body and interior Media blasting, flash rust and painting

[Z3M]

I've started blasting the underside and while it's a bit slow going, I'm pretty happy with the result I'm getting.   That said, I did notice a little flash rust that developed on my newly blasted surface.   I'm wondering if I should clean it up and prime it as I go to protect it as the time between blasting is going to be 5-6 days apart.  I know there's an inhibitor I can buy, but it will be weeks before I am done with the blasting process.

 

Any insights here?

 

['76mintgrün'02]

I don't really have the answer, but I would be tempted to remove the four floor plugs, to make sure their mating surfaces are rust free/painted.  Mine were pretty crusty, but salvageable and not hard to get out.  I did install them with panel sealer, after painting, so they will not likely be easy to remove next time.  Hopefully the prep and paint makes that a moot point.

 

Looking good!

[Son of Marty]

I think I would cover it with rattle can primer at the end of the work period then when the heavy blasting is done and your ready for epoxy primer it should be fast and easy to blast the rattle can stuff off. and yes remove the floor plugs and reseal them.

[Z3M]

I was thinking rattle can as well, but why not just clean exposed metal and go epoxy right off the battle.  Is there a danger I'm not seeing?

[Son of Marty]

I don't know if going right to the epoxy would be a bad thing, but I'm just anal enough to think that putting the epoxy on all at once might give better protection in the long run (no dry edge) you don't want the primer to fail then it's back to square one, like I said I don't know if this would really happen or not, so ask the guy at the paint store what he would do.Plus with  the rattle can there is no clean up of the spray equipment just shot and go home.

[Z3M]

Could I spray the epoxy over the can stuff?  I'd hate to have to blast this thing twice. 

[cwlo]

I'd go straight to epoxy, as you want it on bare metal.  If you go through the trouble to rattle can, and then blast it off, that would be more work than just touching up the flash rust. 

 

Chris

 

[Simeon]

That's nice work by the way. 

 

I would do a single coat of epoxy as you go and don't worry about dry edges. As long as you rough up an 'overlap' on the slightly older primer (assuming you are out of the overcoat window) you will be fine. You can then give the whole surface a further coat when you have done everything. The epoxy will adhere nicely to the blasted finish. 

[Z3M]

Thanks all!  I'll be popping out the drain plugs and will do my epoxy as I go. And being that this is the underside and I'll be doing some sort of undercoat protection on it, I'm not too concerned about dry edges.   

 

As always, very insightful and a great sanity check before I start doing something new.  

[LikeStig]

I used this stuff on my car to protect the metal when it was bare. Prevented flash rust and removes any that comes up, I just needed to go panel by panel ensuring that all the metal is well covered:

 

http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-s-fast-etch.html

[Z3M]

I have this stuff!   My plan was to put this on and wipe off to remove any of the flash rust that come up, and then use a metal cleaner to ensure I've got all the grime off before I go to paint.   It's good to know that what I've got in my head is matching what I should be doing!

 

 

[cwlo]

Just beware that not all epoxy primers will stick to acid etched metal.  

 

Chris