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Cannon 2bbl manifold questions


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

Just picked up a brand new ebay Cannon manifold ($36). I plan to use it with my current 38/38 on my '76, replacing the stock, hogged out, manifold.

I have a few questions.

It appears that Cannon's quality is less than high. the oval intake hole is off-center from the 4 carb mounting bolts. I read other's accounts of this. I guess I'll just hog out the necessary metal.

On the stock manifold, there's a starter bracket that attaches to the bottom. What's the downside of losing this bracket since the Cannon doesn't have a bolt spot? Do tii's and dual carb conversions leave out the bracket?

If I wanted to buy the water connection that bolts underneath, where would I look?

Where to get the brake vacuum threaded fitting?

I need to hook-up the distributor vacuum advance/retard, where should that connect? There's no connection like the stock manifold.

It also looks like I'll need to machine the mounting hole at #1 that is shared with the water neck. Is that soemthing for a pro shop?

Finally (for now) is it worth the effort to try and smooth all interior surfaces for better flow? Or is there something to turbulence inside there?

Thanks so much.

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Guest Anonymous

re starter bracket: 1 bbl cars did without that bracket just fine...get one from a 1 bbl car that doesn't fasten to the manifold and you'll be OK

vacuum port for dizzy: there should be one on the carb. Use it.

Cheers

Mike

PS--years ago I had a friend that used a Cannon manifold and a two barrel Holley carb (not Holley Weber) and never could get it to work right. No idle to speak of, a HUGE flat spot on acceleration, then ran like crazy. Finally gave up and reinstalled his 1 bbl Solex. This was before the 2 bbl stock '02 came out, like 1969-70 timeframe.

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Guest Anonymous

You can get the water jacket from Jam Engineering then you will have to do a bunch of fancy plumbing to get the whole thing to work right . . . here is what I remember doing

1) I cobbled together a flange on the top of the manifold with JB weld.

2) put a T in my heater return hose so I could use my water choke.

3) bought an assortment of hoses to cut and fit to plumb the whole thing together.

4) There metric threaded hole that I remember cutting out to 3/8 so I could JB weld a SAE pipe plug into.

5) Gave up on the carb vacume and bought a .008 dizzy with mechanical advance and put in a crane xr 300.

email me at traynor_1 at excite dot com and I'll send some pictures over in the next couple days.

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Guest Anonymous

it is a hell of a lot easier. BTW: on the underside of the cannon you will need to grind out some metal around the bolt holes- there is not enough clearance for the nut. My knuckles have many a scar from that little lesson.

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Guest Anonymous

Thanks for the tip, I'll have to check out the clearance underneath.

I already have a stock one that i hogged out, but its kinda rough. The Cannon looked a bit less bulky, but it needs work also. I may just have a shop clean up the casting since I only paid $36.

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Guest Anonymous

I'm blanking out on what is up front that you bolt on by the #1 cylendar(thermostat maybe?), but you will have to cut at least a washer in half to match the thickness of it to your intake manifold and then crank the nut on real tight.

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