deschodt

Is wing glass frame adjustment possible, inwards ?

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Sorry if my wording is wrong. I mean the triangular framed portion of the door window...

Post resto reassembly and door seal replacement, the top of the frame triangle sits too far out - presumably pushed out by the new seal. It makes the glass threaten to come out of its channel or shatter. I can close the window but I cringe everytime...

 

See how it sticks out on top:

IMG_0925.JPG

 

and how the glass wants to jump out

IMG_0924.JPG

 

I've seen / read the adjustment for the wing frame, up down front rear. My question is tilt... Can the tilt be adjusted ?

The manual says "adjust till the window located neatly on the door aperture" - gee thanks !!!  How about some tilt ? 

 

 

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Yes, that can be adjusted, but you have to remove the armrest, winder, handle, door panel, etc. to get to the adjustments.  Once you have the panel removed, look at the bottom of the door.  The bolts and be loosened and you can tilt the frame in at the top.  But looking at your photos, your side glass is not sitting in the channel correctly, either. 

 

Take time, it is a fussy process.

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fussy is right.  I moved the passenger door wing window in at the top, hoping to cut down on wind noise, but I think I went too far.  That window has progressively gotten worse, in terms of reaching the top; which is a separate problem that I need to address again.  This time I will be pulling all of the window stuff out of the door.

 

Anyway, I read a warning once that said not to put too much pressure in with the wing window, or you will break the strap at the top of the door.  I recently welded that strap for another FAQer, so I now know what they meant.  I also know why my door is splayed at the top and anticipate welding my strap as well.  I don't think my adjustment did the breaking, but I do think I have a lot of fixing to do in there.

 

All that to say, don't put too much inward pressure, it puts strain on the door.

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Are those BMW or aftermarket door seals - aftermarket make the vent window push out

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Also, in that pic, your window is rocking back- there's a separate adjustment to rock it forward.

It should follow the front track no matter where the track sends it.  Methinks you may need

to get personal with the guts of your door...

 

t

 

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Also, in that pic, your window is rocking back- there's a separate adjustment to rock it forward.

It should follow the front track no matter where the track sends it.  Methinks you may need

to get personal with the guts of your door...

 

t

 

Yeah it's odd, the window is out of the track and then jumps back in. I'll have to take the door panel off again.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Take a close look at the piece of channel that the window sits in.  Mine had rusted through and eventually broke.  I'd also had the tipping problem.

 

A guy sent me a used replacement channel, which was also rusted through :angry:

but then he did send a replacement replacement.

 

If your door has any rattles, check out the little nylon grommets that the lever rods run through.  

New ones can sure make things nice and quiet.

 

I would also clean any dry old grease off the sliding portions.

Don't use lithium grease, it dries out.

I think I used a Wurth product and it made them slide smoothly.

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I wish those nylon slider and wheel bits were still available (new).  Can someone with a 3D printer try making them?  

 

Also, you will fight yourself and have a sore arm from trying to roll the windows up after installing factory BMW channel guides in the vent window frame. They are not made correctly - too small and too tight against the glass.  I installed sliding window channel and it works like the factory intended.

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1 hour ago, jgerock said:

Also, you will fight yourself and have a sore arm from trying to roll the windows up after installing factory BMW channel guides in the vent window frame. They are not made correctly - too small and too tight against the glass.  I installed sliding window channel and it works like the factory intended.

 

Jim - do you recall where you sourced this?

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2 hours ago, John_in_VA said:

 

Jim - do you recall where you sourced this?

Search the Internet for:

Standard Products # AS1198-96

 

The -96 indicates it comes in a 96" length. You will have more than enough to do two doors.  Need about 22" per door (I think).

It is more pliable than the stock weatherstripping.  It is used for home sliding glass door frames.

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Decades ago I got mine from Metro Moulded Parts who sell it by dimension.  It was not cheap, but fantastically well- made.

 

I have made rollers out of acetal in the lathe.  They worked pretty well..

 

t

 

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