2002Scoob

GD Motorsport 5 Speed Shifter. Anyone know anything about it?

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I'm piecing together cool bits and pieces for next winter's hopeful 5 Speed project, and have the opportunity to pick up this nice looking piece of kit. I think it look legit...

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But, I can't find any other information about it or the company. Anyone know anything about this and if it's worth a go?

-J

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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There has been a number of Eastern European types knocking off the CAE shifter.  This is one of those.  They tend to change their name frequently whenever they run into "bad press".  I have seen a number of them have issues ranging from minor to systemic. 

 

In terms of "performance vs streetable vs budget" 

Level1: rubber motor and trans mounts: normal shifter/short oem shifter/uuc shifter (shifter supported by transmission)$

Level2: urethane motor and trans mounts: Bimmerworld shifter, AKG shifter (shifter supported by transmission tunnel)$$

Level3: urethane motor and trans mounts: CAE shifter (shifter supported by transmission and is spring-loaded, etc.)$$$$

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...and in order of transmission longevity, from shortest to longest:

 

3- not really healthy at all for any synchro'd transmission.  However, extends the life of your dog- rings significantly, especially if you don't shift 'em 'authoritatively' on your own, as in, you don't slam the box.  Which you are supposed to do.  Stupid- high fork pressures on a synchro'ed box.

 

2- still pretty hard on the stock box.  It's very hard to feel the 'dwell' point that gives synchros time to match revs inside the box.  If you're

good at heel- toe and always shift accurately, it might be ok.  High fork pressures.  The PRO3 guys put in a bunch of AKG shifters-

and then, after a round of transmission replacements, went back to #1.  Some still use them.  Last I looked.  The 3-4 fork in the

260 is aluminum, too, so that just made things worse.

 

1- a better idea.  you can feel what's going on in the box, you can shift it with 2 fingers, and you can tell when the next gear's synched to allow the collar to slide over the gear.  Everyone has a slightly different technique and preference, so don't be afraid to experiment.

 

You're not saving that much time with shifts, unless you go to a dog box... or a sequential dog box.

 

t

 

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Looks like it is bolted directly to the trans tunnel with no rubber isolating the transmission noise, and there is going to be a lot of it.  The engine and transmission will move on the rubber mounts and the shifter will be bolted to the chassis.  That Knob is going to move around a lot.

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...And with how long that thing looks, when you lift in 2nd it will knock you in the forearm and make you turn left.

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And while it looks cool, it won't remove much slop.  The majority of slop is in the linkage and coupler.

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