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I recently acquired an Inca (I think) 73 2002tii that has been off the road for over 20 years. I owned a 1600 20 years ago before I transitioned to larger 7 series cars...but I digress. The engine on my car is stuck hard. I've been soaking it for weeks and trying to be patient. I've added WD40, diesel and now using Marvel. I have not confirmed it is the original motor but it is so filthy I think is has to be. I would describe the car as "fair" condition.

 

If I put the car in gear... it rolls so maybe the car was parked due to a bad clutch years ago? Should I just remove the entire engine and trans? In the meantime I've been playing with the locks. The car came with no keys. I was able to have a key made from the passenger door lock and it fit the ignition! Is the trunk lock supposed to be keyed like the doors or different?

 

A girlfriend's dad 30 years ago had one of these cars and it was on my bucket list. I should have waited for a better car, but I'm impulsive and the car was local so I bit the bullet. It is like hell out there where the car is, 100 degrees and mosquitoes. Why do I torture myself?  

 

Thanks, Don in Dallas, TX 

image1.JPG

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3 minutes ago, ProjectCar said:

Is the trunk lock supposed to be keyed like the doors or different?

It is keyed different.  There is a code on the trunk lock cylinder as well and I believe some locksmiths can cut you a new key with that code.

 

Welcome and congrats on your purchase!

Edited by repoman

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I will take the trunk lock back to the same locksmith. The driver's lock is missing and I read this is common. Will I be able to find just a lock or do I need to rob one from a door different handle? There were some assorted spares in the trunk.

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On July 19, 2016 at 3:03 PM, ProjectCar said:

....Why do I torture myself?  

 

Thanks, Don in Dallas, TX 

image1.JPG

 

Dear Tortured in Dallas,

 

I would say that that single image provides everything we need to answer your question!  There appear to be not one, but at least two British roadsters under the shed roof, showing that you are likely a car masochist beyond saving or the possibility of redemption.

 

Excellent.  Carry on!

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

 

 

But semi-seriously, how are you trying to break the engine loose now that it's been soaking for weeks?  Starter motor?  Enormous breaker bar?  Prayers?

 

And, com'on now, surely you can scrape and wire brush the dirt from the engine number boss sufficiently to determine whether your car has the original block!

Edited by Conserv

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I did remove the air cleaner the other day so I now have access to the see the numbers on the engine, will do that this weekend. Maybe I will still need a mirror? I'm using a breaker bar on my 3/4 ratchet to try to turn it. The car had no radiator so this fits. I'm guessing the radiator was missing because someone before me was trying to turn the motor but I have no evidence of that. I have not tried to put a battery in the car yet as I just got an ignition key the other day. It was hell moving the car with the ignition locked. Both tie rods we seriously bent, I think damage done by a wrecker. I partially removed the tie rods and was finally able to get them all the way off when I could finally turn the steering.

 

I should have named myself ProjectCars. Sold two different Vanagons in the last month, still have one. I have a stuck BMW motorcycle engine I'm soaking too.

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Could a seized starter motor cause the engine to be locked up?  Who can answer that question?
 

If you can't loosen up the engine, I guess the head has to come off to see the state of the cylinder walls. 

 

The car doesn't look so bad that your pistons would be seized.   And not necessarily the worst climate to leave a car dormant, outside.

Here's hoping.

 

Welcome.  Wishing you the best of luck with your new acquisition.

 

 

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Looks pretty solid from those pictures--none of the obvious rust that plagues 2002s...hopefully the hidden places are also rust-free.  

 

You can get a pretty good idea of cylinder condition by pulling the plugs and examining them--if you haven't already.  And don't get too frisky with that 3/4" socket and cheater bar--you can bend something expensive with too much force.  A friend and I got an engine to turn over by grabbing just the fan--and it had been sitting outside, uncovered in Ohio for 15+ years.  So in your climate chances are good that yours isn't completely stuck.  You might try pulling the valve cover off and see if there are any stuck valves.  One stuck valve can keep the whole engine from turning.  

 

That looks like a Bugeye Sprite lurking behind the Triumph...and a cherry red one--I've got one of them too.

 

welcome to the madness...ah...fraternity/sorority!

 

cheers

mike

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I took the valve cover off a few days ago and it looked surprising good in there. I poured some Marvel over the valves. How would I check for a stuck valve, try to physically pry/push each valve downward with a screwdriver or something?

 

The car under the tarp is a TR3B project waiting my attention (not stuck)! 

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Post your location.  It helps a lot with questions like this.  I can't nail it from your foliage....

 

If you're using 3/4" hardware on the crank and getting nowhere, it's time to take the head off.  It's only 10 bolts...

 

(no, Paul, the starter motor would shear at the 3/4- drive- with- a- pipe level)

 

I suspect you'll find 3 pistons in roughly the same locations.

 

The good news is that the bottom ends of these things are almost as durable as International Harvester could make them.

Pistons are expensive, but the rest of it's very easy to find.

You want to hope that the head's save- able, as they're getting to be harder to find: they're not rare, just lower in supply, in good shape. 

 

One of these years I think I want a TR6, myself.  It's one of the best 60-ifications of the classic 50s roadsters ever done. 

They got the wheel size right, for one, and the number of cylinders right, for two...  now, if there was ever a TR6GT, THAT would be it for me...

 

t

 

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I'm in Dallas, TX. I don't think I've ever removed an OHC head on a car. I'm leary of losing the cam chain but that will be my plan to remove the head ASAP.

 

The TR6 with the factory steel hardtop is nice and looks great. The fiberglass tops are not as pretty but they aren't as heavy either. I'm going to try driving the 6 this winter with a hardtop. The 6 needs the exercise but I'm not driving it in the heat of summer. 

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I wrestled the intake off yesterday and confirmed that I still have the original matching engine block. I plan to fight with the exhaust today. From the looks of the rust, surely it has never been off. The bolts at the down pipe are likely to twist off so I just sprayed them yesterday. I might try to unbolt the exhaust manifold from the head and pull the head off with the manifold still on the down pipe. 

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Now that we all know you have the same engine block and body, please post what the number is:   276xxxx

 

Did you try to get any info from the PO (or their family) about the car and why the radiator was missing and tie rods were bent?

 

Any documentation inside the car or trunk that would reveal anything about the car?

 

BMWCCA decal in back window +1

Trapezoid mirror on door +1

Cool alloy wheels (Enkei perhaps) +1

Paint still looks buff-outable + 100

 

Mechanicals are much easier than body work...

 

Jim

Edited by jgerock

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I am 2763346. The wheels are American Racing (only in fair condition like everything on the car. The car needs a lot of work but right now I'm home so I have some time. I went on severance from my job of 25 years in March.  My days consist of looking for jobs online and repairing projects out back. It could be worse. I will watch some baseball on TX tonight...like usual.

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