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Redtail

Crank pulley timing mark off 180 degrees

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Hey guys, I was trying to set the timing on my '73tii today and ran into a bit of an issue. I'm trying to set it off the marks on the crank pulley and timing cover with my advance light, and it turns out that the marks on the pulley are 180 degrees out from where they should be - ie: the crank pulley and timing cover marks line up with the timing light lead on cylinder #3 instead of cylinder #1.

 

The car is new to me, I have not had the engine out or apart at all. Is it possible for the crank pulley to be installed at 180 degrees out of phase, or is this indicating something deeper? The car runs fine with the exception of being really rich about 5k rpm. I figured that was an injection adjustment issue.

 

Any ideas?

Thanks.

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The pulley is bolted to the hub with 4 bolts in a rectangular pattern, so can be installed 180 out.

 

There is also a mark on the hub behind the pulley (marked in yellow) that you might be able to reference.  Also note the position of the keyway.

 

I had to compare to a non-tii version when i pulled it off and marked in the wrong spot (I thought the groove in the front was the split)

 

Here's a pic

IMG_20160423_191714(1).jpg

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8 minutes ago, bmwfan said:

Maybe the distributed is off 180 degrees.

 

I was actually just thinking this myself. I'll search the archives and try to find a procedure to verify the distributor position and check back.

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I bet your cam is off 360 degrees...

 

hee

 

I like the tii bolt- on answer. 

 

If the distributor was off 90, the car wouldn't run.  I know.  I've verified that one myself, more than once.

 

On a carbed car, that would indicate that your timing mark was in the wrong place!

 

t

 

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(edited)

OK so I just timed it via the flywheel marks and can confirm the crank pulley is out 180 degrees unless there is some other funny business going on. I set the timing to the factory spec of 25 DBTDC at 2700 RPM and confirmed it is also at 32 DBTDC at 3,200+ RPM.

 

Unfortunately the factory settings make the car run worse! I think before I did anything it was set around 45-50 DBTDC. Like I said before it would run just fine on this setting below 4500-5000 RPM or so. Above that, large black clouds out the tailpipe.

Edited by Redtail

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I would confirm that number one piston is TDC , then check rotor to cap terminal alignment and position of  crank pulley mark just to know what's what. And set timing off the flywheel ball. If you have vacuum advance , be sure to plug it while timing.

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(edited)

Interesting new updates, with pictures!

 

After some investigation this morning, I am thinking the crank pulley is mounted 90 or 180 degrees out and fuel injection pump belt is off by 3 teeth. Please review the images below and let me know your opinion! And a preface of sorry for the photos - the image uploader rotated them into random orientations...

 

Position #1

In this first set the Fuel Injection Pump is set to TDC but the crank pulley is out by what looks like 120 degrees or so: 

xaqlMfY.jpg

 

The mark on the camshaft looks to be off by a link as well:

e52FRm2.jpg

 

There is no timing mark visible on the flywheel in this position

 

Position #2

In this set I have aligned the camshaft to TDC:

g1Y1B2G.jpg

 

And the fuel injection pump is off by a few degrees, and the crank pulley looks to be 180 degrees off:

Pb6kdQ5.jpg

 

In this position the line and 0 on the flywheel are visible through the flywheel inspection hole.

 

Conclusion

Whoever changed the FIP belt last time cocked it up pretty good. Belt & pump out of alignment and crank pulley installed incorrectly. Is this the only issue I'm looking at here? If the cam and flywheel marks both line up at TDC the timing chain should be in the correct position right?

Edited by Redtail

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(edited)

Yup, your cam and crank should be fine if the 0 on the flywheel is visible in the timing hole.

 

And 180 on the pulley's consistent with that.

 

Change your oil more frequently than the P/O,

 

hth

 

t

Edited by TobyB

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OK job done. adjusted the position of the FIP belt and correctly re-assembled the crank pulley. I can definitively say these 2 factors caused the problems I posted about in this thread.

 

The car runs much better now but the idle is a little low and hunts a bit. It's also still a little smoky at 6k rpm. I never drive that hard, but I'd still like to get the injection dialed in. I wonder if the PO adjusted the fuel injection to compensate for the incorrectly timed injection pump.

 

Anyway that's another story. As is the new (much lower) oil change interval for the car. I'm considering an engine flush next time I change the oil. Worked well for the cooling system.

 

Thanks for all the advice gents.

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Just to be a d!nk, while you were there, 4 more bolts and 1 or 2 nuts, and you could have changed the injector pump belt :)

 

I carried one for a couple of years in the glove box, fearing the job.... wasn't that bad.

 

And mine hunts too, until warmed up.

 

Glad you got it sorted out

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3 minutes ago, xferboy said:

Just to be a d!nk, while you were there, 4 more bolts and 1 or 2 nuts, and you could have changed the injector pump belt :)

 

The belt is pretty worn and will need changed soon no question. I'm going to put together a big order of parts for next week and replace all the belts plus a bunch of other little things. Now that I have the mystery figured out I'm 90% of the way there!

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I changed my water pump at the same time (as well as tried re-sealing up the  timing chain cover).  I don't think the pump needed changing, but since I was un-sure, and it's hard to get another engine with the same VIN, I changed it. 

 

Much easier pulling the grills and rad and working through the front.

 

Its one of those jobs that a little extra work, makes the job go faster, in my opinion anyway.

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