engine and drivetrain help - what is this and what is missing....

[06s2000]

I picked up my 76 2002 about a month ago.  I ended up taking off the intake manifold to paint it and found some interesting repairs under it..  Also I found what looks to be maybe a missing egr valve???   If anyone could point me in the right direction it would be much appreciated. 

[OriginalOwner]

Top one, no idea.

 

Bottom one, I'm thinking the coolant return from the heater to the water pump ..... nice Redneck Engineering job !!

 

Cheers,

 

Carl

 

[06s2000]

5 minutes ago, OriginalOwner said:

Top one, no idea.

 

Bottom one, I'm thinking the coolant return from the heater to the water pump ..... nice Redneck Engineering job !!

 

Cheers,

 

Carl

 

This stuff drives me nutts.   I am way to ocd for this crap....  Main reason why my 356 is still taken apart...  I also found out the pipe the choke bypass since I have a weber carb lol. 

[2002Scoob]

I will say, that's a pretty ghetto way to do a bypass hose, haha. Scary what some people deem as acceptable repairs.

[2002Scoob]

nice, shiny new alternator thou!

 

[Mark92131]

Top one is your diverter valve for your smog pump, clearly disconnected.  

 

 

 

Edited June 8, 2016 by Mark92131

[06s2000]

5 minutes ago, 2002Scoob said:

nice, shiny new alternator thou!

 

That was first when I purchased it.  "old battery does not hold charge".  Bought the car in north phx, went right to auto zone,  drove it 50 minutes to my house died in the driveway =D 

[06s2000]

1 minute ago, Mark92131 said:

Top one is your diverter valve for your smog pump, clearly disconnected.  

 

 

 

would that affect the idle?

[06s2000]

29 minutes ago, Mark92131 said:

Top one is your diverter valve for your smog pump, clearly disconnected.  

 

 

 

So I passed emissions in Arizona with that off, if I take the rest of the stuff off will it effect my emissions?  or is it non operational right now?

[Mark92131]

25 minutes ago, 06s2000 said:

would that affect the idle?

 

It could, if the previous owner didn't properly plug all the vacuum ports when it was disconnected.  You might want to look into why the previous owner needed to bypass the water jacket in the stock intake manifold, (Dual Carb setup?, Cannon/Lynx Manifold?) in Picture #1.  I would consider removing all the smog equipment, it will completely transform the car.  Here's a write-up on getting that done.

 

Smog removal

 

1. Buy a used early exhaust manifold, (no emission ports), or a Tii manifold or a non-thermal reactor manifold and plug the emission ports, or headers, or the IE Shorty Header.

2. Pull the Thermal reactor (smog manifold) off, 8 nuts, plus the bracket to the passenger-side engine mount, disconnect the hoses to the EGR filter (rear) and Check valve (front), toss in neighbors pool, (actually someone may need it because they crack).

3. Remove your alternator and battery, you will need clearance for the EGR filter and smog pump.

4. Unbolt the EGR filter from the intake manifold (2 bolts), remove the hoses (one is connected to the intake manifold, the other to the divertor), and vacuum lines from the EGR Valve.  Slide the EGR Valve and filter into the space vacated by the alternator to remove.

5. Buy the EGR blocking plate on the FAQ store, to plug the hole in the intake manifold (or use one of those rubber expanding plugs)

6. Remove the Dashpot for the Solex carb from the intake manifold, if it is still there, if you have a Weber carb, it is probably gone

7. Remove the T1 Temperature switch between 3 & 4 on the intake manifold (keep, they are expensive)

8. Remove the Diverter Valve (between the EGR Valve and the Pump), 3 hoses and bracket

9. Remove the Air pump, belt, and mounting brackets, (under the battery tray), it takes some wiggling to get it past the sway bar.

10. Replace the Alternator and battery (leave battery disconnected for now)

11. Remove all the smog components attached to the firewall (3 electro-magnetic valves (red, white, black), 2 relays, (speed & choke), the Control valve (round with 3 vacuum lines), the EGR Relay (looks like an aluminum cigarette pack).

12. Plug the 3 open ports on the intake manifold from unplugging the smog stuff.

13. Run a single vacuum line from the carb port above the port on the intake manifold, (passenger side of the carb) to the advance port on the distributor, plug the retard port on the distributor, (underneath).

14. If you have an electric choke or idle jet shut-off circuit, it might be powered off of the emission wiring harness (blue sheath wire bundle connecting all the firewall smog components), you'll need to power those things separately to remove the smog harness (run wires off the + side of the coil)

15. To remove the smog harness, trace the blue sheath wire bundle to the fuse box, remove the screw for the fuse box and pull it up, there should be two wires connected, disconnect both of them.  The push-on connection at fuse #12 should be used to connect to the + side of the coil.  If you have a coil with an internal resistor (blue, aftermarket) run a straight wire from fuse #12 to the + side of the coil, if you have the original black coil or red, you need to harvest the resistor wire from the smog harness (still connected to the coil), or use the older external style resistor that mounts on the firewall.  Either way, trace the smog wiring harness back to the coil and remove it completely.  If you need to harvest the resistor wire on the + side of the coil connection, peel back the blue sheath to expose the clear resistor wire and remove it and then splice it into your new wire running back to the fuse box.  The only thing connected to the coil will be the wires from the distributor to the - side of the coil and your new wire from the fuse box #12 to the + side of the coil.  If you have Pertronix, those wires will also be present.

