deschodt

Finally, wheels that fit !!!

14 posts in this topic Last Reply

Recommended Posts

Not a biggie for most of you, but I've been struggling with correct wheel offset and tire size for years. On top of it I (not so) cleverly installed a smaller diameter momo wheel to replace the disintegrating original steering wheel. Net result: Super heavy steering at low speeds, rubbing, and a stork stance to clear bumps.

 

Those Rota were suppose to fit, correct offset etc . They never did on my car... See below, not the most obvious pic but you see it's borderline.

 

FullSizeRender 5.jpg

 

So I got and painted a set of 14" E30 steelies...  Also instead of 195/50/15, went to 185/65/14. They are significantly taller and fill the fenders better, yet - that's the key for me - sit inside the fender with a proper offset, appear to rub on nothing inside either -> note the offset difference ! (ignore my totally misaligned trunk trim however, thank you for not noticing ;-)

 

imageproxy.php?img=&key=c723ef59fd17d18fIMG_0776.JPG

 

Overall I love the look... They felt heavy off the car, but are not heavier than the Rotas with tires based on me lifting them... Should have weighed them..

The steering wheel effort is mystifyingly halved ! The tire size difference alone is small, 1 cm of width removed... I imagine the wheels being more inside reduced the track and that helped ? Anyway, happy, except...

 

IMG_0775.JPG

 

 

...the only issue with this operation, I noticed a significant drag on the driver side front wheel when jacked... It's not the new wheel, it's a drag... I guess bearing issue or most likely caliper/swollen brake line... It's not noticeable when driving, but it's like the handbrake is "on" by 2 clicks (if the handbrake operated in the front, which I know it does not)... Next project I guess... Unless you guys tell me that's normal ? I don't recall the passenger side doing that...

 

Edited by deschodt

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Figure out the brake problem before it leaves you stranded, been there done that. Frozen caliper ordered bearings will stop you in your tracks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
16 minutes ago, GoFaSSter said:

Figure out the brake problem before it leaves you stranded, been there done that. Frozen caliper ordered bearings will stop you in your tracks.

 

Yeah that's the next thing... I'm not a brake expert but I figured that was not normal.. Thing is I'd have never known if I had not jacked up that corner....  Gonna farm that out... I've been messing with the car for 2 months, I'm not sure what brakes I have (might have been upgraded early on)... For grins I'll take that wheel off tomorrow and look so see if it's obvious, like a pad dragging..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You want to track the brake issue...you do not want it to heat up and bind.

 

Very nice look...subdued but very classic.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
20 hours ago, BeMyWay said:

You want to track the brake issue...you do not want it to heat up and bind.

 

Very nice look...subdued but very classic.  

 

No kidding ! I verified I was not crazy. Passenger side turns super easy. Driver side front is locked. Unless I put a wheel on it, and turn hard, it won't move... crazy ! I could not move the hub by grabbing the studs (no wheel). Definitely seems like a brake line is shot... I would never have found out if not for the change of wheels - the car brakes OK, in line too... But clearly that is not a good thing - and I never had to emergency brake it either ! Sometimes it's better to be lucky than good !  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hopefully it is just that the rubber line has swollen shut.

You can check that by loosening the bleeder valve and seeing if the caliper releases when the pressure is let out.

 

If it does not, then you probably have rust in the cylinder bores. I had dragging brakes for that reason and chose to rebuild my stock calipers, by removing that rust.  The rest of the caliper was fine, aside from the outer 1/4" beyond the seal.  I would be happy to share that experience, if you decide to rebuild yours.  The other option, of course, is to buy new, or remanufactured replacements.

 

Let's hope it is just the flex line(s) that need replacing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Remanufactured calipers aren't that expensive, but this is most probably due to swollen rubber lines. You and your wife will have a great time bonding when bleeding the brakes also ;-)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You can hope that it's a swollen brake line, but calipers do wear out.  I'd be more inclined to think it's a caliper problem.  Using a flat head screw driver as a wedge and lever, you can carefully push the caliper pistons back into their cylinders.  Apply brakes again and see if it retracts on it's own.  Probably not. 

 

Replace calipers (BOTH!) and get stainless brake lines.  You'll be glad you did.  And don't drive too far as is.  That overheating will warp your rotor FOR SURE.

 

As for bonding with your wife while bleeding brakes?  Mine opted to buy me a power-bleeder for our anniversary.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Brake lines checked out, caliper did not. The mechanic replaced just the one - thinks the car sitting for 2y during resto doomed that one... Brakes OK now, but.... the pedal has more travel now. It used to be super firm from the top, now I got dead travel before it brakes... Maybe that's normal, I don't have another 2002 to compare with, I think I might re-bleed the system....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 7/5/2016 at 9:51 AM, PaulTWinterton said:

Replace calipers (BOTH!)

I tend to agree with this.

 

There is a proper sequence to bleeding 2002 calipers, which your mechanic may not be aware of.

Even though I have read it many times (and even done it), I don't recall the order off the top of my head.

Easy one to bring up in a search, using 'upper inner outer'.

 

There should not be 2" of travel.

Pressure bleeding works very well, but it can still take a few tries to get all the air out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now