body and interior Heater upgrades?

[2002newb]

Because I hate doing things more than once, and the with the entire interior pulled apart ( with the exception of the dash and headliner ) I decided to take the heater box out for inspection.

 

Have never been in this car when it was running so I always wonder what works and what doesn't. 

 

As usual with this car everything came out without any major problems - this site is as ALWAYS a wealth of information when I get stuck. 

 

It looked to be in good shape, no broken pieces on the fan cage and the cables all moved freely, and when I hooked it up to a power source the fan came to life. It did have a little noise when it first started but after a few minutes it quieted down. 

 

So so the question is if I tear it down, should say when as I doubt I can put it back in without ensuring it will work for years to come, are there any upgrades that can or should be done? This car won't be driven in winter but on those cold mornings I would prefer not bundling up to stay warm. 

 

 

Edited June 26, 2016 by 2002newb
Fat fingers little keyboard

[Road trip]

Bypass it

[roadhog0]

Not that I know of. Most of us think the heater in these cars is pretty darn good! Ask our burning right foot

[Son of Marty]

Take it apart and renew all the seals on the flaps, clean and lube the fan, get the core cleaned and tested and you'l be good for another couple of decades.

[OriginalOwner]

+1 Son Of Marty.

 

also:

1)  the valve on the heater core input, make sure it operates and does not leak ...... (scope creep) disassemble, clean, reassemble with new o-rings.  There's a few FAQ threads on the topic.

2)  replace that shorty piece of radiator hose between the valve and the heater core inlet.

 

Cheers,

 

Carl

 

[2002newb]

Thanks for the advice. Had read numerous write ups on rebuilding these things and was happy to see that things didn't look too bad when mine came out - the fan grill wasn't broken the heater valve wasn't rusted and it moved without lubing it. But when the fan was running it really didn't feel like there was that much air moving. 

 

As I mentioned earlier I haven't had the pleasure of driving this car and the last time I was in an 02 that actually moved on its own was 30 plus years ago. Will keep it simple and just do a rebuild on the one I have and go from there.

 

Cheers

[Russell74Fjord]

also, some if not all these are available, purchase all the rubber pieces that line around the air box, there is a seal on the hood, and a seal right in the middle of the hood too, seals on either ends, unique rubber seals for each of the hoses the exit out of the heater through the fire wall. And the rubber seals where the hoses exit the heater itself. BENCH TEST everything PRIOR to re-installing. Flaps, motor, etc. I don't think you need to pump anti freeze or water through it, so long as you test the heater core. I have tested them by rigging up some hoses, plugging one end, and clamping a bike tire air pump to the other and pressurizing it, dunking it a pail of water. Oh and reverse flush the heater core once it is out to remove the grit, etc. I use 3M strip caulking to install, black tarry stuff pre-formed into long strips. sticky, but not horrible, and seems to last forever.  Re-installing can go easy, so long as you line up everything, sort hold back the cables. If you get the right angle, you should not have to force anything. If all the seals in good, then no engine compartment smells, and the ambient air flow can push through a lot of heat even without the fan on, and of course if you don't want heat, close the valve and dampers as needed.

[Conserv]

4 hours ago, roadhog0 said:

Not that I know of. Most of us think the heater in these cars is pretty darn good! Ask our burning right foot

 

+1

 

When the temperature is below 15 degrees, the wind is blowing strong, and it's snowing like the dickens, you may wish the fan was a bit stronger to help keep the wiper blades from freezing solid.  But if you don't see yourself driving in those conditions, restore the heater to its stock condition...

 

And, oh yeah, headlight washers and wipers might also be nice under those conditions...

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

 

[2002newb]

Tore the whole thing apart this afternoon, and the foam that seals came apart with just a little water, and i understand why the fan was making the grinding noise upon start up - I am sure that the bearings are shot on it. Plenty of movement in the shaft and it doesn't turn very easily, so off it goes to a shop that rebuilds them if there isn't an easy replacement to be found. 

 

 

There was plenty of coolant still in the core when it got flushed so hopefully it isn't in need of repair. Think I should reinforce the heater valve while it is apart - there was one break on the support that holds it in place.

 

Edited June 27, 2016 by 2002newb

[rapandi]

4 hours ago, Conserv said:

 

 

Damn! Boy am I happy we don't get this here in Brisbane, Aus! Man, that car must be like a fridge on the inside. I am cold just looking at it.....

[roadhog0]

As far as the fan goes, there's a Porsche part # that is cheaper than the BMW one and just requires the polarity to be reversed.

[roadhog0]

But this is a deal and I will leave it here. If I had money I would snag one to keep around!

http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/WC/13607-01076109.html?utm_content=YN&utm_term=1968-1976+BMW+2002+Blower+Motor+Bosch+W0133-1615692+68-76+BMW+Blower+Motor+1973+1972&fp=pp&gbm=a&utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&gclid=CP_Zkfq3x80CFQJsfgodOeAMqg&ad=47433964212

[roadhog0]

And here's the part # from BMW for the fan.

64111356500

[Russell74Fjord]

that is a great price for the fan,,, and I had a post previously on how I attached a fan,, replacement nylon one sourced at Home Depot or Lowes, no balancing needed, lighter,

 

to add to this, I sourced a replacement nylon fan from Lowes that was for a NuTone bathroom fan, or something similar, and it was a close match. The diameter for the shaft of the motor and the diameter of the fan within the heater box. I did sand down the inside of the heater box where the fan rotates just a little for clearance.

 

I took the motor which I had removed the metal fan from and the plastic that held it on to the machine shop where they reverse threaded it (reverse of the fan rotation) and then I could bolt the fan on, top and bottom nuts, and also just some JN weld to really insure nothing would rattle loose. The machine shop cut a groove on the end of the shaft in order to hold it steady with a screwdriver while they threaded it (neat trick).

 

Some of the early fans just had a set screw. And if you are gentle with them, and don't bend the blades or move the balancing clips, that can work too.

Edited June 28, 2016 by Russell74Fjord
added info

[pklym]

I had a helluva time trying to get fan blades on a motor without them, I ended up breaking down and buying a new fan with blades attached, wish I had done it from the get go