15 min later I get in the car and she is back to the same issue .

She is stalling at every red light and any time I have to make a complete stop.

Thanks Dez

I think I need a dialog from a pro to communicate to them. [emoji857][emoji51]☹️

[emoji111]?️

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Is the brake pedal hard, or difficult to stop the car?

 

Do this:

With the car idling in the driveway, with E-brake on, step on the brake pedal. Does the engine falter? Release the brake pedal. Does it come back to smooth idle?

 

If yes to the above test, it's a leaking brake booster. 

 

Ed

Edited by zinz

'69 Granada... long, long ago  

'71 Manila..such a great car

'67 Granada 2000CS...way cool

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Which carb is it? 

 

Are you saying it has a "normal" idle when it's cold? and while the choke may be in operation? 

 

And it misbehaves after it has warmed up?

 

I'm still guessing vacuum leak... I've had a couple brake boosters fail me. Some still provided decent braking, but when stopped and pressing hard on the brake pedal, the engine would noticeably stumble.  Release the foot brake and the engine would right itself.  I would use the E-brake while holding at stop lights, until I could get the new booster installed.

 

Ed

 

 

'69 Granada... long, long ago  

'71 Manila..such a great car

'67 Granada 2000CS...way cool

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A lot of unanswered questions here about what we are trying to work on  ie. what carb etc. .  If the car has a Weber 32/36 and has a idle shut off solenoid which has a bad power connection the car won't have an idle circuit. It will run rough  getting to the power circuit and under about 2,000 rpm it will just die when you press in the clutch.  Had this problem and thought it was a vacuum leak, then realized it didn't have an idle  circuit. Replaced the solenoid with the simple cap over the idle jet and the car was back to running fine.

 

May or may not be the issue here ?

 

PS it would run cold on the idle step up , but after that clicked off , it would not idle 

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Des--please tell us in detail

1.  Exactly what carb you have:  Weber? 32/36? type of choke (manual, water, electric)

2.  Exactly what is it doing...stalling at any idle?  just cold? just hot?  stalling when stopped quickly?  cold? hot? both?

stalling with foot on brake?  with foot on clutch?  or just sitting at idle?  Is the fast idle system working when the engine is cold?  Does the choke function properly?

 

The more details you can give us, the better we can long-distance diagnose with possible solutions.  

 

mike

'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

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Weber, I would assume electric choke.

Stalling at hot.

Stalling foot on clutch

Stalling when idle

When cold the car runs like a dream.

A simple restart after shutting of for 3o min.

All the symptoms above .

Keep in mind Mike I have had the best of the best play with this carb, so it is real confusing as a nubee.

Thanks for your input.

I will try to give you more solid info about the carb, and if it is indeed an a electric choke, or?.....

Not original I believe duel weber

Rectangle filter on top ... Cheers Dez

[emoji111]?️

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Des--please tell us in detail

1.  Exactly what carb you have:  Weber? 32/36? type of choke (manual, water, electric)

2.  Exactly what is it doing...stalling at any idle?  just cold? just hot?  stalling when stopped quickly?  cold? hot? both?

stalling with foot on brake?  with foot on clutch?  or just sitting at idle?  Is the fast idle system working when the engine is cold?  Does the choke function properly?

 

The more details you can give us, the better we can long-distance diagnose with possible solutions.  

 

mike

Mike I answered you below . I'm just getting the hang of this . So bare with me. Thanks. Most appreciated Dez

[emoji111]?️

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A lot of unanswered questions here about what we are trying to work on  ie. what carb etc. .  If the car has a Weber 32/36 and has a idle shut off solenoid which has a bad power connection the car won't have an idle circuit. It will run rough  getting to the power circuit and under about 2,000 rpm it will just die when you press in the clutch.  Had this problem and thought it was a vacuum leak, then realized it didn't have an idle  circuit. Replaced the solenoid with the simple cap over the idle jet and the car was back to running fine.

 

May or may not be the issue here ?

 

PS it would run cold on the idle step up , but after that clicked off , it would not idle 

Thanks a lot . Your diagnosis seems close to my experience . But I'm puzzled why ?... The garage is not catching this .

It drives out great. Then ..... It stalls .

They said bring it back when it's actually stalling .,,,,, I did. He recommended a rebuild . I did . 400$ the first diagnose was 275$ now it's back . So frustrating . I will run this info by them thanks .

[emoji111]?️

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Is the brake pedal hard, or difficult to stop the car?

 

Do this:

With the car idling in the driveway, with E-brake on, step on the brake pedal. Does the engine falter? Release the brake pedal. Does it come back to smooth idle?

 

If yes to the above test, it's a leaking brake booster. 

 

Ed

I will do this vacuum test . Thanks

[emoji111]?️

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