16. Reconnect the battery and start the car

17, Set the dwell and timing

18. Reset the carb to best idle using the idle jet screw, set the idle speed and enjoy.

 

Good luck,

 

 

Mark92131

[06s2000]

Just now, Mark92131 said:

 

It could, if the previous owner didn't properly plug all the vacuum ports when it was disconnected.  You might want to look into why the previous owner needed to bypass the water jacket in the stock intake manifold, (Dual Carb setup?, Cannon/Lynx Manifold?) in Picture #1.  I would consider removing all the smog equipment, it will completely transform the car.  Here's a write-up on getting that done.

 

Smog removal

 

1. Buy a used early exhaust manifold, (no emission ports), or a Tii manifold or a non-thermal reactor manifold and plug the emission ports, or headers, or the IE Shorty Header.

2. Pull the Thermal reactor (smog manifold) off, 8 nuts, plus the bracket to the passenger-side engine mount, disconnect the hoses to the EGR filter (rear) and Check valve (front), toss in neighbors pool, (actually someone may need it because they crack).

3. Remove your alternator and battery, you will need clearance for the EGR filter and smog pump.

4. Unbolt the EGR filter from the intake manifold (2 bolts), remove the hoses (one is connected to the intake manifold, the other to the divertor), and vacuum lines from the EGR Valve.  Slide the EGR Valve and filter into the space vacated by the alternator to remove.

5. Buy the EGR blocking plate on the FAQ store, to plug the hole in the intake manifold (or use one of those rubber expanding plugs)

6. Remove the Dashpot for the Solex carb from the intake manifold, if it is still there, if you have a Weber carb, it is probably gone

7. Remove the T1 Temperature switch between 3 & 4 on the intake manifold (keep, they are expensive)

8. Remove the Diverter Valve (between the EGR Valve and the Pump), 3 hoses and bracket

9. Remove the Air pump, belt, and mounting brackets, (under the battery tray), it takes some wiggling to get it past the sway bar.

10. Replace the Alternator and battery (leave battery disconnected for now)

11. Remove all the smog components attached to the firewall (3 electro-magnetic valves (red, white, black), 2 relays, (speed & choke), the Control valve (round with 3 vacuum lines), the EGR Relay (looks like an aluminum cigarette pack).

12. Plug the 3 open ports on the intake manifold from unplugging the smog stuff.

13. Run a single vacuum line from the carb port above the port on the intake manifold, (passenger side of the carb) to the advance port on the distributor, plug the retard port on the distributor, (underneath).

14. If you have an electric choke or idle jet shut-off circuit, it might be powered off of the emission wiring harness (blue sheath wire bundle connecting all the firewall smog components), you'll need to power those things separately to remove the smog harness (run wires off the + side of the coil)

15. To remove the smog harness, trace the blue sheath wire bundle to the fuse box, remove the screw for the fuse box and pull it up, there should be two wires connected, disconnect both of them.  The push-on connection at fuse #12 should be used to connect to the + side of the coil.  If you have a coil with an internal resistor (blue, aftermarket) run a straight wire from fuse #12 to the + side of the coil, if you have the original black coil or red, you need to harvest the resistor wire from the smog harness (still connected to the coil), or use the older external style resistor that mounts on the firewall.  Either way, trace the smog wiring harness back to the coil and remove it completely.  If you need to harvest the resistor wire on the + side of the coil connection, peel back the blue sheath to expose the clear resistor wire and remove it and then splice it into your new wire running back to the fuse box.  The only thing connected to the coil will be the wires from the distributor to the - side of the coil and your new wire from the fuse box #12 to the + side of the coil.  If you have Pertronix, those wires will also be present.

16. Reconnect the battery and start the car

17, Set the dwell and timing

18. Reset the carb to best idle using the idle jet screw, set the idle speed and enjoy.

 

Good luck,

 

 

Mark92131

wow, thats an amazing right up lol.    I think they pulled it for the weber they out on the car. 

Thank you so much for the information!

[TobyB]

...do you still have an air pump?

 

In Cally, you would have...

 

t

[06s2000]

1 hour ago, TobyB said:

...do you still have an air pump?

 

In Cally, you would have...

 

t

The airpump is still on, not sure if its doing anything since most the system is disconnected.  In Arizona they do not check, they just put the vacuum on the back and test the emissions from that. 

Edited June 8, 2016 by 06s2000