GoGo Garnet

1976 Granatrot, Gauge surround

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Hello, an intro and follow the build page of sorts.

I used to run 1600's back in the 80's. Went into a full on "Dodge nut" mode for thirty years or so. Chargers, Ramchargers, pick-ups, and maybe a duster or three. One of my co-workers showed me his 02 a year or so ago, and I put a bug in his ear.

Fast forward to a month ago and he decided he's ready to move on. He hadn't drove the car in over two years, so it needed a battery, fresh gas, and a coil. Drove it home.

Lost the brakes on the way home.

Needs an interior rework.

Came with Recaro fronts (in black), a Momo wheel, the crane optical distributor thing, and probably others as I dig into it.

I joined earlier, but have been too busy upgrading the front brakes and reading posts to type this much.

That's probably enough words for the "first " day.

Edited by GoGo Garnet
title change

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Right, forgot the photos. I posted one in beauty shots from the day I bought it. I'll add another here. I need to get some of the interior. Its my next biggest project. The brakes were number 1, now I can drive it!

I did the vin number search on the car and the motor. According to the data base, the motor is from a Tii. Block #2764052.

Is there a way to check the block to verify this?

BMW Bs.jpg

Edited by GoGo Garnet
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Nice user name.  Welcome and enjoy.  Dodges are different, in a good way.  :)

 

How intoxicating to drive an 02 on the big island.  Super cool. 

 

 

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Since I finally got the brakes sorted, figured she deserves some bling.

I know, not original, but it moves me, (both left and right)!

Wooden upper.jpg

Now I need to find a nice shift knob, and maybe wooden stalk knobs.

Edited by GoGo Garnet

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On July 31, 2016 at 2:45 AM, GoGo Garnet said:

 ...According to the data base, the motor is from a Tii. Block #2764052.

Is there a way to check the block to verify this?

 

 

If the engine number (a.) is clearly legible and (b.) doesn't appear too "home-made", there's not much more to say.  The first photo below shows a fairly crisp engine number, along with the 2.0-liter block designation ("2,0") that preceded the stamping of the engine number.

 

My cheat sheet of VIN's suggests that 2764052 was initially installed in a 1973 tii manufactured approximately May 28, 1973.  This date also suggests that the block, if dated, must have a casting date prior to that manufacturing date.  If dated, the block's casting date is on the block's right side, generally between and slightly below the #1 and #2 cylinder expansion plugs.  More description of casting dates on blocks can be found here:

 

 

The second photo shows a block with a casting date of April 11, 1972 ("72" over "11D" in the oval frame), the date being located on its right side.  Caution: not every block is marked with a casting date although "middle era" cars seem to often have casting dates.

 

Lastly, a tii block is distinguishable by the oil drain port for the Kugelfischer pump.  This is located on the left side of the engine, just above the dipstick hole.  This hole should be plugged when a tii block is used without a Kugelfischer pump and I can't predict how that plugging process might have been accomplished on your specific block; it's conceivable even that the fitting for the drain hole might have been removed.  Nonetheless, the third photo below shows the left side of a tii block, including the oil drain hole with fitting.

 

BMW Archives (info.grouparchiv@bmwgroup.com) can provide a confirmed manufacturing date for VIN 2764052, in lieu of my guesstimate.

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

 

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Edited by Conserv

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Thanks Steve,

I went out, and my block does have the extra drain. Must have been drilled and tapped as it has a bolt of sorts in there.

This is the nicest, most helpful board!

Thanks all around.

James

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She's legal to drive, so a photo

 

 

Wailoa B.jpg

And, scored these wiper blades. They are so sexy.

 

Wiper arms art.jpg

Found a "Made in England" stamp. From what I found, looks like Speedline wipers off a Triumph stag.

Edited by GoGo Garnet

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I bought some Borbet rims. Not period correct, I know, but made in Germany. Plus, my wife likes them (in this color).

 

borbet1.jpg

 

Edited by GoGo Garnet

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Welcome and nice looking car. Period correct or not it is what you like so keep on doing what you like and I look forward to seeing more pictures of your car.

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Spent the last 4 days after work chasing down a fuel delivery problem.

It started with a stumbling while driving. Then Tuesday it "ran dry". I could let the electric fuel pump run for 15 seconds and drive another few blocks. Rinse and repeat until I made it to work. A 12 minute drive turned into a 35 minute tour.

All after work I cleared the fuel pump, lines, and regulator of being the fault. Finally today I started taking the carb apart to see if something made it thru my filters.

Turns out the M10 VIBRATOR actually loosened the needle seat 3/4 of the way loose. I was only getting less than 1/4 bowl of fuel before the floats closed the fuel flow off. Something so simple, yet so frustrating. The things we do to drive classic cars.

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I been wanting to polish the diving boards. Today seemed like a good time.

Since I'm taking the rear bumper off, might as well trim it for a "tighter" tuck.

So I marked it to conform to the body line while it was still connected. Removed the bumper, and stripped it down to the aluminum. Taped and trimmed it with my trusty jigsaw. Top and bottom, as I'm losing almost an inch half (33mm)

Then I moved on to the polishing. Started with the recommended Easy off. Tried sanding it down with 220, but there was so many gouges from 40+ years of living. Ended up using a 40 grit flap wheel, then to 80 on an orbital. Just finished the 120 and running out of daylight. Got a whole lot of sanding to go. Maybe I'll finish it by next weekend. Until then, Here's a teaser. I'm thinking of leaving the rubber gap filler out. Also, I think the exhaust tip need moved in.

BumpTuck P.jpg

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^ FYI the bumpers are annodized that is why sanding them is such a pain. If you first dunk the bumper in a solution of drain cleaner and water, it will deannodize the aluminum making it butter for sanding and polishing. Then clear coat the bumper when done.

Edited by Stevenc22

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Thanks S22, That struck a chord in my senior memory when I read it.  I thought it was oven cleaner. I will remember drain cleaner. At least when I get time for the front bumper, I won't be ruining my elbow. Finished pic of the rear. I like it without the "USA" plate lights.

Bump Tuck Pau P.jpg

Edited by GoGo Garnet

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My 76 came with the PO blacked out gauge surround. Since I installed a wooden wheel and shift knob, I wanted to return to a wood surround. Instead of the factory painted version, I used a thin veneer of Bubinga stained with red Chestnut. Topped it all of with Dido's (eBay) gauge bezels. Then, I just had to add some to the dash knobs and odometer reset knob.

After I install the better dash pad, I may want to inset some veneer into the dash. Not unlike the NK's have.

Wonder how much I slowed Gretta down with all this added weight.

Wooden 7-17.jpg

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