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Would you slap a head on it?

2002Scoob

By 2002Scoob
in BMW 2002 and other '02

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Stevenc22 Grand Master

Stevenc22

Posted
Posted (edited)

Yes i would put a head on it. Looks clean to me. 

 

here is my block after cleaning. I never scotch brighted. This block has been running good for 1.5 years now. Use an angle guage to tighten head bolts.

 

IMG_20140506_173045.jpg

Edited by Stevenc22

1976 BMW 2002 Chamonix. My first love.

1972 BMW 2002tii Polaris. My new side piece.

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roadhog0 Grand Master

roadhog0

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Posted
4 hours ago, Buckeye said:

Looks good!

follow head gasket manufactures tightening procedure and you won't have to re-torque after 600 miles.

 

Personally, I say re-torque it anyways. It's good practice and it make sure things are all A-OK. 

-Nathan
'76 2002 in Malaga (110k Original, 2nd Owner, sat for 20 years and now a toy)
'86 Chevy K20 (6.2 Turbo Diesel build) & '46 Chevy 2 Ton Dump Truck
'74 Suzuki TS185, '68 BSA A65 Lightning (garage find), '74 BMW R90S US Spec #2

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Buckeye Grand Master

Buckeye

Posted
Posted (edited)

2002Scoob said is going to use Victor Reinz head gasket. A tightening guidance should come with head gasket like this

Victor Reinz_Cylinder head gasket-1.jpgVictor Reinz_Cylinder head gasket-2.jpg

 

and here BMW Service Information on head gasket and head bolts.

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/121366-cylinder-head-oil-leak/#comment-126149

BMW cylinder head torque procedure.pdf

Edited by Buckeye

76 2002 Sienabraun

2015 BMW f10

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KFunk Grand Master

KFunk

Posted
Posted
8 hours ago, roadhog0 said:

 

Personally, I say re-torque it anyways. It's good practice and it make sure things are all A-OK. 

I agree, especially after my experience.  I'm all for following instructions, so I did it the newer reinz way properly with a reinz gasket, and 300 miles later the bolts got loose and blew out the gasket between 2 cylinders.  

I say torque it the old way, and after a couple heat cycles, retorque it.  The problem with the reinz way is there's no way to easily retorque it without starting over on the whole process.  If you did that, would completely loosening the bolts cause issues? I don't know.  If you don't retighten, then you're trusting a lot to that first torque, but things change.

 

Bring a Welder

1974 2002, 1965 Datsun L320 truck, 1981 Yamaha XS400, 1983 Yamaha RX50, 1992 Miata Miata drivetrain waiting on a Locost frame, 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser

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2002Scoob Grand Master

2002Scoob

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Posted

Went this afternoon to my builder to pick up the manifold he'd finished port matching and showed him my prepped block, to which he responded, keep working :P. Going to go at it a bit more around the water-passages and make sure. His suggestion was to go as far as stone-leveling, or at least a level block sanding starting with 120-220-400 grit. That, or take it out and have him rebuild the bottom end for me, haha. He's a perfectionist, a perfectionist who also wants my money.

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2002Scoob Grand Master

2002Scoob

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Posted (edited)
10 hours ago, Buckeye said:

2002Scoob said is going to use Victor Reinz head gasket. A tightening guidance should come with head gasket like this

Victor Reinz_Cylinder head gasket-2.jpg

 

and here BMW Service Information on head gasket and head bolts.

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/121366-cylinder-head-oil-leak/#comment-126149

BMW cylinder head torque procedure.pdf

 

I'm a bit confused with de-coding the torquing process into understandable..

 

Do I got this right?

1, tighten all bolts to 60nm +- 2nm

2. wait 15 minutes.

3. Huh?

4. prepare 5 fish-sticks. place 4 vertically, and one long-wise underneath

5. bake for 25 minutes + or- 5

 

Jesus. Nevermind. There's a key just below. Duh. Not thinking

Edited by 2002Scoob
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roadhog0 Grand Master

roadhog0

Posted
Posted
57 minutes ago, 2002Scoob said:

 

I'm a bit confused with de-coding the torquing process into understandable..

 

Do I got this right?

1, tighten all bolts to 60nm +- 2nm

2. wait 15 minutes.

3. Huh?

4. prepare 5 fish-sticks. place 4 vertically, and one long-wise underneath

5. bake for 25 minutes + or- 5

 

Jesus. Nevermind. There's a key just below. Duh. Not thinking

 

Thanks for a morning laugh! But this is what it says.

 

1. Tighten Bolts to 60nm +-2nm

2. Wait 15 minutes

3. Torque to 33* +-3*

4. Heat Cycle

5. Torque to 25* +-5*

 

This is a torque degree wheel.

emcrrb62aro_engine_rebuild_99_Jimmy.jpg

-Nathan
'76 2002 in Malaga (110k Original, 2nd Owner, sat for 20 years and now a toy)
'86 Chevy K20 (6.2 Turbo Diesel build) & '46 Chevy 2 Ton Dump Truck
'74 Suzuki TS185, '68 BSA A65 Lightning (garage find), '74 BMW R90S US Spec #2

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