Dionk

First drive in my 1971 2002

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Well today was the first real drive in my 1971 02! 

 

Technically not the first time I drove my new project, but it's the first drive with an engine firing on more then 2 cylinders. Running through the gears was a hoot! 

 

What a joy....the new Ansa exhaust turned some heads and I got my first. "Hey nice car".

 

As an e30 owner I wasn't sure what to expect. I'm all to aware I have lots of work to do on this car but so far Its been is sooooo much fun....I can't wait to get back behind the wheel.

 

Here are the main items addressed so far since picking up this car that was bound for parting out.

 

- Swapped out the engine and transmission with a 73 02 that's getting the s2000 swap.

- Completly overhauled the rear brakes with the upgrade to e21 drums etc (thanks Rogers tii)

- shift kit 

- rebuilt brake booster (thanks to 2002ad)

- new master cylinder 

- new brake lines

- new parking brake cables (used turbo cables) 

- e21 turbine wheels 

- front and rear bearings 

 

Future projects / desires

- my front and rear suspension is likely 15-20 years old and is showing its age 

- address rust/body/paint/trim and seals

- all new interior (saddle)

 

So I have to admit....I'm not exactly sure what all the knobs and switches do yet (I don't have an owners manual) but I am learning by trying.  For example after several attempts i learned that my high beams stalk is not my turn signal stalk. 

 

Other Newbie things I need to research:

-I have one big red round light on my dash that is lit (just to the left of the center dial). 

- temp gauge ( where should the needle be

- transmission is crunchy on the down shifts. 

 

So excited with my new project car. Can't wait to wash it! 

Edited by Dionk
Typo

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Congratulations : )

 

The red light is the brake warning light.  It lights up when the emergency brake handle is pulled up due to a little switch under the boot.  That would be an easy place to look first.  Another reason for the light to come on is not having enough fluid in the reservoir.  There is a float switch which turns the light on when it gets below a certain level.  I hope it is something simple like that.

 

The temp gauge needle should be about horizontal, once warmed up.  Some are a bit below there.  Mine is.

 

Early transmissions had synchros that wore out and caused crunching.  It helps to match the engine speed to the drivetrain as you let out the clutch.  Shifting slower can help.

 

There could be a parallel between crunchy shifting and the brake light, since the brake fluid reservoir also feeds the hydraulic clutch cylinders.  It is common for the master and slave cylinders to leak.  

 

Keep up the good work.  Sounds like you are having fun.

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Welcome to the club! I'm an E30 owner as well and love the personalities of each of the cars. Great to see the suspension on top of your list of things to do.  I just had the suspension of my 75 addressed. I lowered the car about 1.5 inches in the process which means it's not near as low as my 318is, but it's a night and day difference from where it was before. Along with the addition of Bilstein shock absorbers and the sway bars, the improvement in handling makes the 75 about as good as it gets, though it won't match the E30 with its own upgraded suspension. I have lots of mountain roads around me. The different driving characteristics and responsiveness of each car is hugely satisfying.  I suspect you will not be getting bored any time soon.

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2 hours ago, Dionk said:

-I have one big red round light on my dash that is lit (just to the left of the center dial). 

- temp gauge ( where should the needle be

- transmission is crunchy on the down shifts. 

 

On your '71 that big red light only indicates low brake fluid--roundies didn't have the e-brake warning light switch.  If the float assembly is missing from inside your brake fluid reservoir, then the light will stay on all the time.  Check to see if it's there, that the two wires that connect to the fluid reservoir cap are in place, and the brass contact on the cap's underside is not stuck.  If that all checks out, you've got low fluid from either a leak in the brakes or the clutch hydraulics.  

 

Needle on the temp gauge should ideally be at three o'clock--but that's highly dependent on air temperature, your thermostat (they come in three different opening temperatures), cooling fan size (some early cars have the small four blade fan vs the later 5 blade one), radiator and cap condition etc.  Even the sender unit itself can be poorly grounded (it grounds through the threads) and the gauge itself is notorious for having a poor ground.  Check the FAQ archives for lotsa troubleshooting info on coolant systems.

 

You have the early gearbox with Porsche-style synchros, and 2nd gear in particular is subject to quick wear.  There are few if any non-rebuilt early gearboxes that don't crunch.  You can (1) find a later gearbox with Borg-Warner design synchros, (2) have yours rebuilt (3) learn to live with it or (4)--and easiest--learn how to double-clutch downshift.  

 

And BTW, welcome to the fraternity/sorority.  Lots of fun for you ahead.

 

cheers

mike

Edited by mike

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All, I really appreciate the welcome and the advice. I will check the items suggested and report back. 

 

Mike - I have already watched a few you tube videos on double clutching...seems pretty straight forward.  Will put it to the test this morning. 

 

Temp gauge was riding between 1 and 2 o'clock position.  I have all new hoses and thermostat/water pump. Though the outside temp was in the upper 80s when I drove it yesterday.

 

thanks

Dion

 

ps car nickname picked.

 

"Moby" ....yes yes because it's a whale of a project!

 

 

 

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Glad to hear that you got it on the road.  I remember you running into a number of "surprises" from the previous owner early on.  Enjoy the fruits of your labor!

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Good job on the '71! 

 +1 on on what others are saying about the float in the brake reservoir causing the light on the dash. If you're missing the float, you can unplug the wires at the reservoir cap to keep from burning out the dash light. Replacement reservoir caps do not include floats, so finding a replacement float takes some digging.

 

Temps should not be so high, especially on a mild day.  Our cooling systems are prone to trapping air in them and need to be "burped".  Since you are already driving around, I'd suggest turning on the heater (actuate the heater valve to circulate coolant into the heater core) and crack the radiator cap to "vent" the system as you drive home. After it's cooled off, remove the radiator cap and check fluid level, topping off if necessary.

 

If you find the coolant levels are normal and it still runs warm, you may need to recore/replace the rad.

 

Was the car originally a Tii (rear emblem) ?

 

Ed

 

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1 hour ago, zinz said:

Was the car originally a Tii (rear emblem) ?

 

I just noticed that too.

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Welcome to the '02 world !!

 

My favorite place to find the many "bits and pieces/odds & ends" is 2002AD in Pomona, CA.  Ben The Owner has a warehouse full of used stuff:   www.2002AD.com    I've been a customer for almost 40 years and 2002AD has always had what I was looking for, or knew where to find it.

 

Cheers,

 

Carl

 

Edited by OriginalOwner

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11 hours ago, zinz said:

 

 

Was the car originally a Tii (rear emblem) ?

 

Ed

 

Not a TII - Previous owner glued it on.  I bought a used 2002 emblem from eBay that I will put on at some point. In the mean time I'm an "imposter"

 

hopefully the Tii badge comes off in one piece.

Edited by Dionk
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6 hours ago, jmr_1602 said:

Where in VA are you located? Nice car!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Arlington! 

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