Jump to content
  • When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

No money to tune, Going it my own. Weber DCOE40-32's Schrick 292


2002Scoob

Recommended Posts

Side question regarding the installation of the AFR gauge, which will likely be my weekend project-

 

There's two directions I might go in-

 

1, just making a simple gauge mount in the Glove Box to keep it hidden and out of the way (its only really needed for tuning, and the occasional on-the-fly diagnosis for "WTF is my engine doing?!"

 

2. In the stock location for the dash clock on tacho-equipped cars. My dash is un-cut here, but if you push on the vinyl where the clock would go, you can see there's circular recess pre-cut out behind it, and it's larger than the 52mm gauge size, so it would work perfectly here. Downside- I just put a hole in my almost crack-free dash.

 

Does anyone know how much depth/space there is in back of the clock-mount? I've taken apart all the press-board panels under the dash so many times, laziness and frustration are keeping me from doing it again just to find out, haha.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 hours ago, zinz said:

Innova advancing timing light with tachometer should be about $75-$140 USD... available online lots of places.

 

 

Is this the guy you're talking about? Pretty cheap, if so I'll pull the trigger.

 

http://www.ebay.de/itm/INNOVA-ELECTRONICS-CORPORATION-ADVANCE-TIMING-LIGHT-/321984966646?hash=item4af7ccaff6:g:uW4AAOSw~oFXKmRp

Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 hours ago, zinz said:

That be the one... here's the pic, sans rodentia

 

AirCooled-VW-Dual-Carburetor-Synchronizer-Synchrometer-AC000120-Carb-Sync

 

So simple, even a two-rock monkey can use it.

 

 

Over 30 years playing with DCOE Webers and I never did buy a synchoniser.  I simply use a 2 Ft piece of garden hose to listen to the suck at the mouth of the trumpet, a bit like a stethoscope. I agree that it is rare that each butterfly is exact, with there being a slight bend in most shafts. I do sometimes check in the setup, the position of the butterflies in regards the progression holes that are under the small brass screws near the front.  I use a piece of thin copper wire down one of the progression holes to work out the butterfly position, or with a torch you may be able to see the edge of the butterfly.  I would go with the jets you currently have as a start.  If your carbs only have two progression holes, I have been able to improve the transition from idles to mains by drilling a third hole with a 30thou number drill.

'73 BMW 2002Tii,'89 Renault Alpine GTA V6 Turbo,'56 Renault 4CV with 16 TS motor, 

 '76 BMW R90S, '68 BMW R60/2, '51 BMW R51/3, '38 BMW R71

Ipswich, Australia.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

41 minutes ago, AlanM said:

Over 30 years playing with DCOE Webers and I never did buy a synchoniser.  I simply use a 2 Ft piece of garden hose to listen to the suck at the mouth of the trumpet, a bit like a stethoscope. I agree that it is rare that each butterfly is exact, with there being a slight bend in most shafts. I do sometimes check in the setup, the position of the butterflies in regards the progression holes that are under the small brass screws near the front.  I use a piece of thin copper wire down one of the progression holes to work out the butterfly position, or with a torch you may be able to see the edge of the butterfly.  I would go with the jets you currently have as a start.  If your carbs only have two progression holes, I have been able to improve the transition from idles to mains by drilling a third hole with a 30thou number drill.

 

 

Yup, I'm familiar with the garden hose method :) but I like the precision understanding of a gauge to begin with. 

 

The carbs are both 3 hope progression circuits, whether they started life as that, I have no idea. While I've got the carbs off the car I'll take a closer look at how the throttle plates mesh with the progression holes and confirm. I like your idea of using a torch to verify. Will take a look and report back :)

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, whs.de said:

Do you want german TÜV?

 

 

 

 

 

Very Much So. What causes your concern?

 

I'm under the impression I should not have any issues with my current modifications. The car currently has H-Plates, and any "modifications" must be deemed from the era. Given that DCOE's/side drafts were not only factory, but common modifications, I'd think this shouldn't be an issue. I also highly doubt TUV will care or notice a camshaft, they're usually too busy poking around the wheel wells with screwdrivers looking for rust, or the errant oil weeping from a seal.

 

Are you referring more to the inclusion of the wideband?

Edited by 2002Scoob
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The squirrel cage is a cheap but effective tool for synchronizing. I think I paid $25 from some VW place. Worth every penny. HOWEVER, after spending hours screwing around with the carbs, I was advised to reset timing to at least 33 deg at full advance and that sorted things out. So I'd be buying and using the timing light before changing jets, etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Scoob,

 

I'd be hesitant to cut the crack-free dash to mount the AFR gauge... I'd put it in the center console and leave that dash spot for a proper Tii clock.

 

The timing light you linked will be fine.  This Actron is what I currently use and I like it. https://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP7529-Digital-Timing-Light/dp/B000BSY9JE

 

I'm with Hans about the timing. Simply put, side drafts need more advance. ...but even before timing, a proper valve adjustment is the starting place of a full tune up.

 

I'm also with Toby about checking sync on all barrels.  My Solexes are adjustable between barrels, so I must know what's going on... using a manometer allows me to know how each one is behaving.

