johnlorio

Webber 40 DCOE throttlr

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I've purchased a new engine for my 1600 rebuild.  It came with dual Webber 40 DCOE side drafts and the top mounted linkage installed.  What does one need to make the connection to the accelerator pedal rod and the linkage?  Ireland is rather vague about this and mentions a cable.  What have others done?

 

Thanks!!

 

John

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I would suggest pictures because there are a few different types of linkage designs as well as we would have no idea which one you have and what parts you need to make it work.  You are being a little vague about it as well...lol.  

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Yeah, you'll need a cable, and you'll need a bracket of some sort that holds end of the cable housing at the brake booster  holder frame or whatever it's called.  You could use a metal strap, bent 90 degrees with a hole drilled in it for the cable housing end, and a slot that fits over a booster fram bolt.  Then the inner cable itself will go down to the factory linkage arm that comes from the pedal box. 

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You can also make a bellcrank arrangement from stock downdraft parts.

Not that there's anything wrong with a cable...

 

t

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Subscribed... I'm curious about your setup and how you're going to make it work. Is it the top mount Rod style or cable style?

 

When I replaced my stock motor mounts on my car with Urethane, there was an additional bracket bolted to the block-to-mount that looks made for some type of cable pull/stop function. No clue what for... maybe a choke cable?? Lord knows what's been where at what point and why with my car. But, it puts the cable-stop point at about right where I'm going to assume will be centered between two carbs, right next to the brake booster. I ended up completely removing the bracket, as it wasn't being used by anything before, and I don't see any purpose in using it moving forward. I'd be curious if someone knows what it is, or what it's for.  

 

I don't have my car together or running yet, but My 74 will have the 'Rod style' linkage, and has the factory threaded pull-rod for throttle actuation, and I was able to modify the rear-ward arm of the linkage to fit the stock pull-rod. I'm hoping that it has enough travel to function well. Let me know if you'd like some photos and I can take/post them. 

 

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The redline/weber top mount linkage is a cable pull mounted on the aft carb. The carbs have a center sync linkage. You will need to figure out a way to fix the outer cable sheath at the accelerator pedal end. Then you will need to find a way to fix the free end of the cable to the accelerator arm. You can use a banjo bolt similar to those found on a bicycle brake. A couple of concerns. Place the sheath mount in a way that you have minimal deflection of the cable when the accelerator is moved. Adjust the cable for WOT, or you will find when romping on the accelerator the cable might slip from the banjo bolt or the accelerator arm may start to strip from the hook that goes through the pedal box. 

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i'll be tackling this over the weekend.  I have the linkage interconnect between the two carbs, but need to fab mounting for the rod

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Hey, you can just bend the stock linkage rod to reach the top mounted linkage lever, I have on both my cars... just make sure you bend it to clear the transmission bell housing throughout it's travel. You will also need to change the position of the pedal linkage lever, in order to reach the rod, after you get it bent just right. When setting it all up, make sure your pedal is all the way at the top of its travel, and make sure you get WOT.  It isn't hard, just takes a bit to get it all just right... Its tight, but it works, and its free.

 

 

039E61E9-0BCE-438A-AA63-2F4B30A29196.jpg

 

0B072E19-8FBB-47EC-9445-D8FE28A58883.jpg

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Yup, that's also my plan as well. I had to drill the linkage arm slightly to fit the stock hardware. Easy peasy. eb21c3e959f3609d1901441356b13dcb.jpg

e8b94fcb815e23a2e3248825964bed01.jpg

And this is the mystery cable bracket. Dunno what to do with this thing.

37e08ca18069e6c37089c9edc407bec1.jpg

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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double post. Sorry guys!

Edited by 2002Scoob
doubled up

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That bracket is for the kick down cable from an automatic transmission.. ?!  Your car was an automatic originally, or the motor is from an automatic..

Edited by eurotrash

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Yup. The car was originally an auto, good to know what it's from! :) one of the many inconsistencies I've run into with my car after purchase. The block is original thou, and that just means I have extra room for a 5 speed :)

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1 hour ago, eurotrash said:

Hey, you can just bend the stock linkage rod to reach the top mounted linkage lever, I have on both my cars... just make sure you bend it to clear the transmission bell housing throughout it's travel. You will also need to change the position of the pedal linkage lever, in order to reach the rod, after you get it bent just right. When setting it all up, make sure your pedal is all the way at the top of its travel, and make sure you get WOT.  It isn't hard, just takes a bit to get it all just right... Its tight, but it works, and its free.

 

 

039E61E9-0BCE-438A-AA63-2F4B30A29196.jpg

 

0B072E19-8FBB-47EC-9445-D8FE28A58883.jpg

 

This probably works for the 'rod style' linkage like you got there.  This one: http://www.iemotorsport.com/bmw/2002-fuel-intake/M10DCOE.html

 

 If he has the top mount 'cable style,' then a rod isn't going to work so well.  http://www.iemotorsport.com/bmw/2002-fuel-intake/linkage.html  

Edited by KFunk

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Yea! Thanks for the help I'm uploading pics of my linkage. I'll try the original rod trick

image.jpeg

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