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Replacement for interior plastic fuel line?


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On July 5, 2016 at 10:00 PM, AceAndrew said:

 

 

Protip: If you are running lengths of stainless flex line from a fixed chassis point to the vibrating engine, support both ends prior to the fittings so as to not fatigue the fitting.

 

 

 

Also: for high vibration applications (Toby might say every M10) combined with steel braided lines, consider using steel fitting rather than aluminum (which as partial reason, I believe, for the failure for which Andrew's post quietly references). In this install, the line is loosely 'supported' by the strut brace. -KB

 

image.jpeg

 

 

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Actually I was talking about bending up Stainless steel brake line and essentially makeing hardline fuel runs to go from the tank to the engine compartment.

 

From the hardlines to the engine and from the tank to the hardlines would be ethanol rated black rubber fuel hose (SAE 30R6).

 

Running the hardlines under the car instead of through the interior makes a certain amount of sense.

 

This was the path I took for my 914 (except using 30R9 hose for fuel injection).

 

So long as the soft plastic is not effected by ethanol - and does not break down over time, maybe I'll just buy more of that and put it back in.  That would be the easiest path.


Zach 

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  • 4 months later...

I have a question re: lines.

 

My car has a single line the entire way from tank to carb - it's the plastic lined 8x13 BMW type.

 

I'm guessing this is 13 outer 8 inner on the sizing?

 

There is no return line. Would no return give me any issues on starvation?

 

I'm thinking of replacing as I have not done since owning the car. Also a new pump.

 

 

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I ended up buying a 25 foot spool of cunifer tubing and will run my fuel lines under the car.  Probably tucked up under the rockers or following a body contour line.  I have not got the car on a lift yet to look.  Need to replace the floor pans before I deal with running fuel lines.
Zach

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Just for reference:

In all factory tii's, the fuel line functions are reversed relative to carb'd '02s. The tii rear-mounted pump feeds fuel at a regulated 28 psi to the KF through the steel line that is routed under the car body. It's the same line that is used for the return line on standard 2002s. The plastic line, routed through the passenger compartment same as standard '02s, is used as the low pressure return line from the KF to the tank. Fuel circulates constantly in the tii system. BMW's engineers must have thought this was safe, even in the '70s.

 

For you folks who have mounted electric fuel pumps in the trunk on carb'd vehicles and continue to use the plastic line, you may want to rethink pressurizing this line from the trunk. Any leak that develops will deposit fuel inside the passenger compartment as long as the pump is running. The plastic fuel line is normally a fuel suction line drawing fuel from the tank using the engine-mounted fuel pump. With the engine-driven pump, a leak would tend to draw air into the line and only drip a little bit after the engine is shut off. Cracked rubber lines near the fuel tank tend to cause fuel delivery problems because suction is lost and the pump starts pumping more and more air (instead of fuel) as the leaks increase, until the engine becomes starved for fuel and ceases to run.

 

Jerry

no bimmer, for now

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Just a side note:

if anyone decides to re-enlist the steel fuel return line (feed line / tii) take a close look at where it runs by the pedal box.

My leaking clutch master caused that line to corrode and it leaked when I put it back into service.  I added a length of rubber hose and it serves my low pressure needs.

 

+1 for inspecting the lines between the sender and the plastic line.

 

 

 

     DISCLAIMER 

I now disagree with some of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book. 

I've switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results. 

I apologize for spreading misinformation.  

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  • 5 months later...
  • 1 year later...

I’m in the garage as we speak attempting to run my gas line through the firewall as we speak. The old hose is still in there for the most part. I’ve loosened it the best I can but it takes some tugging to move it. The carpet is out but The firewall still has the composite insulation. I tried to remove it but there is a clip at the top holding it in place. What’s the best way to tackle this? Thanks

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On 7/5/2016 at 3:59 PM, TobyB said:

Been a while since we did this one...

 

I ran steel line underneath the car instead.

Very satisfactory.  Less flambe'.

Yes, I set the plastic line on the inside on fire with a welder,

he says proudly.

 

t

 

Toby can you send some pics of how your routed it and where/how you attached it?

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4 minutes ago, mmbingo said:

Toby can you send some pics of how your routed it and where/how you attached it?

 

( ; don't hold your breath ; )

 

 

  • Haha 1

     DISCLAIMER 

I now disagree with some of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book. 

I've switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results. 

I apologize for spreading misinformation.  

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