 

To add to the equation; once you get up and running, be sure to pull your plugs and check their color/condition.  (Read up on how to do a "plug chop".)  The AFR will tell you rich/lean of the entire exhaust plume, but won't tell you if only one or two cylinders are the culprit. 

 

So, it seems we have the horse way out in front of the cart at this point.  

 

Ed

'69 Granada... long, long ago  

'71 Manila..such a great car

'67 Granada 2000CS...way cool

Link to comment
Share on other sites

30 minutes ago, zinz said:

So, it seems we have the horse way out in front of the cart at this point.  

 

Thats exactly where I like my horses :) 

 

Now only if WHS would please reply about TUV.... TUV is my one sworn enemy that can wreck all hopes and dreams at any time. It can reduce grown men to tears, and destroy passions and momentum with a simple NEIN, sending you into a deep dark hole of the internet hunting and searching for months for the proper paper work that can set you free.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, zinz said:

I'd be hesitant to cut the crack-free dash to mount the AFR gauge... I'd put it in the center console and leave that dash spot for a proper Tii clock.

 

The timing light you linked will be fine.  This Actron is what I currently use and I like it. https://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP7529-Digital-Timing-Light/dp/B000BSY9JE

 

I'm with Hans about the timing. Simply put, side drafts need more advance. ...but even before timing, a proper valve adjustment is the starting place of a full tune up.

 

I'm also with Toby about checking sync on all barrels.  My Solexes are adjustable between barrels, so I must know what's going on... using a manometer allows me to know how each one is behaving.

I am with Ed, aside from the timing light...

 

Innova 5568 light has been working well for me.

For fifteen dollars more than the Actron, you get a built in voltmeter and dwell meter, along with the tach and advance features.  Plus it is RED and Black and Hinged and Rubber coated...

 

https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-5568-Pro-Timing-Light-Tool/dp/B000EVU8J8/ref=pd_sbs_263_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=31iTkpNajDL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=5XJES25JSM34GBEBDTYV

 

Or buy one of these

s-l1600.jpg

 

 

     DISCLAIMER -- I now disagree with much of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book as timing maps for our engines.  I've also switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results.  I apologize for spreading misinformation. 

(3-28-2024)  

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

28 minutes ago, whs.de said:

It is easy, do you have a "Gutachten" for the modification?

 

Nope, not yet. Finding approvals and and paper work is something I haven't gotten to yet. If you have some recommendations on where to start looking, I'd love the help!  I had just planned to take it over to the local TUV station once it's completed and ask them what I would need to get it through, and start from there. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2002Scoob If you are looking for a base line:

Here's the weber settings: Twin weber 40 dcoe 34 chokes 4.5 Aux Vent 40 pump jets 55 pump exh 140 mains 180 air corr F9 Emulsion 55f8 idle jets

Cam is a 292 with 10.5 compression.

3410619 - 74 1802 Verona Touring

3460120 - 74 Verona Touring....... (Sold) sent off to LA.

2760306 - Ultimate driving machine Skidmark 204 car. 72 Inka (Sold)

Formerly the old and slow division of Skidmark Racing. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Bob!! I appreciate it, and have added it to my car notes for the future. 

 

I'm currently pretty set on the 32mm chokes and F16 E-Tubes, so I think I'm going to stick with those and tune around them for now. They're bought and paid for, so I'm trying to avoid purchasing too much additional stuff. 

 

But having your recipe is great for when I go to rebuild the bottom end, or try out 34mm chokes in the future. Once I save up for the next 6-8 months, the bottom end/5speed/LSD are my next steps. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • BMW Neue Klasse - a birth of a Sports Sedan

    BMW Neue Klasse - a birth of a Sports Sedan

    Unveiling of the Neue Klasse Unveiled in 1961, BMW 1500 sedan was a revolutionary concept at the outset of the '60s. No tail fins or chrome fountains. Instead, what you got was understated and elegant, in a modern sense, exciting to drive as nearly any sports car, and yet still comfortable for four.   The elegant little sedan was an instant sensation. In the 1500, BMW not only found the long-term solution to its dire business straits but, more importantly, created an entirely new
    History of the BMW 2002 and the 02 Series

    History of the BMW 2002 and the 02 Series

    In 1966, BMW was practically unknown in the US unless you were a touring motorcycle enthusiast or had seen an Isetta given away on a quiz show.  BMW’s sales in the US that year were just 1253 cars.  Then BMW 1600-2 came to America’s shores, tripling US sales to 4564 the following year, boosted by favorable articles in the Buff Books. Car and Driver called it “the best $2500 sedan anywhere.”  Road & Track’s road test was equally enthusiastic.  Then, BMW took a cue from American manufacturers,
    The BMW 2002 Production Run

    The BMW 2002 Production Run

    BMW 02 series are like the original Volkswagen Beetles in one way (besides both being German classic cars)—throughout their long production, they all essentially look alike—at least to the uninitiated:  small, boxy, rear-wheel drive, two-door sedan.  Aficionados know better.   Not only were there three other body styles—none, unfortunately, exported to the US—but there were some significant visual and mechanical changes over their eleven-year production run.   I’ve extracted t

  • Upcoming Events

  • Supporting Vendors

×
×
  • Create New...