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Making Pop-Out Windows Stay Out


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On the black plastic knobs there is a set screw that you can tighten down, though I've never had luck with it...... I might have to try Tom's work around here, even though I do love my tennis balls!

-Nathan
'76 2002 in Malaga (110k Original, 2nd Owner, sat for 20 years and now a toy)
'86 Chevy K20 (6.2 Turbo Diesel build) & '46 Chevy 2 Ton Dump Truck
'74 Suzuki TS185, '68 BSA A65 Lightning (garage find), '74 BMW R90S US Spec #2

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yes, that set screw keeps the knob from vibrating loose and falling out the window.

It is not meant to be tightened down all the way, but just enough to protrude into that recess in the hinge bolt.

The problem is, the screw bottoms out on the fat part of that bolt, before the bottom of the knob reaches the hinge.

That little screw landing on the bolt's shoulder is trying to do all the work.

In order to have room to add a washer under the knob, you extend the skinny bit of the bolt towards the threaded end.

Otherwise, the little screw bottoms out on that end, before there is enough space for the washer.

 

Pete and Repeat went out in a boat.

Pete fell in.  Who was left?

     

 

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8 hours ago, '76Mintgrun'02 said:

 

 

Pete and Repeat went out in a boat.

Pete fell in.  Who was left?

Lol- my dear departed father in law told this version many times:

Pete and Repeat were sitting on a fence.

Pete fell off. Who was left?

 

Another neat solution- thanks for sharing!

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Jim Gerock

 

Riviera 69 2002 built 5/30/69 "Oscar"

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  • 1 year later...
  • 2 years later...

Got here from Tom's link in the new thread...  But while I was reading it, it occurred to me what the real issue / solution is; the latch needs to go just past the toggle position- so that the mechanism is 'locked' open and not relying on friction to support the load.  Then the friction from the knob would keep it in the locked position and the locked position would be able to support the load from the wind pushing on the window.

 

First cup of coffee, too.  :)

Dave.

'76, totally stock. Completely.

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18 minutes ago, irdave said:

Got here from Tom's link in the new thread...  But while I was reading it, it occurred to me what the real issue / solution is; the latch needs to go just past the toggle position- so that the mechanism is 'locked' open and not relying on friction to support the load.  Then the friction from the knob would keep it in the locked position and the locked position would be able to support the load from the wind pushing on the window.

 

First cup of coffee, too.  :)

I'm not convinced the latch is "overcentered" while open.  I have a black plastic (newer-style) knob on the passenger side and a chrome (older-style) knob on the passenger side.  I can get a little more torque on the chrome knob.  When I go for a drive, the passenger window stays open and the driver's side closes.  There's definitely a friction component to it unless there's a fore-aft adjustment that changes the geometry.  The mount to the C-Pillar is slotted... maybe there's a good reason.

 

I made a quick prototype this morning relying on friction.  I outlined it in the other window thread.

 

Tim Dennison

'72 BMW 2002 tii - Malaga,  '02 BMW Z3 Coupe Sterling Gray,  '09 BMW 650i - Carbon Black,  '15 BMW 228i Estoril Blue,  '19 BMW Z4 30 - San Francisco Red

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47 minutes ago, NYNick said:

And here I'm struggling with what type of rope to attach to my wine corks so I don't lose them while they're not in use....?

 

That's ok.  Got in the car this morning, looked at the latch and thought how the hell am I going to get that past the toggle point...  Maybe needed more than one cup of coffee... 

  • Haha 1

Dave.

'76, totally stock. Completely.

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