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SnowDriftin44

What do you think of this crank?

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Hey I'm going to try and pick this block and crank up when I get home. It's for my long overdue first turbo build, so if you know where this is for sale please don't take it! I neeeeeed (waaaaant) this junk! The block is getting overbored, there's no cracks, and the waterpassages look fine so I'm not sweating that. (The plan is: used stock 135mm rods rebalanced, and probably a set of used 90mm forged slugs if I can find them.) I'm wondering what you think about the crank? Polish the journals and call it good? The pics look like dirt not rust. Or maybe I should go first undersize, knife edge the counterweights, and rebalance it with the whole rotating assembly? What would you do with it? It's dirt cheap so even if it costs a bit to machine, it should work well for my budget (lol).

 

On another note: I was trying to find a useful topic on crankshaft end play and measuring journals and stuff, but I couldn't find it. Anyone else having trouble finding shit since the update?

 

Edit: Seriously please don't buy it, I already missed out on one cheapo turbo deal because of being at sea. Cut me a break guys!

 

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Edited by SnowDriftin44

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There might be a little rust, but that's probably ok.

 

The thing you just can't know is if the inside of the crank throws is worn- that's where they usually go.

And they're tough- when I was downsizing, I couldn't GIVE cranks away.  So if this isn't the one,

keep looking.

 

t

 

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Most of your questions are best suited for your machinist, not us looking at a couple photos.

 

Have your machinist do the following ...

-Balance the crank to check for straightness

-Inspect the mains and rods.  Polish at a minimum, undersize at the maximum (based on the recommendations of your machinist).

 

You can lighten your rotating assembly by other means, if the cost of the knife edging is too much (lightened flywheel, lighter rods).  On the subject of rods, run ARP rod bolts at a minimum, if you plan on running the stockers.

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+1 on letting your machinist determine what needs to be done to the crank.  From my own experience, the crank that came out of my '73 with 204k miles was still within specs on both rod and main journals, and only needed polishing.  But you don't know the history on this one you're buying, so have it micced and checked for straightness, etc.

 

End play specs are in the factory manual; it should be on-line somewhere.

 

cheers and have fun with your rebuild.  

 

mike

 

PS You might be surprised at the cylinder bore condition... my 73's cylinder bores only showed .003 thous wear, but I bored to the first oversize anyway since I had a nice set of new oversize pistons...

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That's kinda what I figured, better to ask a machinist. I just wanted to see if there was something huge I'm overlooking.

 

Do you guys usually balance the whole rotating assembly on a budget build or is balancing individual pieces usually good enough for a stock revving motor?

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Individual balancing will get you a long way. Have been this road with my turbo engines long time and had no issues so far.

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run ARP rod bolts

 

Andrew, is there now an ARP bolt that fits the stock rod?

 

When I looked into it, they didn't have anything that would work- but that was a while ago.

 

t

 

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HOLY CATS  they finally did it.  There were years of 'minimum orders' and 'too- small shoulders'  and no bolts.

 

Now they are right there, and hardly any more than OE. 

 

Says he with the Pauter rods... 

 

t

 

who was, technically, cheating...

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4 minutes ago, TobyB said:

HOLY CATS  they finally did it.  There were years of 'minimum orders' and 'too- small shoulders'  and no bolts.

 

Now they are right there, and hardly any more than OE. 

 

Says he with the Pauter rods... 

 

t

 

who was, technically, cheating...

 

Ha,  I begged. Jeff begged.  Sent samples, sent desired specs, .....sent a reminder email every couple months .... years of nada.  Then about a year ago they called and said, "OK, let's do this."  It was at that moment I realized that the 02 "had arrived".

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Heh.  Probably means I can't afford one now, right???

 

t

 

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Haha I'm with you there Toby, prices have been climbing lately! I think it was that Clarion Builds car that auctioned for like 100k. Everyone refrences that car when they're trying to sell a rotting square tail.

 

Andrew, that's pretty cool that I.E. has enough influence these days to get ARP to make something! Next thing you know, Paxton or Weiand is going to be putting out a bolt on blower kit for the M10! 

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This 2002 s###'s still just BMW copying and improving on the VW bug... but then, Porsche WAS the VW bug, and look what has happened to the chrome bumper 91x market...

 

Bullsh#t Jackson and EPay don't set prices, but you're right, they DO make craigslisters think they have gold mines...

 

It wasn't just IE, it was all of us calling, talking, and getting quoted a minimum run of 500 or a thousand fasteners...  when the OE fasteners started failing at 7650 rpm.  It IS cool that they finally did it.

 

t

 

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