markmac

Trailer Size for an o2

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Starting to look around for a trailer for my o2.  For those that have race cars (or non-race cars) that you transport with a trailer, what are you using - size, style etc.,  Plan on initially using my LR3 to tow, given the car is only 1800-1900lbs I believe I have the tow capacity (assuming not having the mack-daddy of trailers).  Tx

 

http://www.alpinabmw2002.com

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If I had the money I would buy aluminum and if I had both money and space I would buy enclosed, but what I bought is a 18-foot open deck Dively Econo-trailer. That worked for me as I could pick it up directly from the manufacturer in PA. I like open deck as I can work on the car from under the trailer. One thing to keep in mind is door clearance--if it is tight you may want removable trailer fenders, particularly if the car is lowered. My car (~ 2,000 lb) is pretty close to the ground--3.75" clearance from front subframe center--but I can still get in and out with the Dively fixed fenders. I've had the trailer over 10 years now, works fine for my purposes.

 

ET184B-102
18 ft. Runways
24 ft. Total Length
4 Wheel Brakes
Curb Weight 1551 lbs.

 

Best, Fred

1995 Chevy K2500 tow vehicle with GM HT383E stroker engine

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Much key info missing from your question. 

 

What is the trailer for? 

What else will you carry? 

Is security a concern? 

Room for trailer storage? 

 

I have :

18ft open aluminum

18ft enclosed

26ft enclosed.

 

2002 fits in all of them,  but they are different tools for different jobs. 

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With the 2002 you can get by with a pretty small trailer. I've moved a good number of them around on an old 16' tandem axle trailer. Love it! For me, a big portion of the equation is where the axles are located on the trailer. Axles too far back will give LOTS of tongue weight, which on a smaller rig like an LR3 will be absolutely no fun! On a bigger truck (3/4 ton Chevies) it isn't as big of a deal.

 

Assuming you want to haul just the 2002, or 2002 size cars, I would go for as small of a trailer as you can fit a 2002 with a low tongue weight.

 

Also, be sure to get a good brake controller! That's very important in my eyes. A good one versus a cheap one is not that big of a price jump. After working in the trailer industry, I personally recommend the Tekonsha Prodigy 

 

Here is an example of what you would be plenty fine with.
http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/fod/5612563528.html

 

10982360_10207081383819200_5051118300264

11053907_10206569997594864_4198384661636

20160214_141845.jpg

 

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Don't get  a trailer.  Then you start hauling all SORTS of junk home...

 

I can throw a tape on mine- it was built to haul the race car.  Single axle,

which saves on weight and on drag, but brakes, which saves on Jaws-of-Life extractions.

Steel, but weighs only about #700.  Currently has a Pro3 car sitting on it.

Tilts, to make loading all that junk home that much easier.

Winch, to make it seem like it's going to be all fluffy clouds and unicorns.

Until you try to tie things down...

 

t

IMG_6982.JPG

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+1 on the prodigy controller.  All have used.

 

Btw, this is too small!  ;-)

 

20160614_203619.jpg

 

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The trailer would be/is for my Alpina Gr. 2 car.  Initially, I just need to get the car down to Monterey in August (very unlikely it will be running then), really I just need to get it from the Bay Area, to legends and then later in the weekend back home.  At this point very likely that I will rent "something" unless I find a smoking good deal (and there are plenty of those out there).  I believe the hitch on my LR has a tongue capacity of 770lbs.  So for now something that is small enough to hold the car and easy to maneuver.

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What's the tow rating for a Land Leaker?  I towed for a decade with a Montero, which in the US had a rating of 2000lbs, but in Europe was rated much higher.

With trailer brakes, it was completely manageable.  Better, in fact, than the F150 I use now, despite the pickup's 6000 lb rating.

 

+1 on the Tekonsha Prodigy.  You have to learn how to set it up, and then it really does just work.

 

t

 

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I like the open deck trailers. It makes strapping the car down easier. 

 

John

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1650 lb for an "unbraked" trailer, 7700lbs for a trailer with overrun brakes.

 

Love my LR by the way, 160k and still ticking strong (it did leak though - sunroof drain tubes, easy fix)

 

http://www.alpinabmw2002.com

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I started out racing with a borrowed single axle trailer that had no brakes.  I towed it with a 84 Mitsubishi built Dodge with a turbo diesel engine.  I then got a 16' enclosed trailer that was towed by a 93 dodge Dakota powered by a 3.9 liter V6.

Now I have a 22' enclosed trailer towed by a 03 Dodge powered by a 5.9 liter diesel.

Get what you can afford and work up from there.

My 16' enclosed is for sale by the way.  $3,500:00   G

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...hmmm, Gordon, that's tempting...

 

Measured:  12'4" long, with a 5' tongue: the front overhangs the 

channels that carry the wheels, and the tie- downs are on the tongue,

after the tilt break.

it's 66" wide, to fit an axle that's under 8' max.  If I did it again, I'd go wider.

But at the time, I had to get it through a very narrow garage door that then ran through

a hallway that wasn't much wider.

 

t

 

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I started with open trailer.  18', then went smaller with the car hanging off he end.  Good locally,  bad long distance.  In the end I ended up with a 20ft enclosed trailer with a bunch fun additions. Yes,  the car is short,  but you will always need room for stuff.  I just put mine up for sale today.  

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/tro/5643849646.html

 

Steve K. 

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Since you have a Rover.. you could build something like this :)

 

1426459673567

 

looks completely safe... not

 

Ed Z

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34 minutes ago, zinz said:

looks completely safe... not

Even without cross bracing on the stilts!

Edited by jimk

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