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(edited)

Here is one for all you technical minded 02ers:

 

Electric water pump. To simplify the process and bypass all pulse adjustment, electronic management and etc, can we just:

 

1) Remove the fin from current mechanical pump.

2) Machine or shave the current pump by removing spindle and pulley and install a "block off plate" or just get rid of the current pump and install block off plate.

3) Install EWP after the radiator outlet (or anywhere on supply line to the engine block).

4) Run the EWP constantly.

5) Keep the thermostat setup the way it is since the EWP is constantly running (deleting it would obviously require some sort of EWP management system).

 

 

Has anyone made a block off plate or any company selling it?

 

Cheers

Edited by Driv3r

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Their was some discussion of this a few years back but I don't think anyone got down to doing it. A  block of plate could easily be fabricated out of 1/4" aluminum using the gasket as a pattern that would leave you with a straight belt  to the alternator so you might have to modify the tentioner bracket for it 

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You need to add a flow stream from the waterpump to the front of the block.  That is the main coolant flow into the engine.  The diagram now shows only flow thru the head.

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Yes the cooling diagram is incomplete, just wanted to show the where about of EWP. Trying to establish if suggested steps are possible.

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47 minutes ago, jimk said:

flow stream from the waterpump to the front of the block

And what direction will coolant in that stream flow and how is flow induced in that stream?

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Simply, trying to show where I suggest the EWP could be fitted. Either at the bottom of the radiator attached to the outlet hose or off the outlet of stock pump. The rest of the diagram is just an indication of what's where (engine block, radiator etc).

 

EWP flows the coolest the same way and direction as the stock mechanical pump as suggested in the steps mentioned. 

 

Cheers

 

 

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If you are going to run a EWP you can leave the thermostat but you will need to alter the plumbing quite a bit.  The stock BMW pump circulates the water through the engine even when the water is cold and the T-stat is closed to the radiator.  You would need to install the EWP at the T-stat in the same location as the current water pump.  You could do this by using a much shorter lower radiator hose and much longer hose to the upper water T at the head.  You would also need to plumb the water tube that runs up the left side of the engine to the INLET side of the EWP so you would have some water flow through your heater.  You can easily remove the impeller from the stock pump and use it as an Idler for your fan belt (are you going to just use an electric fan?)  and hook the EWP outlet to the stock pump.  Building a block off plate for the stock pump would not be all the difficult either.  It would be much easier to run the EWP using a control system that monitors temp and just leave all of the T-state plumbing off the car. 

 

I have used a few of the Davies-Craig EWPs on race cars where there was a space problem or where the vintage engine driven water pump would not move enough water at low speeds to keep it cool (ie old Stutz race car being driven in a parade)  They have a very good pump control unit that varies the pump speed depending on temperature. The pumps have been absolutely trouble free. 

 

Packaging this all inside the 2002 engine bay is not going to be easy.  the stock water pump does a great job and it is inexpensive (compared to a EWP).  I have thought about using one on a turbo project where I need the space in front of the engine for the intercooler and I was going to put the water radiators in the rear fenders (like the Group 5 CSLs) in this case I could put the EWP in the back closer to the radiators and save the engine bay space.   

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(edited)
9 hours ago, Preyupy said:

Packaging this all inside the 2002 engine bay is not going to be easy.  the stock water pump does a great job and it is inexpensive (compared to a EWP).  I have thought about using one on a turbo project where I need the space in front of the engine for the intercooler and I was going to put the water radiators in the rear fenders (like the Group 5 CSLs) in this case I could put the EWP in the back closer to the radiators and save the engine bay space.   

 

This is my scenario. I need to open up some space for thermo fan. I was hoping there won't be a need to run Craig Davis control unit that pulsates the EWP since it would  be running at constant max speed. In this case I could just replace the stock pump with EWP at the same hose location and flow direction and keep everything else as they are. Basically thought of it as only changing what powers the impeller inside the pump which in theory is like keeping the stock pump and connecting the pulley to a battery powered belt. 

 

But if as you say using the control unit make everything easier then I will look into it. 

 

Cheers

Edited by Driv3r

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The problem with using the  stock T-stat with a EWP is that you can't just put the pump at the bottom of the radiator.  When the T-stat is closed there is no flow through the radiator at all.  The hose coming from the water "T" at the top of the head to the T-stat allows the water to flow from the head>through the T-stat>into the pump>through the engine and back out the "T".  When it starts to get warm the T-stat starts to open up to allow water to come from the radiator and at the same time starts to close the passage from the water "T".  When the engine is at full running temp the T-stat completely closes the passage from the "T" and fully opens from the radiator.  The water coming from the heater into the fitting on the left side of the water pump ALWAYS is open to the inlet side of the pump so you can get some water flow through the heater core. 

 

With a EWP controller you can get rid of a TON of plumbing and just circulate the water through everything all the time, no T-stat etc.  you will still need to run the heater hose to the inlet side of the pump if you want the heater to work. 

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An understanding of the BMW cooling circuit design is very helpful before dreaming of a convoluted idea and wanting others to develop a solution.  Shown so far does not demonstrate any understanding of the cooling system.

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3 hours ago, Preyupy said:

ith a EWP controller you can get rid of a TON of plumbing and just circulate the water through everything all the time, no T-stat etc.  you will still need to run the heater hose to the inlet side of the pump if you want the heater to work. 

 

Thank you, this is the answer I was looking for. I have a Haltech Platinum Sport 1000 and it has the ability to manage the Electric Water Pump (On/Off or PWM Speed Controlled). Much appreciated.

 

2 hours ago, jimk said:

An understanding of the BMW cooling circuit design is very helpful before dreaming of a convoluted idea and wanting others to develop a solution.  Shown so far does not demonstrate any understanding of the cooling system.

 

Thanks for the positive contribution.

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Honestly, for a fan, I would...  find a different fan.  Re- engineering the water pump drive's a LOT of work.

Stuffing a 1982 Mazda 626 fan in front of the radiator involves drilling 4 holes.  Or 8, if you run 2 of them.

 

Not that the electric water and oil pumps aren't absurdly cool CONCEPTS, it's just that

the engineering to do them is not trivial at all.

 

Not positive, either

 

t

 

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5 minutes ago, TobyB said:

Honestly, for a fan, I would...  find a different fan.  Re- engineering the water pump drive's a LOT of work.

Stuffing a 1982 Mazda 626 fan in front of the radiator involves drilling 4 holes.  Or 8, if you run 2 of them.

 

Not that the electric water and oil pumps aren't absurdly cool CONCEPTS, it's just that

the engineering to do them is not trivial at all.

 

Not positive, either

 

t

 

 

100% with you but intercooler and oil cooler has already taken that space leaving me with 50mm for bir radiator and fan! Getting rid of the water pump is the easiest way.  Cheers

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Ah.  Well, then, NOW I see the problem!

 

At that point, go whole- hog, ditch the thermostat, and go fully electric.

You'll need to make a nipple to hook to the timing chain case, and then it's just plumbing.

And if you're intercooling, you're already an expert at that.

 

You CAN stuff the oil cooler somewhere else, if you need. 

My race car has it behind the passenger's headlight.  It's not too hard

to get airflow to it, there, if you duct it so the wheel can't throw crap into it.

There's positive pressure in the nose, and negative in the wheel well.

 

The intercooler's tougher.

 

t

 

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