Crank Casing (?) leaking.

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Hi Guys.


I've slowly been chipping away on Sundays with the car fixing the PO half-done jobs!


Dizzy no longer leaks, but I found a new one. My guess is the motor was rebuilt with goo and no gaskets, or with old gaskets and goo. It's everywhere. So I've been replacing them..


The timing chain covers seem to be leaking, especially out of the bolt just under the valve cover on the passenger side. (Will try get a photo). I found that the bolt is actually stripped. Can I hell coil a new thread into the head? Is that going to be risky and put metal shavings into my motor?


I would like to do the 4 gaskets on the front, and timing chain all at once, along with the heli coil. Anyone done this? It's not much oil just enough to be annoying and have to wipe once a week.. but I would like to drive long distances so want it ship shape.


Many thanks for any help.


Not my photo but the bolt that has the problemo .. 







Edited by 72_02

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You should be able to catch/control the metal shavings caused while drilling/tapping.

I wince a little bit, when I hear helicoil.  Time serts are similar, but solid, not a loose coil, but a double threaded sleeve.

Here is a photo I stole from the BelMetric site.

Home ::  Time Sert Thread Repair ::  TIME-SERT Metric Kits & Inserts ::  M6X1.0 ::  TS16101 - M6X1.0X9.4 Time-Sert Insert

Product 4/14

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TS16101 - M6X1.0X9.4 Time-Sert Insert

TS16101 - M6X1.0X9.4 Time-Sert Insert





TIME-SERT Insert # 16101 

Steel Insert 9.4mm long


I assume there is room in the aluminum for the larger diameter, but have not done this.

I don't really see why you need a whole 'kit' either.  It seems doable with just a drill and the larger tap size.

Another option is to just tap the hole the next size larger and ream out the thru hole a little, so it accepts the larger fastener.

I doubt there would be 'room' but maybe tapping the whole deeper and then running a longer fastener in to catch those threads?

just throwing out ideas.  SOmeone more knowledgeable will chime in.

mostly I just wanted to say, Helicoil.?. eww... avoid, if possible.


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Yes, you can helicoil that, and no, you can do it cleanly.

Downside is that it will be very hard to do square with the block in the car.

If you can, you might run the insert boring drill through the cover as well, and use the cover as an alignment jig.

If that doesn't make the cover hole too big.

And you have to be careful not to drill in too far, as the boss for the threads ends, and it's possible to drill

through the bottom of it.  It shouldn't really be leaking at all, so I suspect either someone's already done that,

or the gasket/sealant is not making a seal on the inside radius of the boss.  You'll see when you get it apart.


And check to see if maybe it's already been done- it's possible for the insert to back out with the bolt,

maybe on the PO, and you just miss that it's supposed to be in there.


No matter what insert you use (and I don't mind Helicoils on things that don't come apart much, but prefer the timeserts on things that do)

made damned sure that the surface of the insert sits below the sealing surface of the block.  Or it'll hold the case up just a bit, and you'll get

leaks galores around it.





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Ah thank you guys!


Will get to this soon! I'll give the time-sert a go. I didn't know there were options. Excellent!

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I had to helicoil a distributor housing bolt. It sucked doing it with the motor in the car but it worked for a year or two until i pulled the head for a rebuild and had a proper timesert installed.


Helicoil is probably your only option right now if the motor is in the car. Take your time and as toby said, make sure the coil is below the mating surface.

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